DIY Shoulder/Chisel Plane

Yeah, not sure about that comment.

I was noticing he left the chisel overhanging the outside edge, is this normal? I'd think that it's would cause some fraying without having the block to force the wood to shear off.
 
Yeah, not sure about that comment.

I was noticing he left the chisel overhanging the outside edge, is this normal? I'd think that it's would cause some fraying without having the block to force the wood to shear off.

I'm no hand tool expert but, I overhang a few thou when I want that action. Unsupported overhang beyond that would lead me to poor results but, that's me :).
 
OK, so a little overhang can be desirable. I'm planning to use a 3/4" chisel, will probably cut the base to 3/4" (maybe 23/32) as well so I can use it for cleaning out 3/4" dado's
 
Maybe you could use an old chisel and cut the blade 3 or 4 inches long. Might be easier to hold and use rather than having the handle of the chisel stick up so high.
Pretty darn cool though :thumb:
 
Maybe you could use an old chisel and cut the blade 3 or 4 inches long. Might be easier to hold and use rather than having the handle of the chisel stick up so high.

That was my thought too, to cut it off. A few months back, I really couldn't have foreseen the need for a shoulder plane, but just on this one simple project I'm seeing the light. I figured I might as well give this one a try before dropping the coin for a commercially made one.
 
Tonight I got one made and it did the job. I need to find a chisel with a longer blade or just order a shoulder plane blade for it. I think I may have the mouth a bit large, but luckily I have plenty of stock to make another or two.

2013-04-15 20.04.48.jpg2013-04-15 20.04.59.jpg
 
Darren also consider that for many planes both metal and wood their are always blades available that can be bought and used for this application.
I have this project on my to do list and purchased a piece of European Beech to use to make it. In my view there is good reason why some specific woods were/are used in applications like this. Not all hardwoods are created equal. I think density and perhaps less elasticity as a result means better harder to flex when wedging and harder sole therefore more consistent and secure setting of blade is my thoughts to making the plane a user.
My guess is the reason for the comment he made would have to relate to how easy it is to setup and get the shaving wanted when in the tight spot.

Lets just take a normal well made wood plane, it has a relatively easy way to pretty precisely set the blade position simply with a tap in front or rear on the body once the blade is approx set. This allows for fine tune.

I would think same can be done in this case. Dunno hence i want to make one.

Perhaps Bill S. will weigh in on his experiences.

I really like the making of tools, more than actual projects. :)

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Darren also consider that for many planes both metal and wood their are always blades available that can be bought and used for this application.
I have this project on my to do list and purchased a piece of European Beech to use to make it. In my view there is good reason why some specific woods were/are used in applications like this. Not all hardwoods are created equal. I think density and perhaps less elasticity as a result means better harder to flex when wedging and harder sole therefore more consistent and secure setting of blade is my thoughts to making the plane a user.
My guess is the reason for the comment he made would have to relate to how easy it is to setup and get the shaving wanted when in the tight spot.

Lets just take a normal well made wood plane, it has a relatively easy way to pretty precisely set the blade position simply with a tap in front or rear on the body once the blade is approx set. This allows for fine tune.

I would think same can be done in this case. Dunno hence i want to make one.

Perhaps Bill S. will weigh in on his experiences.

I really like the making of tools, more than actual projects. :)

I can see how the planes can become addictive and or frustrating. Had to fiddle with it and perfect the stroke technique, but once I got it setup it was a joy to use.

I used some soft maple for this one, and for it's purpose it should be fine. I guess with some woods you may want a wood sole that would be somewhat softer to keep from marring?
 
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