Dust Collector

Paul Douglass

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4,984
Location
S E Washington State
I have the 2hp Harbor Freight dust collector. I've added the filter system from Wynn Environmental and have been very happy with the setup for my little shop. Today it quit! Turned it off, went to turn it back on and nothing. Now I know these have a history of switch failures and I am pretty certain that is the problem. fir those that have had the switch fail, did you try to get a new one through HF or did you do an after market type switch? If I go after market, any recommendations? This is the one I have:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html
 
I have the 2hp Harbor Freight dust collector. I've added the filter system from Wynn Environmental and have been very happy with the setup for my little shop. Today it quit! Turned it off, went to turn it back on and nothing. Now I know these have a history of switch failures and I am pretty certain that is the problem. fir those that have had the switch fail, did you try to get a new one through HF or did you do an after market type switch? If I go after market, any recommendations? This is the one I have:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html

Check the Grizzly catalog they have a lot of different switches that's what I used on my Delta
 
Paul, when you say you have it plugged into a remote "switch" do you really mean a receptacle/outlet? I'm not an electrician, but I believe you could hard wire to a wall switch as long as the circuit breaker doesn't exceed the amp rating for the DC which appears to be 20A, and the wire gauge is suitable for the run distance.
 
I know absolutely zero about motors and switches, but you should check the start capacitor or run capacitor before you replace the switch.
I know mine exploded it was pretty easy to see.
 
I can see where the one terminal on the switch got a little warm. Nothing exploded, just wouldn't start. I checked it with a volt meter and no juice was getting through the switch. I'm pretty sure that is it, and if it isn't, well, I'll never admit it.
 
I'll bet you lunch it was the switch. (You've gotta come to NM to collect on the bet if I lose, though.) The switch on mine (same make and model) went out a year or so into its life. And it was almost never turned on and off, since I have the same type of remote and always left the switch in the On position. I just went to Radio Shack and picked up a toggle switch that was rated for 120v, and bodgered it into the existing switch box. (Sorry, no pics handy.) You should have no trouble getting the Grizzly switch installed. In the meantime, I'd think you could go ahead and put a jumper across the switch terminals and bypass it completely, just using your remote to turn it on and off. Keep in mind it's a 120v circuit, so chose your jumper method accordingly. You don't really want to start a fire right next to the collection bag. :D I think I'd unplug the remote from the wall anytime I wasn't in the shop, too, just to be safe.

Al, the remote Paul is talking about is a box that's plugged into the wall, and the dust collector power cord plugs into the box. The wireless remote triggers a relay of some sort in the box and turns on the DC from anywhere in the room.
 
I'll bet you lunch it was the switch. (You've gotta come to NM to collect on the bet if I lose, though.) The switch on mine (same make and model) went out a year or so into its life. And it was almost never turned on and off, since I have the same type of remote and always left the switch in the On position. I just went to Radio Shack and picked up a toggle switch that was rated for 120v, and bodgered it into the existing switch box. (Sorry, no pics handy.) You should have no trouble getting the Grizzly switch installed. In the meantime, I'd think you could go ahead and put a jumper across the switch terminals and bypass it completely, just using your remote to turn it on and off. Keep in mind it's a 120v circuit, so chose your jumper method accordingly. You don't really want to start a fire right next to the collection bag. :D I think I'd unplug the remote from the wall anytime I wasn't in the shop, too, just to be safe.

+2 :thumb: I'd replace the switch eventually, but bypass would work fine. My dad's 2hp table saw also ran for years off of 20 amp wall switches too, should work fine for this application too. Did the same on my delta until I put the safety stop switch on it.
 
I have a switch ordered and it should be here next week. I say should because I ordered from Grizzly and I am one of the few that has not had a good relationship with them. I'm not going the hardwire route unless the switch doesn't show up. Not planning on much work that would require it for a little while. At my age, I don't breath much dust, because of all the hair that grows out and on my nose! :(:rolleyes::rofl:
 
When I say remote, it is a switch that I can start the DC with from across the room., I ordered a switch from Grizzly. Darn, shipping cost more than the swith!

I have the same HF dust collector and it is plugged into a shop fox remote switch. It has to date lasted longer than the more expensive jet DC I used to have. It never gets turned on unless by remote.
 
I'm not sure turning the switch on and off is what uses them up. One terminal on the switch looks like it got hot, the plastic around it is deformed a little. I know one thing, after having to walk across the room and back all the time to turn it on and off, the remote switch is the only way to go. Money well spent.
 
When I say remote, it is a switch that I can start the DC with from across the room., I ordered a switch from Grizzly. Darn, shipping cost more than the swith!

I'm not sure turning the switch on and off is what uses them up. One terminal on the switch looks like it got hot, the plastic around it is deformed a little. I know one thing, after having to walk across the room and back all the time to turn it on and off, the remote switch is the only way to go. Money well spent.
You can say that again. My DC is in back of my shop but I had the outlet wired to a switch inside. Half the time I wouldn't even turn the DC on. Remote switch changed all that. If i'm going to be more than a minute or two between machines or set up I always turn it off.

Seeing you have the remote, could you just take the switch out and by pass it so it is always on? because it has to be in the on position any way to use the remote.
 
Seeing you have the remote, could you just take the switch out and by pass it so it is always on? because it has to be in the on position any way to use the remote.

I'm very sure I could, but the switch was inexpensive and on the way so I will do it right. I think it would be very easy to wire the remote in, but I would want to build a cover and such to keep dust out of the motor and have it look somewhat professional. It will be quicker to just replace the switch. Well not quicker because I have to wait for it to get here.
 
...If i'm going to be more than a minute or two between machines or set up I always turn it off. ....

Single phase induction motors don't like being started.... the relatively high starting current builds up heat inside the motor. The larger the motor the less they like the starting heat (the longer they take to get rid of the extra heat). One rule of thumb is to not start a motor more than 6 times per hour, but one vendor recommended that their 3 hp motors not be started more than 3 times per hour.

When I got my big machines, I had to learn to leave the 5 hp saw running between most cuts, leave the 5 hp jointer running, etc. I like leaving the DC running between steps (except for the noise) since it filters the shop air better than any dust filter.
 
It was the switch. Plugged in the new switch this A.M. and all is well. I could see there had been some heat in the old switch. Probably because I had been using the dust collector more than usual during my organ project. I had been turning the dust collector on and off between each cut on the table saw. I will not do that anymore.
 
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