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Thread: pepper mills - how i make them

  1. #1
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    pepper mills - how i make them

    well gang, since this had quite a few pictures, they will be posted in 3 posts (this being the first). to get started, i wanted to show the save of the very first bench that i had made. our dad used it, and abused it with his can crushing, and general taking apart of metal things. he was going to take it apart and cut it up, but i said i could use it as a portable bench for my tools while i did my turning. i guess since it wasn't a new bench, he couldn't grouse too much. in the next couple of photos, the flame birch blanks living up to their names, and the behemoth, that is how i lovingly refer to my lathe platform. the mini lathe on the end is going to one of pop's neighbors as soon as h makes up his mind. you can see in the picture of the blanks, i have already taken care of turning them to round. the next ones show how i line up the blank between the chuck and the live center, to maintain a somewhat true line. the next ones show the blank chucked up, and ready to turn, then i turn several notches to the overall outside diameter of 2.5", and the blank turned down to that diameter. the last 3 pictures show the marking of the overall height at 4", the set up for the beads at the top and bottom, and the turned beads.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 001 saved bench.jpg   002 flame birch blanks.jpg   003 behemoth ready and waiting.jpg   004 setting up the blank.jpg   005 blank ready to be turned.jpg  

    006 notches for exterior diameter.jpg   007 turned to final diameter.jpg   008 bottom marked.jpg   009 bead locations marked.jpg   010 beads turned.jpg  

    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  2. #2
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    ok, here we are in part 2 of 3. the next pictures show the lineup hole for the indent is laid out, the forstner bit (2") ready to drill, and then lined up with the blank. the next ones show the finished indent for the mill mechanism, a test fit of the mechanism, and the notches for turning the middle down to the desired 2" diameter. the next pictures show the finished middle diameter, and just because i'm me, i like to part it down a bit before i start the sanding, and the final sanding to 600 grit. the last one shows the start of the finishing process, which is a good coat of my pen finish.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 011 center for forstner bit located.jpg   012 forstner bit ready in chuck.jpg   013 lining up forstner bit.jpg   014 inset drilled.jpg   015 test fit.jpg  

    016 notches for final inside diameter.jpg   017 turned down to final inside diameter.jpg   018 start of parting before sanding.jpg   019 sanded to 600 grit.jpg   020 coat of pen finish.jpg  

    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  3. #3
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    now for the third and final part. once i have given the sanded turning a good coat of my pen finish, i buff it out for a minute or so. we see in the pictures, that a good heavy coat of hut hard (white) finish has been applied, and buffed out. the pictures now show the parted off pepper mill base, getting ready to drill the hole, and with the hole drilled. then there you have it, the finished pepper mill in flame birch. all i need do now, is to drill the pilot holes for the screws, give the screws a dab of vaseline, and the pepper mill is done.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 021 coat of hut hard finish.jpg   022 hut buffed out.jpg   023 parted off.jpg   024 ready to be drilled.jpg   025 hole drilled through.jpg  

    026 finished mill.jpg  
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

  4. #4
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    Great tutorial Dan I've been thinking about giving a pepper mill a try.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  5. #5
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    Great tutorial, Dan. I might just give this a try!
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
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  6. #6
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    Really nice Dan. That should help a lot of those wanting to make them. Well done.
    Bernie W.

    Retirement: Thats when you return from work one day
    and say, Hi, Honey, Im home forever.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.

  7. #7
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    Nice mill and tutorial Dan!! I was wondering if it wouldn't be easier to drill the core on the lathe rather than the drill press. Just wondering!
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears Combat boots

  8. #8
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    Nice tutorial, Dan. I've not done this type of mill before, but I was wondering why you drill the main cavity hole on the drill press instead of the lathe. Is there any reason not to drill that hole right after you drill the larger recess hole for the mechanism?

    Also, I noticed you're not using a tenon at the end to hold the blank. You'll get a much more secure mounting if there is a shoulder for the face of the chuck jaws to register to.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also, by having the tenon a bit smaller diameter than the rest of the blank, it will mate up with the curvature of the chuck jaws much better. As it is in the photos you showed, each chuck jaw only has two points of contact with the wood. With a smaller diameter tenon, that contact could be made with a much larger surface area.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  9. #9
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    Question - why not do the final hole on the lathe as well? - and Vaughn beat me to it

  10. #10
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    you have a point there vaughn, the next 3 will have tenons on their ends. as for the main cavity, i drilled it out exactly once on the lathe, and did not like the results when i parted off. the hole at the bottom was a bit on the ragged side after parting off. i drill the cavity on the drill press because i can set the speed a bit lower than the lowest speed on the lathe, and avoid the bit heating up.
    benedictione omnes bene

    www.burroviejowoodworking.com

    check out my etsy store, buroviejowoodworking

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