Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Large wooden table top finish question ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
    Posts
    1,169

    Large wooden table top finish question ?

    At work there is a large wood table top in the break room - the table was made with multiple kinds of wood cut and laminated together in a star pattern - the finish that was there is totally worn off - They asked me if I would be willing to refinish it - I have not decided on the project yet - Because this table gets so much use and wear I was wondering what would be a good finish to maintain and thought I would ask on here for some ideas
    Random orbital sander up to 400 and then hand sand some before the finish ? any thoughts ......thanks Dan
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,475
    i would sand up to 220 and then seal with dewaxed shellac, to avoid any silcon problems that maybe there. then use a hand applied wipe on like glenn uses or spray it with precat lacquer.. bothe will give you a good wear surface.. but to me sanding to 400 is way over kill..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Posts
    5,323
    For heavy wear resistance, I'd sand it to 220, like Larry said, then apply multiple coats of Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Finish, sanding with 320 between coats.

    It ain't the easiest finish to work with, but the results are worthwhile. I did our dining room table with it about sixteen years ago, and it still looks like new.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
    Posts
    1,169
    I agree that sanding to 400 would be over kill if a film finish is going on it - yes i see your point.....220 would be good.......I will look into both finishes and thank you for the advice
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    1,448
    I have a bias towards water based finishes. If you are going to sand the old finish off, to the bare wood, I would stop at 150 or 220. I would then use Target EM1000 sanding sealer (does a good job of popping the color and grain, as well as giving a very smooth base for a finish). Most of the sanding sealer should be sanded off, using 220 or finer. I would then use EM8000cv which is a clear conversion varnish - a harder finish than lacquer.

    The good news is that the 8000 is very easy to spray. The bad news is that, as a varnish rather than a lacquer, the final coat has to be full thickness - no burn in.

    With the sanding sealer mostly sanded off (don't build thickness, but coat and sand until the surface is perfectly smooth), and perhaps two coats of EM8000 you will have a very excellent looking finish - no plastic appearance. But if you want a thicker wear layer because of heavy use, you could use 3-4 or more coats of the conversion varnish.

    A second formula, that I used on a counter in an auto repair shop, would be EM1000 sealer, EM6000 lacquer (because of ease of use), then a final coat or two of EM9300 polycarbonate top coat. After a few years of customers sliding their keys across the counter, it still shows no wear.
    Last edited by Charlie Plesums; 02-18-2013 at 05:37 PM.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Outside the beltway
    Posts
    5,261
    For where it's going I'd go with rock hard finish as suggested. Quick and will last.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Palm Springs, Ca
    Posts
    1,169
    Thanks...............Ill post some pictures of the taable and progress once I get it home to start work on.................
    First you have to learn the rules - Beginner
    Then you have to learn advanced rules - Professional
    Then you disregard the rules - This takes you to the master level................

Similar Threads

  1. Pontoon boat table tops finish question
    By Tom Niemi in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 06-23-2014, 11:34 PM
  2. Large Flat Buck Eye Burl finish Question
    By Dan Mosley in forum Finishing School
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-02-2014, 06:50 PM
  3. Table top finish question
    By Sayer Fancher in forum General Woodworking Q&A
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-11-2013, 01:29 PM
  4. Communion Table & Stands - Large table done!
    By Rennie Heuer in forum Flatwork Project Showcase
    Replies: 103
    Last Post: 06-03-2010, 07:30 AM
  5. Large Burl Table Finishing Question
    By Dan Mosley in forum Finishing School
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-28-2009, 01:53 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •