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Thread: "D" Handled Tool Available Anywhere ?

  1. #1
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    "D" Handled Tool Available Anywhere ?

    I have my captured hollowing system made but dont have the "D" handled tool . Are there any available anywhere..?? My captured hollowing system bars are made from 1" tubular steel. I just need the hollowing tool like guys make with the "D" handle. Any available already made anywhere?? I dont have access to a welder..

    EDIT! I see Jamieson has a D Boring Bar Assembly for $169 Still ANY ideas appreciated Please !!!!
    Last edited by Mike Turner; 12-01-2012 at 03:39 AM.

  2. #2
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    As far as I know, Jamieson is the only manufacturer selling the D handle by itself, but the folks at Monster Lathe Tools might be willing to make and sell one without the rear captured rest. (No idea what the price would be, but you can call or email them to find out.) Whoever you buy one from, you might want to check first to be sure it'll fit the space between the 1" bars on the captured rest you've already made.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  3. #3
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    Ive made it adjustable at this point but can lock it down, maybe even weld it (if or when I get access to a welder) once I get the D handle tool plus there is another thing or two I may do to it..

  4. #4
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    Adjustable is good. That way you can change it if you tools change.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  5. #5
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    I made my own large hollowing rig with a solid bar 1 1/4" round, square tube steel etc... then took it down to a welding shop and had them do the welding - cost was $35.00 as i remember.
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  6. #6
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    Thanks Dan, I am making one for use on a Jet 1642. I have never used one so I am sort of building blind here. Could you give me some ball park measurements on the "D" handle and the boring ball length used or whatever you did will be helpful??? Mine will be from 3/4". May build a bigger,beefier one once I make this one Thanks again, Mike

  7. #7
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    Mike ill take pictures tomm with measurements and post
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  8. #8
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    Mike - there are pictures below of the home made rig for large hollowing that I made. I made it the way I wanted and decided against the ones on the market for various reasons. Some had inferior parts - poor design - cost of them or cost of shipping etc......lots of good reasons to just make your own and you can build it stout and better then whats selling - and best of all much much cheaper and thats using quality parts.

    Below are pictures of the D-arm and stand - I have it taken apart at the moment to redesign the laser holding cradle so .... I do my best to tell you the measurements - boring bar is 1 1/4" diameter - sides are 10" and the one pc opposite the boring bar is 3' 2" - up right pc for laser is 17" with a smaller pipe that slides internally with knobs to tighten it up so i can raise it up or lower it - the pc that holds the laser and sticks out to the tip is 4' - In the end of the 1 1/4" bar is a 3/4" hole with 2 set screws to hold the tip in (in the pic are flat screws but i usually have other that counter sink) - Reason is I have 2 different angle ends that accept the same cutters and with these two I can hollow any vessel - I do not need multiple cutting tips etc.....the 2 will accomplish any angle and I have gone as far as 2' 4" deep - at that depth you will start to get some vibration so I am assuming that at that depth your pushing the envelope if you use 15" per every 1" round rule.

    The stand is something I made also with a front wheel type base so i can pick up and move easy - or adjust my angle of attack from away from the lathe has proven to be a good thing - the D-arm sits between the 2 pc's of tube steel and with some waxing it glides very smoothly - painted with whatever junk spray paint I had laying around and called it done - its ugly ill agree but works great.


    What I do know is this - it will hollow out side or end grain with ease and its very safe to control - It takes a few to setup but I am not in a hurry anyway and once set its alot of fun to use.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN0280.jpg   DSCN0295.jpg   DSCN0294.jpg   DSCN0292.jpg   DSCN0288.jpg  

    DSCN0289.jpg   DSCN0287.jpg   DSCN0285.jpg   DSCN0301.jpg   DSCN0297.jpg  

    Last edited by Dan Mosley; 12-06-2012 at 03:25 AM.
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  9. #9
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    Dan, Thanks a bunch ! That gives some more ideas and in sites on making mine. The wheel base was a great idea too...Love it all...Thanks a bunch again!!!
    Last edited by Mike Turner; 12-07-2012 at 12:28 AM.

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