Kitchen Hutch - Build Thread - Done

larry merlau said:

ok glenn, what do you use as the phenolic resin???

Click to expand...

I use Cabot's Gloss. Good shelf life, blends very easily (I just shake the shop-made blend in the container I use) and most importantly to me, is pads on well. I prefer padding to almost any other method for most pieces.

I feel like I've wandered off and forgotten this guy even though its only been a few days. Most of what is going on right now is of little interest and doesn't show leaps and bounds of progress. I want to go on record stating my appreciation for you guys that pull of such beautiful work in small basements. My shop isn't huge but it isn't tiny either. Be that as it may, this guy is starting to make his presence known



There was some discussion about ripping irregular boards on the tablesaw and the hazard that involves. One suggestion was to use the bandsaw which is what I do. Please everybody, don't rip non-jointed lumber on the tablesaw; a fouled feed path between fence and blade on the tablesaw is a direct path to kickback city.

I need a no-show part to handle an in-progress design modification I am using to make the lower bin area more rigid. I have a piece of material that was a bit lean during the lumber yard's skip planing operation

.

but, the ugly edge has plenty of meat for me to make the piece I need. The piece is to be about 2-1/2" by 47" so I crosscut 2-5/8" into the side of the main board at about 48" and draw a line for the long cut. I then use an outfeed for support and eyeball my way along this line till I get to the cross cut where the off-cut comes free. I now have a board I can face joint, edge joint, plane to thickness and crosscut to length.

. .

now how did you get that pic of you ripping the board and do it too???? you got help and arent telling us

larry merlau said:

now how did you get that pic of you ripping the board and do it too???? you got help and arent telling us

Click to expand...

Time delay on the camera. I find I get better shots if I am no where near the camera when the picture is taken .

I'm just adding this shot to remind me what day it was that I finally got this thing up off the ground.

Looks like the torsion boxes are already coming in handy.

I have been under the weather for way too long. The base has been sitting around dry-fit for a couple weeks or more. I'm fianlly feeling well enough to get back to the shop a little. I work alone so I do things in stages. The front stretcher assembly will get glued to the left side panel tonight. I use hand screws as third-hands to keep tippy pieces upright and handy. I do a couple dry runs so I know I have all my jigs, clamps and glue where I expect them to be. The blue tape is for squeeze out control

.

The front stretcher sub-assembly was previously glued up. The grooved floating tenons make sure squeeze out shows up where you expect it instead of making a surprise appearance.

.

Once things get clamped and all the squeeze out has occurred, you remove the tape and all is well. The right side and rear stretchers are just place holders to help assure a square glue up. Tomorrow the rear stretchers and right side will glue up for real.

.

Glenn You have done gone and taught an old dog a new trick or two tonight. I like that jig clamped into the corner to insure square. And the notch in the waster wood clamp pad is well lets just say top notch.

The drill press table, fence and stops make cranking out internal structure parts a breeze.



I use scraps of the actual parts that will be used as spacers to get things positioned easily without measuring. I spin a brad point bit backwards to precisely mark where I want my pilot holes. I then remove the spacers and parts to drill the pilot holes to depth using my sophisticated depth gauge. Toilet bowl ring wax is used for screw lube .

. .

To seal structural parts I spray a thin shellac using a Preval canister. This is faster than hand padding on non-critical parts. It is also cheaper than rattle-can shellac and I get to pick my own cut.



The purpose of this internal structure, beyond carcass rigidity, will become more obvious as the build proceeds. I slipped the plywood back on to check the fit before I pre-finish it. The back and the rear top stretcher will go on just before the top gets attached.

.

The lower back will not show and this is really a kitchen fixture so, I was OK with the ply. The upper back will be beaded T&G panels as they will show through to the front.

coming along fine glenn, like the shellac spritzer gaining progress each time.

It must be the Tim Taylor effect. I'm milling boards for the top and pullout for the lower section.



For some reason when I am milling boards that are at the capacity of my machines and they perform well, I feel the need to grunt; urf, urf, urf!



I do enjoy the LV BU jointer.



I plan to use splines to aid alignment but, I can check the edges by dry clamping.

Hey Glenn,

Don't I get any credit for that wonderful screw lubricant box and the toilet stuff it holds?

I am enjoying your build, even though I don't get my rightful credits.

Enjoy,
Dad

well glenn i thought that plane was for smoothing not edge jointing? saw a old relic like that one down here but it wasnt all there..so its still on the shelf but i am watching your use of yours very closely.. you mentioned splines for alignment ,,you rant those through the slot process then to aid in alignment?

larry merlau said:

.. you mentioned splines for alignment ,,you rant those through the slot process then to aid in alignment?

Click to expand...

That's correct. I will use a small base router to run a slot down the joining edges of each board. I will mill some spline material from the same pecan to fit (with room for the glue, of course). I normally just butt edges together and glue them. I have never had any failures. I just feel like trying this method.

I tend to try different things for no particular reason other than to try them out or re-visit them to see if I like them better than something else. There will be a 1" or so long tongue on the short ends of the top to accept the breadboard ends. I am playing around with the idea of a little decorative "cap" that will set a bit proud as an accent for the joint.

Some jobs just were just made for a small router:



It is amazing how much spoil come from four 48" x 3/16" x 3/8" slots:



I guess I better add the over and under dust collection attachment for the Colt bases to my wish list.

We get threads here asking about DRO's on tablesaws. This is a good example of how the readout on my saw has become integrated into how I work. I need splines to fit the grooves I will use to aid in alignment of the top section during glue up. I plane a blank to thickness and joint one edge. I rip to width on the tablesaw and then zero the DRO. I am using one of Carbide Processors 24 tooth glue line rip full kerf blades that is 1/8" wide. I simply move the fence 5/16" and rip off a 3/16" strip.



Zero the DRO and repeat as necessary. This very quickly gives me splines that fit perfectly into the 3/16" slots I routed along the mating edges of the boards that will make up the top.



And as long as I had the saw setup I ran a few of 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" hardwood splines for future use. I'll just toss them in the dowel rack.

i can see where that spline idea would be great on lumber that was close to final size already rather than heavy on thickness, and keep it flatter.. good trick glenn

larry merlau said:

well glenn i thought that plane was for smoothing not edge jointing?

Click to expand...

Ya learn sumin new evry day ol dog. dat be why da called jointer planes

I did a little thinking outside the box and dug out this edge routing dust collection port that I got on clearance at Rockler years ago. It fits a standard PC template opening and I generally reserve it for larger routers doing edge profiles. It worked pretty well and the difference in the amount of spoil that gets away seemed to make it worth the effort of fussing it onto the smaller router.

.

glenn bradley said:

That's correct. I will use a small base router to run a slot down the joining edges of each board. I will mill some spline material from the same pecan to fit (with room for the glue, of course). I am playing around with the idea of a little decorative "cap" that will set a bit proud as an accent for the joint.

Click to expand...

Green and Greene Jr. rides again. I think that would look great on your cabinet. It ties your kitchen cabinet in with your bedroom furniture.

Enjoy,
Dad

I have got to ask but why even bother running a plane along the edges before you glue up the panels when the jointer will do just as nice of a job?