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Thread: Which SawStop?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    We now divide our time between southwest Florida and southwest Vermont.

    Which SawStop?

    I'm planning to upgrade from my TS3650 to a SawStop cabinet saw. I have 220v in my shop, but would just as soon go with the 115v model. Ripping 8/4 hardwood is probably the worst load I would put on the saw, a job that the 3650 usually (but not always) handles well enough. I'm assuming the SawStop's 1.75 hp would be up to the task, but would appreciate it if someone who has the 115v model would share his or her view on the subject. Thanks.

    The optimist says the glass is half full.
    The pessimist says it's half empty.
    I say the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Delton, Michigan
    dont have a saw stop but can tell you for the electric bill the 220 would be better.. its like a 6 cylinder vrs a 8 cylinder for pulling weight both will do it but the 8 can do it better..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Austin, Texas
    I don't think you will see a difference in performance between 110 and 220 volts, but your saw motor will be happier at 220 volts. A 1.75 hp motor is pushing the capacity of a regular 110 volt circuit, so nothing else can be on that circuit, and the chance for a voltage drop (very bad for the motor) when the motor is running full load (pushing the limits of the 20 amp residential circuit) is real. 220 volts means you are pulling half the current for the same power (your electric bill will be the same), and with lower current there is less voltage drop, less heat in the motor, etc. etc.

    I am a horsepower addict. I admit it. I am now up to seven 5 hp motors in my shop, and I have NEVER regretted having too much power. I have had my 5 hp saw bind up/stop while ripping reaction wood. I certainly don't need 5 hp every day on a 10 inch blade, but there are times I use it.

    I had a 3650 years ago. My brother-in-law copied my shop with a 3650, then for safety decided to go to SawStop - his family reminded him that as a doctor/surgeon they might be hungry if he cut his hand. He got one of their cabinet saws and spent the next couple years raving about how much better the SawStop was - he had liked the 3650 very much, but Saw Stop was that much better. So my long story is that you should consider their cabinet saw rather than the contractor saw, and as much HP as you can get (at least 3 hp, preferably 5 hp)
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Grand Rapids, MI
    I recommend the 3hp professional series. The industrial line is a big jump in price, but the pro cabinet Sawstops are kinda equivalent to the old 3 hp Unisaws. And as mentioned above, you'll probably never regret more hp. I rip a lot of 8/4 maple on my Unisaw and would never want less than 3 horses.


    No longer associated with Woodcraft. That's right, I am now a full time woodworker!

  5. #5
    I only have a 15 amp motor on my 9" contractor's saw, pushing 1-3/4 hp. It runs fine on 110. But I have a 3 hp motor on my compressor and when running on 110 it tripped the breaker nearly every time it started. I rewired the motor to 220 and haven't had the problem since.

    BTW, power is power, and your saw will consume the same amount of power whether wired to 110 or 220. It will start and run a whole lot easier with 220, though. It doesn't take that much work to run a 220 circuit to the saw, especially if you have a sub-panel in the shop.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    I wouldn't go for less than the 1.75hp PCS. The basic contractor saw doesn't offer much for the price, and by the time you're done adding cast wings and a better fence to it, it's close in price to the PCS.
    Got Wood?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    As the car guys say: "Ain't no replacement for displacement!" Get the 3hp (at least) and the 5hp if your circuits will handle it.
    Jim D.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    new york city burbs
    I have the 1.75 cabinet sawstop, never had any problems with power. Rips any 8/4 I run through it.
    Human Test Dummy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Tokyo Japan
    I've got the 3Hp Industrial unit, before the Pro series existed. I'm running 200v 50 Hz and it is no problem. It was mentioned to me that I might want to change the size of the pulley on the motor of the saw, as my voltage and power levels make the saw run a bit slow, but I've never had a problem ripping 8/4 Maple or Keyaki. The saw I have has a TEFC (?) motor and self adjusts to whatever power is attached to it, brilliant design. I love that saw puts a smile on my face every time I use it, best money I've spent in my workshop in a long time, and I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. Don't skimp on the power, go for the 3 Hp 220v you will not regret it. I have a three phase 2.2Kw motor on my bandsaw that thing just never stops!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
    Will you guys stop messin' with me!

    Every time I get all settled down and happy with my TS somebody has to come up with something to get me all hot for a SawStop cabinet saw.

    Go Away.

    However, you can Enjoy,

    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.

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