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Thread: Cracked No 7 Stanley Hand Plane........ Repair?

  1. #1
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    Cracked No 7 Stanley Hand Plane........ Repair?

    In getting ready for Garrett Hack's class this coming Sunday I was cleaning and fettling my hand planes, I decided to shine up the sides of my No 7 Stanley Jointer plane and I found this.....



    Firs thing I want to say here is that there is no possibility that this reflects badly in ANY WAY on Steve who so VERY kindly looked for, purchased and then sent me this plane, just to be crystal clear. I mean I did not find this crack until much time had passed, and I did look for a crack, as I'm sure Steve did, it was not easy to find, and if I'd not gone to town on sprucing up the plane I'd not have found it today.

    The plane works fine, as is, but as you can imagine, I'm going to fix it, OK how?

    I'm thinking some kind of silver solder or such would be the best way, what say you all?

    Cheers!
    Last edited by Stuart Ablett; 11-14-2012 at 08:46 AM.
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  2. #2
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    For the record, Stu told me about this before he posted it. These small cracks are hard to spot for sure.
    If you don't take pride in your work, life get's pretty boring.

    Rule of thumb is if you donít know what tool to buy next, then you probably donít need it yet.

  3. #3
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    Silver brazing will probably be your best bet, but it'll have to be done with care to keep from warping the sole.

    Cleaning and widening the crack will be necessary, too - make the crack into a "V" groove on both the inside and outside. A Dremel tool or die grinder would probably be the best tool for that.

    If it were here, I'd just go find another plane, but since #7 Stanleys aren't all that common in Tokyo, attempting your repair will be practical.

    Good Luck!
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim DeLaney View Post
    Silver brazing will probably be your best bet, but it'll have to be done with care to keep from warping the sole.

    Cleaning and widening the crack will be necessary, too - make the crack into a "V" groove on both the inside and outside. A Dremel tool or die grinder would probably be the best tool for that.

    If it were here, I'd just go find another plane, but since #7 Stanleys aren't all that common in Tokyo, attempting your repair will be practical.

    Good Luck!
    Yeah Jim, you and I are basically on the same page I think

    That being said, in looking around the net I found >> this page << if you look at the #6 post by Diesel_Pusher he makes a good point about silver brazing, like how the carbide tips of our sawblades are attached, makes me wonder about that...?

    I have an old shoddy block plane that I'll practice on.

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
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    Stu, the silver brazing will be plenty strong enough, and will require less heat than any other (effective) method. Cleaning and prep must be meticulous for it to work, though.

    Oh, one other - minor - thing: you're gonna lose any japanning on that side, so plan on having to re-do that, too.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim DeLaney View Post
    Stu, the silver brazing will be plenty strong enough, and will require less heat than any other (effective) method. Cleaning and prep must be meticulous for it to work, though.

    Oh, one other - minor - thing: you're gonna lose any japanning on that side, so plan on having to re-do that, too.
    Yep, that's the plan, I'll redo the whole plane, spruce it up nicely, even give it an electrolysis dip before anything else, that will clean the heck out of it.

    I think that my buddy Sugita san has a #7 that he is bringing along, so I'll leave my cracked one at home.

    Any links to redoing the Japanning? I usually just paint them, but maybe I should try the Japanning....?

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  7. #7
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    Japanning:
    http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pla.../japanning.htm - linked via http://www.rexmill.com/ (Hand Planes 101)
    http://shootingboard.net/shop/hand-tools/japanning/

    Silver Soldering:

    Might well be your best best alright. It will flow pretty well (compared to brazing with kinda doesn't much), so I'd be cautious opening up the crack to much or it might be a pain to fill.
    To avoid warping I might consider heating it up slow in an oven to say 450-500F before doing it. Then make sure to heat up the surrounding area even more sorta generally.

    Good luck on this one

  8. #8
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    Ryan's suggestion to pre-heat is a very good one. Do that if you can.

    As for re-japanning - I use paint. Terry Hatfield (remember him?) put me on to a commercial-grade paint called "MRO," from Seymour paints, several years ago and I've been using it ever since. It's sort of a 'semi-gloss' enamel that covers beautifully, doesn't chip easily, and has nearly the same 'soft gloss' appearance as japanning. I've used it on at least a dozen of my planes since then, with consistently good results.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim DeLaney View Post
    As for re-japanning - I use paint. Terry Hatfield (remember him?) put me on to a commercial-grade paint called "MRO," from Seymour paints, several years ago and I've been using it ever since. It's sort of a 'semi-gloss' enamel that covers beautifully, doesn't chip easily, and has nearly the same 'soft gloss' appearance as japanning. I've used it on at least a dozen of my planes since then, with consistently good results.
    I'd like to try actual japaning sometime, but yeah it looks exceedingly tedious so haven't actually ever gotten around to trying it. A lot of people seem to stick with various high quality enamels. Do make sure to carefully mask the parts you don't want covered.

  10. #10
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    Stu, couple of comments. First if you can silver braze, more power to you. I myself wouldn't try, but I do not have the metal skills you do. Second, one thing to consider is whether or not the plane needs to be fixed. A small hairline crack may not worsen, and the plane may be fine as is. I have a lovely 5 1/4 that I really like. Only after I cleaned it up did I find a small hairline in one cheek. It runs horizontally. I use the plane regularly and it's never been a problem. Last, if you do opt to braze it, I would suggest before heating to first clamp the sole of the plane to a rigid steel plate, to minimize risk of warping - I have no direct experience, but have read this. Jim D's advice about paint sounds excellent. There's also a specific spray paint sold at auto parts stores, whose name I forget, but have at home, if you want it. Last, pardon my ignorance, and dumb humor, but do they have japanning in Japan?
    If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate.

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