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Thread: End/Side table design

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Boston, MA
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    End/Side table design

    This will probably be a long build as I don't get much shop time, but I figure if I start posting about it here it may be additional motivation.

    I have a few pieces of 12"x12" green marble tile left over from a bathroom renovation. I think they will make a nice table top contrasted against a dark wood like mahogany. I just happen to have received a nice piece of mahogany for a Xmas present from a friend -- got to love people that know you well enough to get you wood for the holidays.

    I've never used sketchup before but decided to give it a go. Watched the tutorials at Sketchup for Woodworkers and started playing with it.

    Overall dimensions are 30" square and 24" high.

    Below are three different designs I made.

    The first I felt the legs were too fat and the top was too thin for the body. The legs are 2" square at the top tapering on the inside edges down to 1.5". The top is 3/4" thick.

    The second image fixed those issues, but I still felt it looked a bit plain. I made the legs 1.5" square at the top tapering down to 1". I increased the thickness of the top to 1".

    For the third pass, I removed the bullnose on the edges of the top and instead added splines in the miters. I also moved the apron forward flush with the legs and added some embellishment. I think it adds some visual interest but is it too much?


    What do folks think? Comments and criticisms are very welcome -- much easier to change things while they are still electrons.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    new york city burbs
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    the table looks great, I also like the tiles inset.
    my only comment besides that is that are you sure you want an end table 24 inches high?
    how are you going to inset the tiles, what are you planning on doing for the tile base and the solid wood edge around them?.
    Human Test Dummy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    matt i think number two is fine,, dont know how much of this kind of thing you have done but to make the third one you have to be more awake..the second one looks good and you can still dress it up if you like with the splines i wouldnt thin the legs, leave them at 2" and then taper..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
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    Thank Allen.

    Do you suggest a height more or less than 24"? I'm planning to put the table in a dead corner where two couches come together. 24" will put the top of the table right at the arm height of the couch.

    The picture frame around the tiles will be mahogany. The design has the frame with a 1/4" dado that will receive a piece of 1/2" plywood (rabbeted down to 1/4" at the edges). I'll glue down the tiles and fill the gaps with a color matched caulk. I plan to skin the bottom of the plywood with a piece of luan so the light colored plywood won't be visible.
    Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.

  5. #5
    I'm in the same camp as Larry and feel #2 is the one. My wife also agrees that #2 looks the best.

  6. #6
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    Nov 2006
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    Delton, Michigan
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    your idea of having the plywood to be in a dado will work and as for hiding it underneath, i wouldnt worry about it unless you plan to be down on the floor alot looking at the bottom side
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    145
    Thanks for all the feedback & suggestions. LOML liked the second one best, but also felt it was missing something. I put a slight arch on the apron and I think we have a winner

    New comments or feedback are still welcomed. I'm quickly falling in love with sketchup -- took me under two minutes to add in the arch effect on the apron. I should have tried it a long time ago. Once I get the shop in order and ready to work, I'll start a build thread.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SideTable_Design_ThinnerLegs_ThickerTop_Arched.jpg 
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ID:	72819
    Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    new york city burbs
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    most of the end tables Ive built have been between 18 and 20 inches high. but I guess its what you looking for, so 24 will work if you want it high enough to reach the arm tops of the sofa.
    Human Test Dummy

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Location
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    Hi,

    I liked #2 or #3 depending on the rest of the furniture in the house. In my house two would be better. THEN you came up with #4. That one is really a winner.

    Unless you throw some strange parties where people are down on the floor looking up---I think staining the bottom of the tile base would be just fine.

    If you are really pushing for something to pass down through the generations; do the luan.

    Do make the top level with the arms of the other furniture. If you go low, you have a visual hole. If you go high it is really inconvenient and will cause a lot of spilled drinks.

    Enjoy,

    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SE Minnesota
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    Matt, it's a nice start on your table. Thank you for sending the model. I made a few comments and send you an e-mail back. By the way, a large part of the file size was that materials thing you downloaded. It displayed as a component.

    Here's my modifications to your table. No changes to dimensions. Well, I changed the size of the stone tiles you have on the top. Maybe that was the wrong change, though.

    It's going to be a nice table.

    Irony: The opposite of Wrinkly

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