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Thread: my first resaw. using 18" jet

  1. #1
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    my first resaw. using 18" jet

    I have had this bandsaw for a while. i never actually used it for much of anything. I purchased it because the price was so good.

    I was thinking re sawing would be more difficult. It was a cinch. Of course this was cedar though it seems pretty hard for cedar. its rather old stuff.

    I faced and edge jointed each board (off course). then I set the stock fence to the appropriate width and sawed away. I did 3 boards. I have them in sets in the picture and the ones on the left of each pair are the faced keepers. the thinner stock on the right of each pair are going to be sanded down for some thin dividers and small drawer boxes.

    I am really impressed with this band saw. I think it cost me $500 (it may have been $400). even at $500 it was a steal.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2421.jpg   IMG_2422.jpg   IMG_2423.jpg  
    Last edited by keith Boutselis; 02-12-2013 at 01:01 AM.

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    Faith, Hope & Charity

  3. #3
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    feels good to have a plan come together huh. or in this case apart
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    feels good to have a plan come together huh. or in this case apart

    Yea. I was all giddy with it. the board just sawed so easy. I think I'm gonna get a piece of maple to try just for the fun of it.

  5. #5
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    Wait, you mean you didn't need a special drift-o-matic add-on fence to cut like that . Re-sawing is a pleasure on a machine that does it well. I'm a big fan of aligning the saw to cut straight and just using the fence aligned straight. I switch blades often and except for tension adjustment, I just put the blade on and go. Fun stuff!
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Wait, you mean you didn't need a special drift-o-matic add-on fence to cut like that . Re-sawing is a pleasure on a machine that does it well. I'm a big fan of aligning the saw to cut straight and just using the fence aligned straight. I switch blades often and except for tension adjustment, I just put the blade on and go. Fun stuff!
    It did come with this large steel dowel. I think it is supposed to attach to the fence as a pivot or something. so you could follow a line in the wood. At least I think i saw a video of it being done that way. Not sure why. the fence worked very well. I would think the dowel method would be sloppy. Thats assuming I even have the right idea about it.

    If I pushed to hard the blade would drift. slow and steady, of course, made the best cut.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith Boutselis View Post
    It did come with this large steel dowel. I think it is supposed to attach to the fence as a pivot or something. so you could follow a line in the wood. At least I think i saw a video of it being done that way. Not sure why. the fence worked very well. I would think the dowel method would be sloppy. Thats assuming I even have the right idea about it.

    If I pushed to hard the blade would drift. slow and steady, of course, made the best cut.
    You've got it. I've seen them called a 'pivot fence' or a 'knife fence'. I even made a version for my saw but haven't used it since I tested it. Some woods can be very lively when re-sawn. I believe they are handy for boards like this that go wonky as they are being cut. I agree on 'slow and steady wins the race'. Have fun and enjoy that saw .
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-12-2013 at 02:00 PM.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
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  8. #8
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    Very cool Keith. Its a great experience resawing and if you got that saw for $500 i would say you got a real bargain.
    cheers

  9. #9
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    I do a lot of resawing. I have a Laguna 16" saw, and usually use either a Resaw King or a Highland Woodslicer blade, getting excellent results with either.

    You might want to put a higher face board on your fence, for better results with wider wood. I've also made a featherboard set that's about 3" above the table. The combination of higher fence and high featherboard makes it much easier to get consistant results.

    If you do have some degree of blade drift, most fences are adjustable to compensate. I've never had really good results with the 'knife' fences, so I prefer the high fence and featherboard combo.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by keith Boutselis View Post
    It did come with this large steel dowel. I think it is supposed to attach to the fence as a pivot or something. so you could follow a line in the wood. At least I think i saw a video of it being done that way. Not sure why. the fence worked very well. I would think the dowel method would be sloppy. Thats assuming I even have the right idea about it.

    If I pushed to hard the blade would drift. slow and steady, of course, made the best cut.
    If your saw is poorly aligned, then you use the point fence - draw a line on the top edge, and your cut is only as good as you are at following the line.

    If your saw is well aligned, you can use the real fence, and in my experience can resaw far straighter and perhaps half as thick. I have no problem cutting 1/16", or even less, off a board.

    If you are interested, see the picture at the bottom of www.solowoodworker.com/mm/bandsaw.html - the left half of the board was resawn by a professional woodworker with an 18" Jet, and the right half was resawn by an amateur (me) with a MM24 bandsaw and a carbide blade.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

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