help, help, help

once again, Ive devoted hours and hours of time trying to locate a delta run capacitor.
I ordered it last week, only to find out this morning, the company didnt ship it, and doesnt have one in stock.
Delta, is in the process of moving their warehouse, sounds like to me delta is going, not somewhere else, but going bye bye, since the few dealers I spoke with, seem to feel they have had it with delta, and wished me good luck trying to get the part.

so I called delta, and they wont promise when they will have the new place up and running to ship a part, and then again, who knows how long it might take them to find the part, if they even stay around.
I have bad vibes on it all, and the old capacitor is so burned out, I cant read anything off of it, and I searched and cant seem to get info on the size of the capacitor to purchase a generic one or one from grainger, Im frustrated.
Im stuck, since I cant work in an enclosed small space with a collector.
Delta is really ticking me off, when I asked them do they know any supplier who might have one in stock, I was told they have no clue.
When I called 2 service centers, they also wished me good luck.

so how do I figure out what size capacitor it is, its no where in the manual, and I cant seem to find the info online.
 
just spoke with delta technical support.
they cannot tell me what size the capacitor is, they do not have the technical numbers on it.
its not readable off the capacitor, and I guess when technical support cant help me, Im up the river without a paddle.

amazing.
 
Allen the only thing i can think of here is to make a new thread asking who has (describe exactly your model) same dust collector and ask if they would look at theirs and read the cap spec. Its only two numbers u interested in voltage and micro farads usually prefixed by a uF. Voltage actually can always be higher than what the machine voltage is so thats no big deal its the the capacitance thats needed.
Perhaps the guys at OWWM website can help they into rebuilding stuff so they may be more familiar.
Best of luck dont give up yet for the sake of a cap.

But i guess thats it for Delta. If they cannot be bothered to help u and service you in the USA then what kind of service can we expect here. Dunno why they would want to kill such a long standing brand like this.

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Allen,
Is there a motor rebuilder, or an electrical supply house in your area? You could call them, or take the old capacitor - or even the whole motor to them for replacement.

Actually, replacement won't be a big deal. Since the old one is blown and leaking, it won't be holding a charge, and is safe to remove (assuming machine is unplugged, etc.). Likely the two leads to the cap are plug-in, and not soldered, just unplug them and take the capacitor off.

Write down - or take a photo of - the information on the motor's spec plate/label, and take the cap and the info/photo to the motor shop. Likely, they'll be able to figure out a compatable capacitor from that.

Installation is easy - jut plug it in and you're done. The new cap should cost well less than twenty bucks. Last one I bought was about seven bucks, as I recall.
 
Just went out took mine apart to get what I could off of it.

The start cap has no markings on it. It's still original. It was just the run one (one the side of the motor) on mine that needed replacing.

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thanx brent, its the run cap that looks fried on mine, the start cap says starter on it, and it looks fine.
I wrote down what your run cap says, Ill start from there, Ill head over to grainger tomorrow.

jim, the motor on brents looks the same, so Im going to head over to grainger tomorrow. they were very helpful over the phone, and I see on their site they have this size capacitor, they are in new hyde park, which is 20 minutes from me, so its worth the trip over tomorrow.

Im not going to try to take it out myself, as simple as it may be, there alot of melted crud in there, I dont want to break any wires or do any damage.

The electrician ended up running his kid back to school, and hasnt been around today, but my other electrician friend said hed try to make it over here tonight, with the hurricane damage, these guys are super duper busy after their regular 10 hour days, so I have to be patient.

Just ticks me off, because if I knew the the internet company didnt have it in stock, I would have tried to clear this all up last week.

Id run over to grainger now, but IM hoping to get the cap out tonight and can bring it with me tomorrow, and also have one of the electricians just check the motor for me before I spend anymore time.(I figured ordering it on the internet it was a delta part it was a sure match)
 
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I'm glad your finally tracking this stuff down Allen. This sort of stuff aggravates the heck out of me. I had a similar situation with my VS grinder. Finally took the cap to a local motor shop told him what it was off of and handed him the cap. After a few expletives regarding the origin of manufacture, he said it wasn't even the right size for that motor. He said they must just put whatever they have on and send it out. He fixed me up and it's worked fine since.
 
