Thread: Stile and rail panel door question

1. Stile and rail panel door question

I am trying to determine the width of the stile and rail frame pieces of a cab door.

I usually make them about 2-1/2" but the client has shown me pictures of doors that seem to be smaller than 2-1/2"

What is a typical width for the frames of a door?

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At work it finishes at 2-1/2" as standard. For me personally I usually go with 2-1/4". Can't remember why I settled on that width but it's what I've been using for as long as I can remember.

3. I have done some at 1-1/2" which didnt look to bad. I normally finish at 2-1/2".

4. 21/4 or 21/2 have done it both ways latest set is 21/4 and they don't look to bad at all.

5. I do mine at 2 3/8ths. I reasoned mine out this way. I have a style and rail cutter with a 3/8ths tenon and groove. If I'm making a 12" door, I machine the styles at 2 3/8ths and cut the rails at 8". This allows me to simply deduct 4" from the total width of the door to calculate my parts.

6. My standard here is 2-1/4" rail and stiles. But.... I've done just about everything in between. Sometimes a drawer front will get a 1-3/4" top and bottom rail. I've done 4" stiles on doors. It can be whatever trips your trigger.

7. Originally Posted by Jim Hager
I do mine at 2 3/8ths. I reasoned mine out this way. I have a style and rail cutter with a 3/8ths tenon and groove. If I'm making a 12" door, I machine the styles at 2 3/8ths and cut the rails at 8". This allows me to simply deduct 4" from the total width of the door to calculate my parts.
That's an interesting approach.

8. One thing to keep in mind. If you are using euro hinges the style has to be wide enough for the hing cup hole.

9. Ive usually gone with 2-1/4 but on top drawers will go with 2-1/4 stiles and 1-1/2 rails. Those dimensions seem to give the most pleasing proportions. once you start going wider than that the doors begin to dominate the cabinet.

10. I think of the width of the rail and stile as 2 inches, plus the width of the "moulding" which on all my cutters is 3/8 inch. Then I make the doors 1/8 inch oversize so I can trim for absolute square, and to get a pretty joint between the rail and stile (no glue in the end-grain of the stile). So my rough lumber is cut to 2 1/2 inches.

If my tenon and groove are 3/8 inch deep (standard among my cheap cutters), then I simply assume the rail is 2+2 inches shorter than the door width. But my "good" cutters have a 1/2 inch tenon and groove for extra strength, so my rails have to be 1/4 inch longer.

The 2 plus 3/8 inch gives a good amount of room for the cup of a Euro hinge, plus an edge profile on the door. I sometimes cheat it down a little - perhaps by a 1/4 inch, or more if there are no hinges. Wider starts to get into issues of wood expansion - cross grain on the rails glued to the long grain on the stiles, so wider may be weaker, not stronger.

I have made a spreadsheet for doing all the door calculations. The instructions and the link to download the sheet are at www.solowoodworker.com/wood/doors.html. Somebody on the web was selling a spreadsheet to do that for \$25 - mine is free.

My spreadsheet also does the calculation for floating panels, with and without space balls, compressed to the factory recommended amount, etc.etc. Same for glass and flat (plywood) panels.
Last edited by Charlie Plesums; 01-09-2013 at 05:45 PM. Reason: add floating panels

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