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Thread: Storing Fresh Cut Maplle??

  1. #1
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    Storing Fresh Cut Maplle??

    Here are some pics of some maple I just recently cut. I have it all coated with anchorseal and lying on the side under a tarp for now. I know ideally rough turn it asap but for me that will be a slow go. I will get to it a piece at a time as I work a lot and have other stuff going on. I guess I should get it off the ground and keep it covered ??? Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    that looks like hard maple and some spalting in that looks real nice but the turnes are better suited to tell you what is best for your maple
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  3. #3
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    Anchorseall will help especially if you put on two coats but the best thing to do is to cut the pith out of it. I generally cut a 1/2" on either side of the pith then anchorseal the ends. The pith is where the cracks emminate from. If I can't cut the pith out I generally leave the logs about 6 to 8 inches longer than the diameter so that way when I cut the cracks off on the ends I will have 3 to 4 inches on each end to cut off to fresh wood.
    Bernie W.

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  4. #4
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    I'll second what Bernie said. Even if you don't have time to turn it right now, I'd recommend making the time to cut each chunk into two half cylinders wile cutting the middle of each (the pith) out of them. That will greatly reduce the potential for cracking.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Weishapl View Post
    Anchorseall will help especially if you put on two coats but the best thing to do is to cut the pith out of it. I generally cut a 1/2" on either side of the pith then anchorseal the ends. The pith is where the cracks emminate from. If I can't cut the pith out I generally leave the logs about 6 to 8 inches longer than the diameter so that way when I cut the cracks off on the ends I will have 3 to 4 inches on each end to cut off to fresh wood.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    I'll second what Bernie said. Even if you don't have time to turn it right now, I'd recommend making the time to cut each chunk into two half cylinders wile cutting the middle of each (the pith) out of them. That will greatly reduce the potential for cracking.
    and I'll third what they both said, cut the pith out!
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  6. #6
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    This maybe a no brainer...But when you slice/rip the trunk can you obviously see what is the pith? I have only done this on a magnolia but nothing this size...I saved some of it and lost some of it.....hmmmm probably didnt remove enough of the pith maybe

  7. #7
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    Really an 1" or an 1 1/2" wide board out of the middle of your two halves that contains the pith is all you need to remove.

    You can still get cracks, that is the nature of wood, but I find they are a LOT less when I get the pith out!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
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  8. #8
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    Mike, with most woods, the pith looks pretty much just like the heartwood. if you remoe and inch or two from the very middle of the rings, that should take care of the majority of the cracking.

    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
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  9. #9
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    Has anybody ever tried to drill it out ??? Maybe an impossible feat ? ,.....EDIT CRAZY IDEA ! Ill do as a lot turners have suggested ...cut a 1 1/2" wide piece with the pith and maybe use it as platter...when I can get a chainsaw to use besides my electric which cuts great but this is over its head so to speak !
    Last edited by Mike Turner; 05-12-2013 at 03:05 PM.

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE

    You can still get cracks, that is the nature of wood, but I find they are a LOT less when I get the pith out![/QUOTE]


    A heap less!

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