Grizzly Slipit vs. Boeshield???

Al Launier

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Grizzly Slipit vs. Boeshield???

In an email discussion with Grizzly to resolve some tuning questions I had, the tech guy recommended the use of G5562 SlipIt Silicone free sliding compound for the table top and the G5563 Woodworker’s Tool Lube for the saw blade. He stated not to use a wax and not to use any product that contain silicone as they could find their way into the wood & then affect the finishing of the wood. His exact words: "Wax is not recommended for the table surface as it can change how a stain is finish coats the wood. We recommend the G5562 Slip It Silicone free sliding compound. This gel applies similar to a paste wax and will seal and protect cast iron surfaces. We also recommend the use of the G5563 Woodworker’s Tool Lube to lubricate your bandsaw blades."

I've read several posts that recommend using a wax & others that recommend Boeshield T-9 for the table surface to "slick" it up. For those of you that have used the Boeshield and the Grizzly Slipit compound, how would you compare them? And, which do you prefer, the gel or the spray? I like a spray, but if working the gel into the "pores" would work better, it should last longer.

Finally, the G5563 Woodworker’s Tool Lube is described online as "This cast iron table sealant and bit and cutting blade lubricant reduces sliding friction and hang-ups. Repels moisture and dirt and inhibits rust while preventing resin build-up. Out performs paste wax and contains no silicone or CFC's." So why wouldn't this also work for both the table & the blade?

Thanks,
Al
 
A lot of guys use wax on their saw and planer tables and like it. I'm not one of them though. The possibility of getting wax into my wood and messing with the finish makes me a bit nervous. I use "top saver" to clean and lubricate all my metal tool tables. I reapply every month. I've recently found a teflon lubricant that I use on my planer tables. I really like it.
I've never used a bandsaw blade lubricant before. The thought never crossed my mind. I do round over the back of the blade though. It will be interesting to see if anyone else uses a blade lubricant.
 
Your preference may have to do with the weather or your local environment. That's just a wild guess as I have used Johnson's Paste Wax for years. Slick surfaces, no rust and never an effect on material when it comes time to finish. I only need to replenish 2 or 3 times a year if I do a good cleaning with mineral spirits to remove the previous coats and then lay down 2 or 3 coats, buffing between coats.

It is always good to remember that one of the things that makes this forum so great is that you get input from many folks who do many different types of woodworking in many areas on the planet. That being said, Boeshield's T-9 is a bit gummy and not really very slippery at all in my shop in SoCal. I know that many folks swear by T-9 and I assume there is a variable that makes one product work better for some and another product work well for others.

I haven't tried blade lube but do sometimes touch a bit of paraffin to the blade if I am doing a lot of tall re-sawing. I do stone the back of the blades when new but, really just run them after that. I do agree that you should avoid silicone products but, petroleum products have never caused me any grief.
 
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Paste wax gets used on all my machines and I never had any issues. My shop is a business and the machines see alot of wood. I tried the slip it and didnt care for it. Paste wax worked just as good and alot cheaper.
 
I've used T-9 before and like Glenn it ended up being a little gummy. I had to really buff it to get rid of the sticky. It wasn't very slick even then. I went over the top of the T-9 with Johnson's to get a slick surface.
 
Well, it looks like I opened Pandora's Box once again. The response are all great, providing information I wasn't aware of.
  • I wasn't aware of the effect the weather environment would have on the product.
  • I wasn't aware that Boeshield T-9 was gummy & not so slippery.
  • I was inclined to try Grizzly Slipit based on Grizzly's recommendation from a tech rep, but after the marginal reviews (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5562...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1), and not hearing this as being a popular treatment that you guys typically use, I'm now less inclined to try it.
  • I wasn't aware of "Top Saver". It has some pretty positive reviews (http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ). It is also expensive, but apparently very effective, from the reviews & from Bob's personal experience. I've seen his shop & his work, so that lends a lot of first hand credence to the product. All of his equipment were in good shape, he obviously takes good care of his toys.
  • My "weather environment" should be pretty good, considering that it's in my basement next to the utility room where the furnace is located. So, I don't see humidity as a problem during the cool season, plus I use a dehumidifier during the summer which keeps the humidity ~ 40%. My table saw & drill press CI tables haven't succembed to rust & I haven't treated them at all.
  • Also, thinking more on what I'll really be doing with wood, at least for the short term, I'm not looking to build furniture grade product, just the occasional project resulting from necessity, or a casual project whim, so I don't anticipate the "finishing" problems from using a wax, or other materials on the saw table. I don't have a jointer, or planer, or other equipment needed for high quality work. Right now, I only have a Bird House & a Lawn Glide Swing on the list, along with a few jigs that I've noticed on FWW. Being the "practical" (aka frugal) guy that I sometimes am, it would seem to make more sense for me to try a paste wax, as suggested above, until I get into more sophisticated wor & have the toys to support it. When that time comes, I could strip the wax & apply something else. I think getting Top Saver would be more appropriate then.

