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Thread: so far so good but there is still time . . .

  1. #1
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    so far so good but there is still time . . .

    Going to be unable to turn for a few days, maybe a week or more so I have been trying to square a few things away. Made a bunch of glue blocks and such. I also noticed the shavings I had to slow the drying of my roughed out bowls was soaking wet, not what I had in mind. Some spalting, I don't see any of the really annoying mold taking over yet. This is an end grain heart cherry piece. Don't know why I decided to turn it end grain or why I used such a big nasty tenon. Everything else is cosmetic, lines and such rather than repairs or cracks. The bowl is 5.5"x2.5" without the tenon and was deliberately left thick on the bottom inside and out so I can tuck the bottom under when I get another chance to work with it. No quick way to reverse hold it today so I just stopped where I was at.

    A little bit of sanding with 150 grit, two thin coats of brush on lacquer wiped on with a rag. Then I burnished the bowl with a serving spoon from the kitchen. Hand burnishing so it seemed to work OK. Then I put on about a half-dozen coats of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax buffing between coats. The goal is to try to prevent significant warping where I still have to work, have to see how that pans out.

    Hu
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bowl in progress 003post.jpg   bowl in progress 008post.jpg  

  2. #2
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    so far so good but there is still time . . .

    So far so good, Hu. Regarding the big tenon, the diameter isn't really an issue, but the length can be. You want to be sure the end of the tenon isn't touching the bottom of the jaws on your chuck. Instead, the front edge (aka the shoulder) of the jaws should be touching the bottom of the bowl. This provides a more stable and safer hold.

    I'm on my phone now, but I'll try to remember to post a pic or two later to illustrate what I mean.


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  3. #3
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    Vaughn,

    I do understand about the tenon touching. Fortunately OneWay put exactly 1/2" extension on these jaws so I usually make my tenons about 7/16" and make sure I can see daylight behind the tenon with a shoulder seated firmly against the chuck. I also always cut a flat shoulder for the chuck jaws to ride against. The diameter of the tenon is just a design issue, hard to make a nicely shaped bowl with that big of a tenon in the way. Turned a handful of bowls a month or two ago to let dry some and second turn them and find I have forgotten details of each bowl. This one has all of the sap wood turned off of it for some reason so I'm sure that is why the tenon is so big, the blank was much bigger. Could still have gotten away with a smaller tenon holding an end grain turning and used the tailstock to help support it while turning that much off but I suspect removing all of the sapwood was a decision made after I had turned the blank awhile.

    Hu

  4. #4
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    That should come out great Hu! To add to what Vaughn suggested, a longer tenon also means more to turn off. Turning down tenons is always a little dicey and can be, although not always, a little unstable so the less you have to remove, the better.
    Your Respiratory Therapist wears Combat boots

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Burr View Post
    That should come out great Hu! To add to what Vaughn suggested, a longer tenon also means more to turn off. Turning down tenons is always a little dicey and can be, although not always, a little unstable so the less you have to remove, the better.
    Jim,

    It is a matter of pure cowardness. With this new wave style jaw for the Talon chuck each tooth that bites gives a little extra insurance and I am new to wood turning and chucking wet wood. My catches are much smaller now and always when final hollowing when much of the weight is gone so maybe I could reduce the length of my tenon. I will start easing them a little shorter on most pieces of wood.

    Fixing to give glue blocks a try too. Something else that scares me to be honest. I have trouble trusting any type of glue or adhesive.

    Hu

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hu lowery View Post
    ...I have trouble trusting any type of glue or adhesive...
    As long as you have good, flat mating surfaces on face grain wood, the glue joint will be stronger than the wood itself. (Using yellow carpenter's glue, or even white glue like Elmer's.) Of course, that doesn't hold true for a glue block on end grain. I wouldn't trust that one either.

    Good that you already know about the tenon length thing.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

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