Speaking of saws....................

Al Launier

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Location
Bedford, NH
  • How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw?
  • How many leave it on?
  • How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw?
  • How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw?
 
I'm a bad example. I have a 9" Delta contractor saw. I accompanied my dad when he bought it new in the summer of 1964. It came without a guard of any kind, and I have never put one on it. There is no way to install a splitter. I've seen a pic of a dust collector for it, but I haven't made one. Actually, in 50+ years I've never used a saw that had a guard of any kind. Before I retire I'm getting a SawStop. My reflexes aren't getting any quicker.:D
 
How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw? Me

How many leave it on? See above

How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw? Me

How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw? Helps but doesn't get it all by any means
 
I've never opened the box on my safety guard, so technically it was never removed. ;)

I do use dust collection now. I could use some improvements to the closing up the saw and making it more efficient, but it does very well, mostly larger chips thrown from the top side. I will be eventually adding an overhead collection and the chips should be very, very minimal at that point..

I also plan to add a riffing knife at some point.
 
I mounted my blade guard once just to see what it looked like. For me - and the way I use a table saw - the blade guard causes more safety issues than it solves. It's in the way and it doesn't let me see exactly where the blade is at all times. I do use a Microjig splitter and Grr-ripper when I'm making rip cuts, but neither of them are compatible with the blade guard that came with the saw.

For dust collection on my TS3650, I removed the original blade shroud and enclosed the bottom with plywood, then installed a 4" DC port there. I also sealed (to the extent possible) the open back of the saw with magnetic vinyl sign material. It works OK, but doesn't catch everything.
 
the blade/dust guard on the sawstop works excellent. I built my own piping connected to the 4 inch port at the bottom of the saw.

I only take off the guard when Im running dados.
 
I do not use a guard on my saws and never will. I have 2 unisaws, one for ripping that has a power feeder attached so that serves as a guard. One is set up for using dado with no guard. My saw stop is where I do most of my close work and I didn't ever install the guard that came with it but I do use the riving knife and like it a lot. I use dust collection on all of my saws with great success however never even near 100% collection. I still have to sit down in the floor and clean the cabinets out once in a while even with the sawstop.
 
Any of those responding that they do not use the stock plastic guard should clarify that statement.

We ALL KNOW to:
- Use a guard whenever possible.
- Use a splitter whenever possible
- Use good quality, well designed push blocks whenever possible

To do otherwise is to invite injury. To respond to someone asking about the importance of safety devices in any way that belittles their importance is irresponsible. We're not a bunch of ignorant, slack-jawed, knuckle-draggin troglodytes around here you know . . . . well OK, . . . maybe I am . . . . But, the rest of you aren't.

The fact is that many commercial splitter/guard combinations that come on contractor class saws (and larger, more expensive machines in many cases) can add danger rather than protect you from it due to poor design. This results in a blanket distrust or nay-saying when asked about their use. Many current maker's splitter/guard offerings are very usable but, it is very easy to get stuck on stupid and not use the good ones just because the bad ones were bad. Don't be that guy.

If the blade, belt or fence that came on your saw was poor, you would upgrade it. If the guard that comes with your saw is poor, upgrade it. Since we all make our own zero clearance inserts anyway, I settled on the MJ-Splitter for a splitter (use a splitter for EVERY cut that you can use one with). I had closed in the under table area for dust collection and added an overarm guard / collector. I used the guard on every cut that I could.

Some things to remember:

You don't need to see the blade. The blade is right where it always is; it doesn't move except to spin. Seeing the blade while making a cut does nothing to help you. Your material cannot be adjusted "on the fly", that's one of the primary ways that kickback is born. Your material is moved in a straight line via your miter gauge, your sled, fence, tenon jig, etc. If the material isn't flat and cannot be controlled along a straight line for the cut, go to the bandsaw. Your hand never come within more than a few inches of the blade so, you do not need to see the blade during a cut IMHO.

Counting that cut you are about to make without a splitter as "just this once" becomes much harder with less fingers. Always use a splitter for any through cut. Always use a guard whenever you can. The internet is full of pictures and stories of people who ignored basic safety practices "just this once". I will now relenquish the soapbox to the next speaker :D.
 
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•How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw? I removed the OEM guard, and added a Delta Uniguard, with Biesemeier splitter. Much better!

•How many leave it on? See above...


•How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw? I have a DC connected, but it's not very effective.


•How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw? You've really gotta work at it - lotsa suction under the table, and some sort of suction in the guard, too. Even then,it won't be that great.
 
