My Homemade Bowl Steady

Got one on my list, even stole some wheels off of one of my Grandson's skateboards! He has so many he hasn't even noticed and that was two years ago! Your's is a nice looking one.
 
That looks real good, Mike. :thumb:

Paul, in general, roller blade wheels will work better that skateboard wheels, since they have a rounded tread profile instead of the wide flat profile skateboard wheels typically have. The round profile allows the wheel to still be effective even when it's not perpendicular to the piece you're turning.


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Thanks, Im ready to use it but a lot going on right now...Wife just had back surgery so might be a bit unless MIL comes over and gives me a break.....Ive got a really great MIL!!!!
 
I have plans to build one for my lathe... even already have the roller blade wheels... which by the way were a pain to find... must have visited 1/2 a dozen thrift shops before I found an blades for sale... procrastinating on the build as usual... I've had the wheels for at least 2 years and every time I get into a bowl or hollow form where a steady would benefit the turning, I think -- "gonna have to build one of those, one of these days"
 
having the option to going to a three wheel if needed is a good idea. looks like this setup will serve you well. curious if it will interfere with a laser on a deep hollow?
 
Good info on the wheels Vaughn, makes sense. Now I have to sneak my grandson's wheels back and find a rollerblader. That won't be as easy.

Paul, I have (4) roller blade wheels that were replaced on my wife's NordicTrack elliptical exerciser as part of a free annual maintenance. Although they are used, they all in very good shape. Specs: 3.9" OD x 0.95 Thk at hub x 5/16". If these are of any use to you, I'd be glad to send them to you. Just send me your mailing address.
 
Steady rest wheels and construction

That is a great looking steady you made. It looks truly "steady." Any way the arms can move or vibrate will cause problems so that "steady" is important.

Lets see if I can remember all of the points that might make you want to do a bit of modifying:

Round edged wheels are definitely preferred. Flat wheels will mark any wood that is not a perfect cylinder. If the wood is tapered, only the corner of the wheel (corner = tread to sidewall corner in automobile tire butchered language) will touch the wood. The rest of the tire will be in air.

Flat edged wheels will leave two marks on the wood if you have them located in a cove in the turning. The two outer edges of the wheels will compress wood while the center of the wheel rides on air.

Round edged wheels will also mark the wood if the pressure is too tight on the wood. If possible use the steady on part of the wood that will have some more turning done to it or will have some significant sanding.

The wheels for the small fold-up scooters the kids ride and do tricks on are round edged, have good bearings, and are available many places. They are also quite inexpensive.

Three wheels will, as far as I know, do everything four wheels will do and are one less thing to adjust for minimum wood compression.

I designed my first steady rest to take up to 5 inch diameter wood. Well it was fine for small things like pens and thin candle sticks. However, even though I had a registration pin in addition to my adjusting (and tightening) mechanism, there was too much play for anything of any size or mass. I would tighten the heck out of things but the adjustment would not hold; an arm would move a fraction of a mm in the direction of rotation and throw the center of rotation of the wood off just enough to be trouble.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
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