Specs on HF Foot Switch

Al Launier

Member
Messages
1,683
Location
Bedford, NH
Recently I read an older post (http://familywoodworking.org/forums...able-Saw-on-off-switch&highlight=sto[p+switch) that recommended a HF foot switch (http://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html) as a quick access kill switch. I thought that was a great idea for my TS, but could not determine the specs from the HF web site to see if it would handle the amp load. So, I contacted them for specifics. It took longer than I expected to get a response (sometimes impatient when hot on a project), so I picked up the Grizzly switch that was also recommended (http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243).

I installed the Grizz Switch as shown (not completed yet as I used available wood that leaves an unsightly "notch" - will be fixing shortly for a better appearance).

In any event, I recently received the specs on the HF foot and am enclosing the email response from HF here in case anyone can use it.

"Dear Al,

Thank you for your recent inquiry.

The following information is directly from our technical notes on this item.

FOOT SWITCH DIMENSION: 6-3/8"L X 3-1/2"W X 2-3/4"H
MOUNTING HOLE DIAMETER: 0.188 IN. (QTY-2)
VOLTAGE: 110V (STATED) AMP: 15A POWER CORE LENGTH: 7FT. 5 IN.

Please include all previous correspondences when replying.

Thank you,

Tommy
Product Support
Harbor Freight Tools
3491 Mission Oaks Blvd
Camarillo, CA 93012
1-888-866-5797

HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS
Quality Tools at Ridiculously Low Prices

This e-mail, its content and any files transmitted with it are intended solely for the addressee(s) and are PRIVILEGED and CONFIDENTIAL. Access by any other party is unauthorized without the express prior written permission of Harbor Freight Tools. If you have received this e-mail in error you may not copy, disclose to any third party or use the contents, attachments or information in any way. Please delete all copies of the e-mail and the attachment(s), if any and notify the sender. Thank You


From:
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2013 5:29 PM
To: Tech Support (Customer Service)
Subject: Specs on Foot Switch



I am interested in purchasing a foot switch for use as a quick shut off for my table saw which is 110VAC, 1 1/2 HP, 15Amps.



The switch I'm interested in is your Item# 96618 as advertised at http://www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html. I cannot tell if the specs on this switch is adequate for my application. Please advise me of the actual electrical specifications for this item.



Thank you,

Al Launier"
 

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Wouldn't it be better over on the left side of thew saw where you would stand if ripping sheet goods you wouldn't be able to access it while ripping a full sheet.

Here are pics of my 2 saws.
 

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Al, I'm curious what that switch provides that the factory switch doesn't. :huh: I've got that same saw, and have the factory switch mounted where I can bump it with my left thigh to shut down the saw. Since I'm using Incra fence rails instead of the factory rails, I did have to come up with a way to mount the switch, but I just set it up to where it's easy to hit with my leg.

Switch Mount.jpg
 
Thanks Bart, I'll give that a try. It'll be easy to loosen the wing nuts & slide the switch to the left.

Vaughn, with the factory switch in it's original location I had trouble finding the switch as it was tucked under the rail because it really didn't protrude enough. Again, it probably would have been better on the LH side. When the fence was above it, I had to look for the switch under the rail as the fence hid it. I do like the new switch arrangement as it sticks out enough to be easily seen and or "kneed" to turn the saw off. I really like the paddle - easy!

One thing I would like to do is to find a way to stop the blade after turning it off. It takes 10-15 sends to come to a complete stop. On a previous post Brent has devised a way to use a bike's brake caliper to squeeze the blade for a quick stop. I may look into that option, or others if I can find some.

To add an additional comment in regards to Vaughn query, and perhaps more to the point of his question as I really didn't answer it properly: If I had made the wooden bracket to accommodate the original factory switch, the Ridgid Off button doesn't stick out as much as the Grizz Paddle switch; in fact it's flush with the housing & therefore I would be unable to shut off the saw with my knee.
 
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Wouldn't it be better over on the left side of thew saw where you would stand if ripping sheet goods you wouldn't be able to access it while ripping a full sheet.

Here are pics of my 2 saws.

Bart, I liked your suggestion & implemented it. It also keeps the switch away from the crank handles, provides an unobstructed view of the verniers & I routed the cable behind the saw while I was at it. Much cleaner, more effective, & much better! Thanks for the suggestion. :thumb:
 

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That should work great, Al. That's about where my switch is in relation to the blade, too. I had forgotten that in the factory configuration the switch is kind of tucked under the rail. When I changed my rails I bodged together something to keep the switch more leg-accessible, much like you've done. :thumb:
 
Switches

Hi,

Here are some pics of my "knee"/ "foot" switches.

1 My Jointer. I use a foot switch here. HF about $10. I have been using it for years.

2 My Table saw. Notice how I used a very wide, light weight, paddle. The thing is big. I can kick it from anyplace in front of the saw.

3 The lathe. Notice the strip of flooring running horizontally, just under the lathe. The lightest touch on this kills the motor. It has been in use for years.

4 Delta 14" BS. Again, I am using a light weight paddle. It is not as large as some of my other paddles. However, it is large enough that I can reach it easily from anyplace that I stand when using the saw.

5 17" Grizzly BS. Since I used their switch, up on the column, I had to make a larger knee switch. The paddle is a strange shape to reduce weight and still keep the paddle where I can hand, knee or kick it easily as I work. Notice the strip of wood running from top to bottom of the paddle on the left. This was to offset the flex in the non-tempered peg board used to make the paddle.

I far prefer light weight paddles. Heavy paddles have a tendency to swing back with enough force to turn the saw off again. Don't Ask Me How I Know This. Heavy paddles can put some pressure on the "off" part of the switch so you think the machine is off, HOWEVER, the off button is only pushed part way in by the weight of the paddle. I found out about that when the TS turned itself on when I was 20 feet from it.

I hope this was helpful.

Enjoy,
JimB
 

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One thing I would like to do is to find a way to stop the blade after turning it off. It takes 10-15 sends to come to a complete stop. On a previous post Brent has devised a way to use a bike's brake caliper to squeeze the blade for a quick stop. I may look into that option, or others if I can find some.
.


Al,
I don't think I'd ever consider trying to put a brake on my table saw blade. Sound incredibly dangerous to me. I think Brent put it on a Radial arm saw. I'm not really sure though.

If the spinning blade bothers you just lower it into your saw.
 
Appreciate your concern Bob.

What I had in mind was a co-ax cable & brake assembly from a bicycle whereby the squeeze handle would be located next/attached to the kill switch bracket with the cable running under the table to the caliper. The calipers would be mounted under the table & attached somehow to the blade housing in some manner that would allow it to tilt & travel with the blade as needed. This may be a fool's dream, but one never knows????? :rolleyes: Maybe apply one similar to http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mx100...r_1_2?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1378338141&sr=1-2
 
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