Damage Inside Morse Taper #2

Mike Turner

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Laurinburg NC
I was roughing a small piece of magnolia this afternoon (3" by 3") between centers and the spur center kept slipping so I tighten up some on the tail stock a few times and changed to another spur center and then to a stub center...I had noticed this before but didnt notice the inside of the #2 mt...I use one of those green plastic thing and blow it out most of the time or put my finger in and run it around feeling for chips etc...This looks worse then it is...Anybody ran into this before??
 

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Unusual. Normally, if something had been lodged between the male part & the MT, then I would expect improper seating & a wobble to boot. Since this doesn't appear to be normal, then perhaps it suggests some softness in the MT. Can you touch a file to it in a "discrete" location to check the hardness? If something was lodged & spun at a rate high enough to generate enough heat to soften the MT, then the question becomes what was lodged & how to avoid this in the future?
If there is sufficien tapered surface left within the taper to secure a male part, then stoning/sanding the specific area might work as a repair, or preferably a new internal grind. I would want to test the tightness of the fit before using though.
 
Al it looks worse than it is but it made me sick when I saw it....I gonna try it some more before messing with it...I can touch a file to it...There is still a lot of "meat" in it...You just can barely feel the damage...Thanks !!!!

Thanks Garry, Ill check out the reamer too !
 
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I'll second Gary's recommendation for the reamer. I found a MT2 reamer somewhere on the web a few years ago to fix a similar problem. I had a dirty spur center in the lathe, and got a bad enough catch to spin it out and score the inside of the taper. I touched it up lightly with the reamer just enough to remove any high/rough parts.
 
Thanks Vaughn. I guess that is on the list. Ive never used a reamer. I guess you put it in a tap wrench and do it by hand right ? A "finish" reamer for the #2 MT would be the right one I assume.
 
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I was roughing a small piece of magnolia this afternoon (3" by 3") between centers and the spur center kept slipping so I tighten up some on the tail stock a few times and changed to another spur center and then to a stub center...I had noticed this before but didnt notice the inside of the #2 mt...I use one of those green plastic thing and blow it out most of the time or put my finger in and run it around feeling for chips etc...This looks worse then it is...Anybody ran into this before??

Mike, how old is your Lathe... can't tell for sure from the picture, but since it's white, guessing it's a JET.... they have a very good warranty program and if you think it's a defect in the lathe and it's less than 5 years old, they might replace the spindle for you.... they recently replaced mine for another problem at the reeves pulley end... the E-ring keeper cut the corners off the groove that held the back pulley in place because the E-ring keeper was too big and loose, so I had too much play... it's an easy change out to replace the spindle.

The Tech guys at JET are great to work with... very helpful and knowledgeable.
 
Hi Chuck,
It is a Jet 1642 Evs less than 6 months old....I am good about checking and taking care of my stuff but wonder on this if I missed something so I wonder if they would do anything if I did it. Ill email them and send a pic and see... Ill let you know what they say....Thanks..
 
I know you were turning only 3X3 but have you turned large bowls between centers? A lot of people do so that they can reposition the balance point easily. However, spur drives are mainly made for spindle or small items. If good pressure is not kept it can become slightly loose especially with green wood.
I like Bill Grumbines suggestion to get a spur that fits into you chuck and keeps the pressure from heavy objects on the spindle. There are several available that may fit your chuck or some others that threads onto the spindle without a chuck.
 
I have turned some bowls which the largest was when finished was 9" or 10"....I got a chance this morning to take another look at my spurs centers and the spindle. The spur centers had some bad spots on them which had to just recently happened cause I check usually that. The damage isnt bad and Im sure a finish #2 morse taper finish reamer should clean it pretty good for the most part.....My question is when you are starting on a bowl that has to be roughed out which method of holding the bowl blank do alot of you use? I know I will be hesitant to use the spur center from now on.
 
...My question is when you are starting on a bowl that has to be roughed out which method of holding the bowl blank do alot of you use? I know I will be hesitant to use the spur center from now on.

I went with the Oneway Big Bite chuck spur after I boogered up the inside of my MT2. It fits both of my Teknatool chucks, and I haven't had a blank get loose on me since I started using it.

And you're right about the reamer, it's the "finish" reamer that you'll want. Mine has six vanes/blades/cutters/whatever they're called on it. I just put it in a tap handle and gently turned it by hand (with the lathe turned off). Only took a few twists to knock off the galled metal that was creating high spots. If I wasn't 800 miles from my shop, I'd loan you mine for the cost of shipping.
 
Vaughan do you use a Nova G3? Thats the chucks I have. I like that spur and just wanted to make sure it will fit before I order one of these Big Bite Spurs. I like that idea....Boy turning is a live and learn situation...Thanks a bunch !!!! It wouldnt be a bad idea for me to have one of these reamers on hand anyways....hoping Ill never have to use one again but ya never know !!!! But with this Big Bite spur that should work great !
 
It looks like it might be galling from slippage. This generally results in an area around the damage being proud of the desired level of the surface. If so, I would consider a reamer to be a good choice. Maybe a machine shop nearby would rent you one(?) or just do it for you if you took the lathe by to them. Be sure to check your mating parts for damage as well. If the damage is only furrowed below the desired surface, I would be tempted to just press on and use it and avoid the loss of material through reaming. JMHO.
 
Mike, yes, I've used the Big Bite with both a G# and a Supernova 2.

It looks like it might be galling from slippage. This generally results in an area around the damage being proud of the desired level of the surface. If so, I would consider a reamer to be a good choice. Maybe a machine shop nearby would rent you one(?) or just do it for you if you took the lathe by to them. Be sure to check your mating parts for damage as well. If the damage is only furrowed below the desired surface, I would be tempted to just press on and use it and avoid the loss of material through reaming. JMHO.

His lathe weighs about 400 pounds, so taking to a machine shop would be problematic. In my case, there were grooves dug into the inside taper, but there was also the waste material that was pushed up as the result of making the grooves. I only needed to ream it lightly to remove the waste that was causing high spots...the grooves are still there and not a problem.
 
His lathe weighs about 400 pounds, so taking to a machine shop would be problematic. In my case, there were grooves dug into the inside taper, but there was also the waste material that was pushed up as the result of making the grooves. I only needed to ream it lightly to remove the waste that was causing high spots...the grooves are still there and not a problem.

The head slides off by removing 1-2 hex head screws. I seem to remember from putting mine together that the head weighs about 100lbs plus the weight of a couple Advil post assembly! Might be easier and less time consuming to slide the head off and run it to a shop...JMHO
 
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