Table Saw Kick Switch

Bill Arnold

1974
Staff member
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Location
Thomasville, GA
Tablesaw Kickswitch

This is another one of those things I've wanted to add for many years and finally took time to do it. Nothing fancy. Just a few pieces of scrap 1/2" plywood. The vertical pieces from the hinges are a single layer; the horizontal piece is two layers.

I removed the fence rail so I could work from the top side of both it and the steel angle. I drilled through the steel angle at the hinge positions, then drilled and tapped the fence rail for 1/4-20 hex bolts. After loosely re-installing the rail, I mounted the hinges and tightened all bolts.

The opening at the ON switch allows for easy access. I added a block of plywood to the back of the left panel to engage the STOP switch.

Oh, yeah -- it's RED! I sprayed a few coats of shellac -- about 1.5lb cut -- to seal the plywood. I had a little of the mix left so I grabbed the TransTint Red dye and went for it! :thumb:
 

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Bill that is one of those things I plan on doing someday. I think about it each time I fumble trying to shut it off! You made a nice addition to your saw. Do you think you will be able to find it???? Thanks for sharing it.
 
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Wow, that IS big :eek:, and a great idea. :thumb: I bought an aftermarket switch from ebay for my delta. not nearly as big of a paddle, but in one of the top upgrades I've done to my TS.
 
THAT is one big honken off switch!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Yep, that's one way to put it! I thought about adding a single paddle at the switch so I could reach over with my foot and tap it. But, I occasionally cut wide panels or otherwise find myself farther from the switch than I can comfortably reach when near the maximum position of my 52" fence. With this "thing", all it takes is a toe tap from any position. :)
 
Bill I think you have thought this through well. I initially also thought wow thats a huge switch. Then i got to thinking trouble with the switches is they are all mounted on what i consider to be the other side of the cut line. If you need to reach across in anyway to get to it one stands the chance of being in the kickback line.

With your switch you dont have to move regardless of where you set yourself to saw.

Kudos to you. :thumb:
 
Hi,
Just to give "Do it yourself" guys something else to consider---Here are switches I made. Do NOT get me wrong I think Bill's switch is super---And I LOVE the red.

I cut my panels with a circle saw on the driveway so wrestling big sheets is not a Jim problem. Well actually it is, that is why I use the circle saw. It is pretty bad when the sheet of ply weighs almost as much as I do; I think MDF weighs more.

One pic is the 17" BS, one is the 14" BS and one the lathe.

I can reach the lathe kick switches from anyplace that I would normally use the machines except when ripping a long board. The lathe switch is really a hand or knee switch and runs most of the length of the lathe. The lathe and 14" BS switches trip very easily. The Griz BS is a commercial unit that takes a small sledge hammer to turn on or off. It takes a significant push to turn the machine on. However, with the paddle leverage, a light push with hand or foot turns it off and that is the important operation.

I think the pics will explain what I have done and perhaps help someone else. Dang it. I sure could use some red shellac or lacquer.

Enjoy,
JimB
 

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Hey Bill, do you have any objection to me moving the old thread over to this new subforum and merging it with this one?
 
Do you ever accidently kick the switch?

I prefer the switch being on the left side of the saw. It's harder to reach switches mounted on the right side (as in older saws) of the blade as it is usually covered by the most of the ply you are trying to cut. I have no problems as I push thru with diagonal pressure (forward & against the fence).

The parts that are affected by kickback is the part being cut to size between the blade & the fence. The outside falloff (usually left side of blade) will just stop.
 
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