Thanks guys! Once again you've given me some good advice based on knowledgeable experience.
 
...I do stone the back of the blades when new but, really just run them after that. ...

One more user of paste furniture wax on my tables and bandsaw blades. When a table is new, the wax "soaks in" so it requires several coats, and renewal after a week or two. As the table ages, I only rewax every 6-12 months or less - when it seems less slippery.

I have heard that rounding the back of the blade is helpful, but do not do it on Lenox carbide blades - they are rounded at the factory, and if you do it, that voids any warranty (although I have never had a warranty claim on a bandsaw blade).
 
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I have always used boston brand butchers wax on my tables and never had a problem with a finish. A shop i worked at used boshield and I found I never got the mileage out of an application like I did with butchers wax and a can of butchers wax for ten bucks will last a year where as a can of boshield probably a tenth of that.
I will clean my table down then apply 1 or two thin coats of wax with a thorough buffing using a clean rag.
 
I found a source for Johnsons Paste Wax; harder to find than anticipated. So now that I can get it, I'm wondering if it would be a good practice to try to help "melt it in" with a heat gun to get it into the pores. Thinking this may may an easier, perhaps even a better job of it, but wonder if the heat would affect the properties in the wax???
 
I alwasy thought the t9 was just me. My jointer doesn't get all that much use, but it always seems a little gummier rather that slippery when I go to use it.
 
I found a source for Johnsons Paste Wax; harder to find than anticipated. So now that I can get it, I'm wondering if it would be a good practice to try to help "melt it in" with a heat gun to get it into the pores. Thinking this may may an easier, perhaps even a better job of it, but wonder if the heat would affect the properties in the wax???

I think you may be overthinking this, Al. ;) The heat gun probably won't hurt anything, but I don't know that you'd gain anything by doing it. Johnson Paste Wax -- just wiped on, left to sit for a few minutes, then wiped off -- has been effective for thousands of people on even more thousands of tools.

Another point...most of the commercial treatments are to prevent and/or remove rust. You already know from your table saw and drill press that rust isn't likely to be an issue in your shop. I'd suggest just trying paste wax, applied as recommended on the can, before trying something more expensive of complicated.

...The possibility of getting wax into my wood and messing with the finish makes me a bit nervous. I use "top saver" to clean and lubricate all my metal tool tables. I reapply every month. I've recently found a teflon lubricant that I use on my planer tables. I really like it...

Personally, I'd be way more concerned about Teflon messing up a finish than any wax. ;)
 
Another vote for Paste Wax. Why break what ain't broken. I mostly use Johnsons because I can get it locally but I don't believe its substantially better than most of the other carnuba based concoctions. Pretty much anything that's a hard wax base (carnuba, microcrystaline, etc..) in some sort of volatile delivery mechanism (Johnsons uses citrus oil which smells nice - imho, not lomls - and is perhaps arguably less toxic than some of the alternatives) ought to do the trick. Mostly just have to watch for no problematic additives as others have noted.

I've also used Felders Super Gleit (super glide) which I think is similar to slipit (?) but it disappears on its own pretty quickly if left sitting. It is slipperier than straight wax and imho works pretty darn good if you're running a lot of wood through a planer or jointer in one run (easier/quicker to apply than re-waxing) so I save it for large runs and then re-wax when I'm done for the day, the wax alone serves for 97.2% of my usage.
 
Thanks Steve!

Today I checked Home Depot & neither I or a sales associate could find it. Then I went to WalMart, again the same result with both me & a sales associate looking. Geez, I didn't think it would be this hard to find this stuff!

Then I then went to a local hardware store & "we" found Tree Wax paste wax, their last can ($10.99/16 oz? & obviously been there awhile - cobwebs) & only brand. Not knowing if all paste waxes are the same & knowing you guys recommended Johnson's, I decided to hold off. When I arrived home I Googled Home Depot & guess what? They carry it for $6.97/16 oz. can. I then Googled Lowes & they also carry it, but for $4.99/16 oz. can. Guess where I'm going tomorrow?

Thanks to all for your help.
 
Do you have an Ace Hardware? They have it, if your local store doesn't carry it you can order it free delivery to your local store. I don't really know if Johnson is better than any other like wax.
 
Personally, I'd be way more concerned about Teflon messing up a finish than any wax. ;)

I was concerned about it too Vaughn but so far it hasn't affected finishing. Then again I stink at finishing so I may not have noticed any difference :D

I'll stick with it on my planer and jointer. Boards just fly through them but I may give wax a try again on my TS and bandsaw. With the humidity changes season to season I was a bit concerned about trapping moisture under the wax and cause rusting. Like Al said, the top saver is expensive and I reapply it every month. I have a can of Butchers bowling alley wax. I assume it's probably pretty much like the Johnsons wax.
 
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