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Need help - Chucking my chuck

Rennie Heuer

Rennie Heuer

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This is a follow up to the drill press table build thread.

The last thing I need to do to make my drill press really perform the way I need it to is replace the factory chuck. The chuck that came with the press will not accept a bit under 1/4" in diameter. Note the 5-20 MM marking.

IMG_0759.jpg

I looked at the one suggested by Glenn, and I also found this one on Amazon. Looks like tha Amazon one has very good reviews and a great price.

My dilemma, I've never replaced a chuck before. Is the taper on my press the same as mentioned in the Amazon ad? "1/32-1/2" VME Keyless Drill Chuck, 33 Jacobs Taper mount". My current chuck is labeled "J3". Is that a clue?



IMG_0755.jpgIMG_0757.jpgIMG_0758.jpg

Help!
 
J3 and J33 are distinct and separate taper sizes. So if you don't want to replace the taper you'll need a J3 compatible chuck.

Honestly I'd replace both the chuck and the taper if you can, I can't tell for sure from the pics but there should be a way to be able to push the taper out of your press?
 
Rennie Heuer said:
...My current chuck is labeled "J3". Is that a clue?...Help!
Click to expand...

J3 is a Jacobs #3 taper. It's different than J33. Your DP must be an industrial model, because most home shop DPs are J33 taper - somewhat less robust then J3.

My Powermatic, and my Shop Fox are both J33, btw.

In your first picture, it appears the J3 taper might be machined onto a Morse taper adapter - probably a #2 Morse. Can you remove that from the center of your quill? Usually, if it's a Morse taper adapter, lowering the quill several inches will reveal a slot that you can insert a wedge (MT Removal tool) into to remove the adapter. Your DP might have even come with that removal tool.
 
Ok. That's a start! Thanks guys. I assume you mean this
ry2a4a9y.jpg
 
My baby Delta and floor Delta are JT-3 and as mentioned these are different than JT-33. Your post just previous to this one is the slot where you stick the drift key if you want to remove the arbor. You just want the chuck to come off while leaving the arbor in place although sometimes it is easier to deal with the chuck with the chuck/arbor assembly out of the machine. Tapping with a sledge and a piece of wood (as a pad) on the chuck can dislodge it for you . . . . unless it is stuck. I have a Delta arbor and chuck that I never could get apart but, as the arbor was only about $9, I just bought another one for the keyless chuck.
 
Yep like Glenn said :thumb:

There should have been a wedge shaped piece of metal (drift key) that came with your DP. If you stick it in that hole and give it a tap the Morris taper -> J3 taper should pop right out... hopefully :D

I'm actually a little surprised that the chuck came off of the taper easily, the morris taper usually hold less aggressively than the side facing the chuck (usually one of the Jxx tapers).
 
Rennie Heuer said:
I'll have to go looking for that. I don't remember it.
Click to expand...

I stuck mine to my drill press with a magnet when I first got it. I knew if it wasn't attached to the drill press, I'd lose it.

I did replace the chuck on mine. The original chuck on my DP had some runout, so I had to replace it.
 
Don't buy a new drift key, just make one, they are very simple, a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar around 3/4" wide, maybe 6" long, then cut at an angle along one long edge, clean up with a file, drill a hole in one end to wire it to your DP when done, simple.

15628d1314077287-ridgid-1550-quill-spindle-assembly.gifdd-250x250.jpg

Not rocket science :D


Skip to the 4:50 point to see just how easy it is to remover the taper from the DP.

Putting a good quality chuck on your DP will make it much nicer to use all the time, a good chuck costs real money, but is worth it, IMHO, you get what you pay for!
 
Stuart Ablett said:
...Putting a good quality chuck on your DP will make it much nicer to use all the time, a good chuck costs real money, but is worth it, IMHO, you get what you pay for!
Click to expand...

Here's a place to start. Scroll forward and back a few pages for more info. Albrecht pricing is shockingly high; Rohm a bit more affordable. Then you'll add in the cost of a Morse taper to JT adapter. 'Twon't be cheap in any case. Also, Amazon is your friend here, and perhaps Ebay, too.
 
When I set up my shop I faced the same problem with my dp. Somewhere (not here, I didn't belong to FW yet) I came up with the idea of chucking my big chuck with a small chuck. I bought this and just use when going for the small bits. BTW, no detectable loss of accuracy that I can find.
small chuck.jpg
 
Found it! It was one of those things that I wasn't sure what it was but was sure I shouldn't throw away so it got placed in the drawer of misfit toys. Hoarding can be your friend.
eqamavy7.jpg


So, what I'm looking for now is a quality chuck and a Morris taper 2 to J33 (more common)?

Thanks Jim, Stu and all. Much appreciated advice. So Jim, looks like one of those rohm chucks for around $95 will be a good choice?
 
Rennie Heuer said:
...So Jim, looks like one of those rohm chucks for around $95 will be a good choice?
Click to expand...

They work quite well. I have two of the - one on each DP. The one on the Powermatic has been on there for about ten years, and has worked flawlessly. I have removed it and sprayed it out with Brake cleaner, then re-lubed it, though.

Be careful when seating the chuck to JT, and MT to DP. If you're off even a little bit, runout can be excessive. Everything should just mate up perfectly (and easily) though.
 
I had given thought to this possibility, but was not sure it would work - thanks.

I think I'll go with the new chuck, however. If I get a chuck capable of taking 1/32 to 1/2 then I can sell my small DP (Delta DP200). Selling that and the large chuck I'm removing should easily cover the cost of the new chuck.
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Don't buy a new drift key, just make one, they are very simple, a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar around 3/4" wide, maybe 6" long, then cut at an angle along one long edge, clean up with a file, drill a hole in one end to wire it to your DP when done, simple.

Not rocket science :D
Click to expand...

Making one was my first thought as well as they are pretty simple, but at $2.50... my motivation level to make one is pretty low.
 
Thanks to everyone for the guidance and great info. Special thanks to Jim DeLaney for his recommendations on The Little Machine Shop. Great chuck at a VERY reasonable price.

IMG_0773.jpgIMG_0774.jpg
 
Cool. I've bought a few things from The Little Machine Shop, and have been pleased with everything they've sent me. They're located in Pasadena near my house in LA...one of these days I'd like to go visit them in person (assuming they do retail sales from there).
 
Rennie Heuer said:
Thanks to everyone for the guidance and great info. Special thanks to Jim DeLaney for his recommendations on The Little Machine Shop. Great chuck at a VERY reasonable price...
Click to expand...

Boy, that sure came fast! You just ordered it on Monday, didn't you?

Have you measured the runout? Just curious.

...and Oh Yeah, you're welcome. :D
 
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