murphy bed info..

larry merlau

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Delton, Michigan
has anyone made one and if so can i see a pic of it, also where does one get the hardware? best place? make your own? any info is appreciated have a daughter thinking she wants one???? what space is required to have one?
 
Yep. Rockler.

I did one for my mother years ago. Sorry, no pix.

What is important is the pivot point with regard to height and distance come the wall. Other that that you can implement nearly any design.
 
I use the hardware from Selby...http://selbyhardware.thomasnet.com/category/selby-sleep-systems

It comes with layouts for cutting the panels, and parts list. The bed adjustments are very easy to do to compensate for mattress weight, lifting ease, opening gently, and remaining closed. Nothing has to be attached to the floor. No pics.

I've tried the hydraulic piston type hardware, and have had failures. The Selby systems are done with a very quiet and smooth set of springs (adjustable). Never had a problem with them. One of the installations has been used daily for 15 years.


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I have made about 10 over the years, all queen size vertical (pivots at the headboard). The mechanism I use is from Create-A-Bed, but the best price is from Rockler when they are having one of their "20% off on any one item" sale as I believe they are having this week. Be sure to measure precisely during construction - on one bed I was off 1/16 inch, and (of course on that bed) decided to do the final assembly of the two major pieces at the client's home. It didn't fit - I had to do a very embarrassing fix in front of the client (after 50 miles round trip to pick up tools).

My web site has a whole list of considerations for Murphy beds (such as the type of cabinet on each side of the bed, and how it comes to the floor). See www.plesums.com/wood/bedroom/murphy.html for pictures and discussion. I have looked at alternate approaches, but in each case the Create-A-Bed approach was selected.

You do not need the extra plans Rockler offers - the parts kit comes complete with instructions. I occasionally hear rumors of problems with the gas pistons, but I have not had any issues with the many units I have built, in use for as long as 8 years.
 
FWIW, the shocks on my mother's bed were replaced twice in 10 years.

Was it with the "Create a Bed" hardware (from Rockler or wherever)?
If yes. where did you get the replacement pistons? How expensive were they?
Or maybe I should ask what your mother does with the bed? ;) One of my customers uses it multiple times each week, and has not had a problem in 7 years.
 
If you are going to use the Create-A-Bed hardware, Rockler is cheaper than the factory price when they have a sale, and their "20% off any one regular price item" special expires on Saturday. Use promo code V2278
 
Was it with the "Create a Bed" hardware (from Rockler or wherever)?
If yes. where did you get the replacement pistons? How expensive were they?

Exactly what I was wondering as well. I am used to replacing them in vehicles, due to a few years wrenching, but doubt they would have any the correct size.

Also for those that have done this, did any of you have an outlet behind it, and how was access to it when the bed it down? (electric blanket or such)
Thanks
 
Exactly what I was wondering as well. I am used to replacing them in vehicles, due to a few years wrenching, but doubt they would have any the correct size.

Also for those that have done this, did any of you have an outlet behind it, and how was access to it when the bed it down? (electric blanket or such)
Thanks

I usually mount them on the bed side of the side cabinets. They can be mounted behind the bed...there's usually enough room back there.


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Correct, normal electrical outlet. Only Murphy beds I dealt with were two antique ones (way before electricity), that made those outlets impossible to use, when placed.

What you have then is a retrofit condition. You are dealing with figuring out a solution. You might just try a plug in extension, like one of those electrical strips, or just a moulded extension cord. Some have very flat male caps. Normally, when planning for a Murphy bed, or any wall system configuration, the initial measurements and location of wall outlets, phone connections, data hookups, A/V connections are taken into consideration with the layout of the casework. They are relocated according to local codes, and the NEC. Chases, spaces and gaps can be planned in the cabinetry to afford a convenient location.


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What you have then is a retrofit condition. You are dealing with figuring out a solution. You might just try a plug in extension, like one of those electrical strips, or just a moulded extension cord. Some have very flat male caps. Normally, when planning for a Murphy bed, or any wall system configuration, the initial measurements and location of wall outlets, phone connections, data hookups, A/V connections are taken into consideration with the layout of the casework. They are relocated according to local codes, and the NEC. Chases, spaces and gaps can be planned in the cabinetry to afford a convenient location.


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If one can, one can relocate (no kidding), now how about the answer for one that couldn't? (say building for a relative to use at a college, where you are a renter, before seeing a room)
 
If one can, one can relocate (no kidding), now how about the answer for one that couldn't? (say building for a relative to use at a college, where you are a renter, before seeing a room)

You don't have much of a choice do you. At first you mentioned using a vintage unit, and now you're talking about building one. You could make a scribed edge along the wall for the whole unit...setting it forward enough to use a plug in extension cord. The standoff amount can be a minimum...like an inch or so. The unit can still be attached to the wall. If you are building it, install the outlet where needed, and connect it as a plug in.


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With great difficulty you can reach most outlets in the wall behind the Create-A-Bed Murphy Bed. You wouldn't want to do it for routine use, but you can probably plug in an extension cord if you forgot before installing the bed.

There is not room to install a duplex wall outlet in the side of the bed - the bed comes very close to the side when it pivots closed. I finally found a place I can cut a hole for a wire, but not much more.

In practice, I recommend building a cabinet on each side of the Murphy Bed - you will see it in all the pictures on my web site. You need an aisle to get into the bed (queen size usually means an aisle on each side), and 18 inches is a good minimum. There is no nightstand, so in that cabinet I include a pull-out shelf at about mattress height - now you have a nightstand available at night to place your glasses and whatever. That pull out is often below a regular shelf for lights, Kleenex, books, and other "permanent" nightstand items. Doors below the pull out are a great place for extra blankets, pillows, etc. although the basic bedding can be closed into the bed.

Since there are often lights in the nightstands, I usually run that extension cord hidden behind the bed into the base of the side cabinets. Many of my customers have added the little sliding dimmer switches that sit on a counter for the in-bed lighting, or for the night-stand lights - those sliders are placed on the pull-out night table (come up through a wiring hole on the regular shelf.) and can be moved to the nightstand shelf when it is out.

If you decide to put puck lights in the top of the Murphy bed, I suggest increasing the height a couple inches so the lights are not against the mattress - they can get hot. I also add a "closet light switch" - the kind that comes on when you open the closet door - to turn the light off when the bed is closed. All that wiring can be above the bed, except for one power cord, and for that I cut a small groove in the back of one of the plywood sides, so it doesn't show.
 
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