new year challenge-- brent vrs jim

Started roughing out the blank and came across a crack that I need some advice on. The shape of almost any bowl will traverse this crack unless I just make the blank smaller in order to omit it. Please, send me your suggestions, recommendations, sympathy, etc.

Go for it and apply liberal amounts of epoxy or CA or ??? This wood is green so I don't know that glues are an option(?). Just make the blank smaller??? Help.

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While we wait for words of wisdom from on high. Here are some more action shots of the process. First we carefully outline the boundaries of the blank-to-be.

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Then have at it with a 2-3 skip tooth Timberwolf. That's my indentured servant wielding the wood.

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After all that cutting there was a bit of a mess on top of the bandsaw table. The top surface was too irregular to use the upper collection snout.

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Thanks to the under the table collection modification, the lower cabinet looks like this (the lower dust port is sealed off, there is no collection in the bottom of the cabinet.

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Our next challenge (as soon as we figure out what the eventual blank will look like) will be to fasten onto the beast. First "we" flatten the "bottom".

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My Grizzly Sawtooth Forstners will help out in this situation.

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My indentured servant is getting restless. I'd better take him inside and throw some food at him.

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I think I'd go with some epoxy maybe mixed with some wood dust and start spinning! Stop and check to see if more epoxy is needed once you get it rough more. Hope your paying your help well:D

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
Jim That's a deep crack. jeff said what i was about to say. I have filled many cracks doing just that.And yes you will have to keep filling that crack as you turn your epoxy away. You can also use ca which i most likely would use,as it seems to seep deeper into the cracks. As far as adding saw dust to it that's something i would think about after it's been ruffed turned, dryed and put back on the lathe. But that's just me, as you are gonna turn a lot of it a way as you go along. Just watch this as you go along,at slow speeds,and make sure you are wearing your shield. I really would hate to here of this coming apart on you. CA,CA, CA don't skimp on it . Good luck and first and for most have fun with it. It's only wood, and Larry has a whole lot more where that came from.:)O yes the ca, or the epoxy will work on green wood. Just keep it on where ever you see a crack and you should be fine.
 
dont forget steve that this wood came from paul gallian he done me a huge favor i just stirred the nest on this one..:) but i got a replacement in case of emergency now actually two of them:)
 
Dang pith, the beginnings of all cracks!

Use thin CA glue on that sucker, it should hold up just fine, the wet wood will react quickly with the CA, so as you turn you will have to apply more of it, as it may not go all the way down into the crack. Wear your shield and stand out of the way while turning, don't go too fast. Stop often and check the crack, if you need more CA use more CA!

Cheers!
 
Hi,

I spent the day cleaning up after my indentured (Do you call them employees? Is "helper" politically correct?) person left to go home and work on his own projects. I placed the "blank" in a brown paper sack. Is that OK for a few days until I can get another project out of the lathe, the crotch piece mounted for turning, etc.?

Or should I Anchorseal now and
---1) remove the Anchorseal with something (I don't know what) at a later time, when ready to rough or
---2) Leave the Anchoseal on while I rough turn the piece to a cylinder or
---3) Leave the Anchorseal on and run my turning tools through the goo when the time comes to turn the bottom?

See what a mess you got started Larry???

Enjoy,

JimB
 
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OK Next chapter in the "Bradley Is As Green As This Wood" saga.

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Leveled and “centered” wood on DP. I had to do a bit of custom work to get hold downs so I could mount a faceplate on what will be the top of the bowl. I had to use a Tee Bolt attached to a coupler which was attached to some 5/16 threaded rod to get the height I needed for a hold down. I used one Rockler hold down plus three longer ones that I made from oak.

In order to mount the three-inch face plate I wanted a recessed three-inch diameter hole with a flat bottom that would be parallel to the world. I used some scrap to tilt the “blank” to the desired angle. The hole was then drilled with a Grizzly three-inch Forstner bit.

Never having drilled a large hole in green wood I progressed slowly. SUDDENLY I was very happy I had hold downs. I guess that I had not gone slowly enough. That bit tried to pick up that approximately fifty-pound block of wood and the ninety-five pound DP gave a little twitch. The bit stopped the quill and the motor…No real excitement; PLENTY of excitement if I had not used the hold downs. I wonder if they make Kelvar vests in my bitty size?

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Close-up of threaded rod, coupler and Tee Bolt. This system of Tee Bolt, coupler and threaded rod lets me have any length rod for hold downs, etc.

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Cutting off a 3/8 in. drill to use in the Forstner bit. The bit comes with a screw center. The screw pulls the bit into the wood faster than I wanted to drive.

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Pic shows Forstner ready to enter the wood and the 3 inch faceplate.
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This is where the bit meets the bark on its way to wood.

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The hole

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Faceplate pushed into the hole ready for McFeeley’s (they just plain don’t break nor mangle) 2 1/2 in., number 8, flat head wood screws. If I were looking for a job, I would go to McFeeley. I am so sold on their screws that they just couldn’t resist hiring me.

And that is where it is at 8:12 Monday February 18, 2013

Enjoy,

JimB

Larry, for such a nice guy you can sure make someone else do things that they would not have normally tried for at least another year.

Paul, you are also a really nice guy. On the other hand, if you didn't have quite a bit of imp in you, you would not collaborate with well known imps... And get me into things WAY over my head.

But, Thanks anyway guys. I am having a ball.
 
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Jim, you're getting there. :thumb: Forward progress is a good thing.

Now that you've seen how a 3" Forstner bit reacts and can suddenly bite into the wood, you'll see why I recommended drilling a group of smaller holes (say, 3/4" or 1" diameter) to the same depth. You'll get the same flat spot for the faceplate*, but without the nice neat round edge. I've prepped a lot of large blanks that way, and haven't had a need to use hold downs yet. The weight of the blank (and the use of my free hand) has been sufficient to hold it in place as long as I wasn't trying to drill too wide of hole. (In fact, with the 3" bit I'm kind of surprised the hold downs held and didn't let go.)

* Keep in mind that the flat spot for the faceplate doesn't need to be perfect. As long as it's relatively flat and the faceplate can't rock, it's good to go. I just found a few pics to describe what I'm talking about. I've posted a separate thread here.
 
Dad, you are doing great. What progress; you make me proud. I guess we now have empirical evidence of what happened to my hair when we look at the pic of you running the angle grinder :rofl:. And to think I have been blaming the LOML; I had hair when we met :D
 
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