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Thread: Router plate?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Reno NV
    Posts
    13,360

    Router plate?

    Ok, I need to put together a new router top. The laminate on my current one has come off in a big section and my homemade router plate is just ok, but the hole is not big enough to swing a panel raising big.

    What commercial plates do you like? I'm not looking for a lift, as my current router should work just fine.

    Thanks for your help!
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Southeast Pa
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    2,019
    I don't like a plate anymore. Just mount the router to the top, multiple tops are cheaper than plates..
    \
    And no mater how good the plate it us never as soothe as just mounting the router to the top.

    I am not totally alone in this but there isn't a crowd with this view!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, Missouri
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    13,439
    I've got the rockler aluminum plate with the dedicated porter cable base. I don't leave my router on there, but if it was dedicated, I'd probably just mount it to the top (given I could remove the motor to change bits).
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  4. #4
    Here is one from woodpeckers that will let you spin up to a 3-1/2" diameter bit.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Escondido, CA
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    I'm in the 'mount it directly to the top' crowd.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Reno NV
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    13,360
    Ok, I'm listening now.

    How do you account for the different sized 'holes' I might need for different bits?

    (Maybe I should just go get your book out of the garage)
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  7. #7
    Yea mounting it to the top is fine if all you ever use is small diameter bits. Personally I'll never do it that way again and will go with at the very least a plate with different size inserts if something should ever happen to my existing lift. I use from 1/4" diameter bits thru 3-1/2" diameter bits.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wapakoneta, OH
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    611
    I like having the changeable inserts. My current one is a Woodpeckers...but there are several brands available. I'd suggest you stay with aluminum, it's a little more durable that the phenolic ones. If you do choose phenolic...Woodhaven has some nice ones.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
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    9,076
    We all develop out own methods. I would find it odd to not be able to change out throat inserts to adjust the opening around the bit. I have the Woodpecker with the aluminum inserts but, worked very successfully with the Rockler plates and inserts. The Rockler inserts are a bit fussy as you have to use screws when you swap which may lead to not swapping so . . . maybe not so good. The upside is that you can make your own inserts for the Rockler plates out of 1/8" hardboard so, very inexpensive and infinitely variable. Th original Rockler plates had an opening of something under 3-1/2" inches but, I believe that has been resolved. The Woodpecker opening is around 3-9/16" IIRC.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Escondido, CA
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    Multiple tops.

    My reasoning. An non-interrupted surface along the path of the wood across the cutter is the smoothest. Multiple surfaces along the reference face can leave you sanding out the bumps in the cut. Non a big deal if all you are using a roundover. But if you want to prove it to yourself, use a bevel cutter. The interruptions become real apparent. Again, not a big deal to correct, but more difficult to make it match.. Use a decorative bit with coves, roundovers, shoulders, etc. and sanding becomes a nightmare. However, this all depends on how picky you are with the finished project. As a practical thing, I have three tops and on my table, they are easy to change out. My two cents.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

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