No idea where my guard is. I made my own riving knife/splitter almost always use that. I also have the MJ splitter and use it as well.

dust collection is fair. 4" line at bottom of the saw. Nothing over the blade but that is on my to do list.
 
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  • How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw?
    I take mine off. The guard/splitter thingy is far more dangerous than just having a blade sticking out of a table
  • How many leave it on?
    see above
  • How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw?
    if I'm making a quick cut, I don't bother turning it on, but if I'm ripping more than one board I click on the dust collection if it isn't already.
  • How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw?
    I'd say most are pretty decent. If you doubt it, cut a bunch of stuff with the DC off and see how quickly the base fills up.
 
Your hand never come within more than a few inches of the blade so, you do not need to see the blade during a cut IMHO.


You wouldn't like working in my shop. I'd smack you if I saw you using a push stick on a 3" rip.:rofl: I routinely will cut things down to 1" without a push stick, those things are flippin' dangerous, and its extremely rare I use one. If its uncomfortably narrow, I cut part way through, pull it off the blade, flip, and finish the cut.


The only way to cut something on a blade is to put it in the blade. It ain't rocket surgery, don't want to cut your digits off" Don't stick them in the blade, or put them in a position where they could get dragged into or fall into the blade.

One ER visit in 14 years of working in cabinet shops. From having my head up my rear and using a bandsaw. Worst woodworking injury to date was from putting a chisel entirely through a finger. Being stupid is expensive and sometimes painful.
 
How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw? it had one, it is in the shop somewhere, with the plastic guard and 2 sets of anti-kickback teeth, it was more of a pain at the end of a cut as the whole thing was in the way.

How many leave it on? once removed, never went back on.

How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw? i use the jet dust collector hooked up to the port at the back of the saw, with a 4 inch hose.

How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw? works pretty good, but doesn't get it all, never expected it to.
 
How many of you remove the safety guard from your table saw? I keep mine on. Always.

How many leave it on? The only time it's off is when the dado blade's mounted... and I avoid using the saw for dadoes.

How many use a dust collector of any kind on a table saw? Yep. And an air cleaner for the shop. And an extra fan blowing out the open door.

How effective is any dust collection device/system on a table saw? I wish it did better. Seriously considering a reconfiguration.

I'm curious why you're asking?

Best,

Bill
 
WOW! This thread generated a lot more responses than I expected, but then again that's why I frequent this forum - everyone wants to help!

The old Sears TS I had never had a guard of any sort on it & I have to admit that with ~40 years of using it I've always had a "safety fear" when using it. I never pushed the limits, especially with narrow cuts. I never had a push pad, but always would use a home-made push stick when appropriate. One concern I always had/have when using a carbide blade is the fear of a tooth breaking off & flying who knows where. Never happened on my TS, but I've seen it happen in a machine shop. I usually wear safety glasses, or even a full face shield if I feel the need.

So, with the safety guards & splitters & anti-kickback device I've seen on the TS at stores, I felt that they were poorly designed & would be more troublesome than helpful. I wondered what you guys did, anticipating that you wouldn't like the standard guards either.

........................................

I'm curious why you're asking?

Best,

Bill
...............................

The concern I have is probably the same as for most in that I want to keep the dust down, especially since my workshop is immediately next to a finished living area, with only a door's separation, & my wife is anal about cleanliness & odors. Not knocking that, as I think that's a good thing, but I prefer to keep things clean & "quiet" as well. A while back I "burned" a piece while ripping with the wrong blade and the smell was rampant, working it's way throughout the lower level. Trust me when I say it didn't escape my wife's notice. ;)

Once the TS arrives, I'll look more closely at the guard setup it has & will go from there. I like some of the suggestions regarding boxing in below the saw (as I did on my previous saw) the overhead dust collection systems. Perhaps I'll make one from PVC & a flex hose that attaches to my Dust Deputy vacuum.
 
You wouldn't like working in my shop. I'd smack you if I saw you using a push stick on a 3" rip.:rofl: ...

Even on wider cuts I'm not real comfortable running the stock through the saw bare-handed. But I've had more close calls with a push stick than I'd like to count. I hate 'em, because they don't give a firm, solid hold of the wood that's being cut. I do feel comfortable with a push block like the Grr-ripper because I have better control of the wood as it goes through the blade, resulting in a better cut. When I was making fancy cutting boards a few years ago I was ripping a lot of thin (1/8" and 1/4") strips and getting a glue-ready cut. A push stick would have been real dicey for thin strips like that, and if I did use one, the cut wouldn't be nearly as smooth as what I can get with the Grr-ripper.
 
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