I was hoping someone would disconnect it all for me tonight, so Id get the cap tomorrow, doesnt look likely, so Im going to grainger anyway, armed with the motor info, and Brents run cap info, and Ill take it from there.
My son will be here saturday, and Ill have him swap them out, just hoping I get the right one without taking this one off.
 
I did have to extend the cap wires on mine a bit. Wasn't much left after the fire and they got cut off.

Might want to pick up some extra wire of the correct gauge and some crimp connectors, if you don't have them.
 
the electrician just left. Its the same one you have on yours brent, same numbers.

Im heading over to grainger first thing in the morning, he mentioned to notice what type of connectors are on them to purchase the necessary hardware.(I think they are the type that slide on, whatever they are called)
 
I replaced the caps on my 220 volt sprinkler pump one time. Grainger is your friend. They will be able to match up a cap that will work...same size and specs. If you don't have a crimping tool, you might wait for your electrician friend. You don't want loose wire to connector crimps. That could create additional issues. But it really is an easy fix. Jim.
 
I had to drive to a different grainger than the one near me. They didnt have anything that matched up in size/shape, but they had a run capacitor that matched the specs.
It larger than what was in there, but Im hoping the new one will fit.
If it doesnt fit in the box, Ill leave it outside the box until I can replace it with a Delta capacitor. Its a 20 dollar expense Im willing to toss as long as I can keep the thing running.
I found a guy in california who as of yesterday had a delta cap in stock. I didnt order it since I wanted to see if grainger had what I needed, and Ill know more tomorrow night.
This is like a foreign language to me.
Im not embarassed to admit when it comes to electricity, even changing a light switch for me is a challenge.

like many times before, the more experienced people on this site walked me through, and I see this shouldnt be a real problem. Hope the cap I got fits.

Jim-my son doesnt think he has the crimping tool, maybe not even the right ends, and I dont think my electrician friend will be available anytime soon. The damage from the hurricane has him working with 102 fever, and he isnt a happy camper. Im sure for a temporary fix, my son can sodder or attach it some way.
 
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Im sure for a temporary fix, my son can sodder or attach it some way.

Yep - and I'm also pretty sure he'll say no to solder and yes to crimp :D Worst case you can cut the old wires near the cap and then use a "butt crimp" connector (available at big box or auto parts or grainger) to connect them to the wires from the capacitor. If that ends up being the solution (and its stuck outside) a liberal application of electrical tape should hold it for the duration.

Soldering higher voltage stuff isn't recommended anymore because if it gets hot the solder will run which initially causes loss of connectivity and probably arcing, but then runs down into other places possibly causing other shorts and more problems.

Glad to see it looks like you're on the home run :thumb:
 
we let it run for 25 minutes, all is good.
I damaged my remote switch for the collector, so now Ill have to purchase a new one.
The new cap doesnt fit in the switch box, so Im leaving it open and will order a delta cap so it fits nicely inside and I can close up the box.
Not sure when Ill get that cap, so Ill keep things the way it is until then.
Thanx for all the help.
 

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after dinner we went back out and my son took the remote apart(I went to look at the price, for 83 bucks I told him he has to fix the old one). Everything seemed fine, so we plugged in the sander, and sure enough the remote worked fine.
Hooked up the dust collector, nothing.
So we hooked up another tool, remote worked fine.
Checked the plug on the dust collector, plugged it into wall socket, fine, plugged it into remote, nothing.
Then we took an extension cord, plugged the extension into the remote, and the dc into the extension, and the remote worked fine. We cant figure it out, its somewhere in the twilight zone. strange, but with the extension it works fine, and in the wall socket it works fine.

Im typing on my new computer, my son built me a new computer for hanukah, the thing moves like lightening. Never knew how slow my old one was until I had this.

Im ordering the delta capacitor from a guy in California tomorrow. I know I dont need it, but I want to be able to close the switch box to prevent dust from caking up.
 
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