Goose Unisaw from 1940's vs a 1-1/2 hp or 2hp Powermatic 66 form the 50's?

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I will be building me a 12x20 garage for storage, I hope to carve out me a little space to do some woodworking I am wondering what would be the best old arn table saw to get for my new garage it will replace my RAS. I am looking at getting a goose egg unisaw with a 3/4hp to 1hp motor or and old Powermatic 66 with and 1 1/2 hp or 2hp motor. I will building me a set of kitchen cabinets for my first house and some furniture.
 
My vote is for the Powermatic 66 I had one in my production shop and it was a real work horse and I loved that saw. I now have a UniSaw and HATE it. Look for at least 3hp in the 66 I dont think they made that model with anything smaller. It just a more comfortable saw to work at. Find one with a Biesemeyer fence and you will be a HAPPY man.
 
Jay

I'm trying to understand why you don't like your Unisaw. As far as I know the PM differences are a deeper table by 2". & a heavier trunnion the throat plate I think is positioned differently.

I have nothing against the PM & yes I do have a Unisaw with a Grizzly Biesemeyer style fence & 3 HP motor.
 
Jay

I'm trying to understand why you don't like your Unisaw. As far as I know the PM differences are a deeper table by 2". & a heavier trunnion the throat plate I think is positioned differently.

I have nothing against the PM & yes I do have a Unisaw with a Grizzly Biesemeyer style fence & 3 HP motor.

One of the problems with the UniSaw is mine is a right tilt (to dangerous) I have the Uni-Fence and just dont care for it. Its to hard to set and keeps coming out of it locking point every time you move it and just dose NOT work smooth like the Biez. The Blade is also at a different distance from the front of the saw than the 66. I found the 66 to be a lot more comfortable to operate and the Switch is in a better location the Uni is just Wrong in my opinion and thats all it is,is an opinion
 
One of the problems with the UniSaw is mine is a right tilt (to dangerous) I have the Uni-Fence and just dont care for it. Its to hard to set and keeps coming out of it locking point every time you move it and just dose NOT work smooth like the Bies. The Blade is also at a different distance from the front of the saw than the 66. I found the 66 to be a lot more comfortable to operate and the Switch is in a better location the Uni is just Wrong in my opinion and that's all it is,is an opinion


I think that's where the other 2 inches were used in front of the throat plate. As to the right tilt I was raised with Craftsman left tilt so I understand how you feel.

I scooted my fence rail over to the left just over 24" so I can move the fence to the left of the blade & rip with the blade tilted away from the fence. Heck that Bies style 52" Grizzly fence system has to be worth something. I am still able to rip lower cabinet sides with the fence on the right side of the blade. I also mounted the switch to the left of the saw with a knee board shut off.

When I get into a new shop I also have the 1950's Gold addition Craftsman TS that was my Dad's. I wish I had $10 for each piece of material Dad cut or ripped on this saw. I hope to set up both saws out-feeding onto a common table.
 

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I've got a Powermatic 65 (predecessor to the 66) and love it. If you happen across one, it may be worth a look. That said, there are some other choices if you want a serious saw with a small footprint. Atlas, older Craftsman, Walker Turner, Duro, and i believe Davis Wells all made cabinet saws with the motor under the table (not hanging out the back). There was also a DeWalt badged version of one of the Atlas models. Great saws. The "Junior Unisaw" is also a great machine, albeit with an 8" blade. We found one for my Dad, and after using it, he kicked his 10" Delta out the door. He doesn't rip 4" material on his table saw, and the Uni Jr. handled 3" thick stock a lot better than his newer 10" saw. I'm not recommending any of these options over the two you listed, but i wouldn't exclude them if you came across one in decent condition.
They all cut wood, and well when tuned up. I have my preferences, but shy away from the "Ford vs. Chevy" debates. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. A lot may just depend on what you find. Expanding to include other good options might help.
Good luck with the hunt.
 
I have a Unisaw also...mainly because I couldn't find a used PM 66 when I got ready to upgrade to a cabinet saw. I'm perfectly satisfied and love my Uni but would trade for a 66 in a heartbeat. We had a PM 66 in the shop where I worked and I tried for 37 years to wear it out. Never did! The only thing I can ever remember doing to it was change the belts. It was still going strong when I retired. Great saw!
 
I know several woodworkers just like me. It one problems with old iron it the blade guard. I have a 25 year old General 350. And it is just a pain to put on and take off the guard so I lfinally just left it off. One can argue that you always know where the blade is, which is hard to see with the metal guard. I also have a friend who tried to cut his thumb of on a powermatic. Delta's aren't exempt either. My did used to say to me do as I say not as I do. So it is eazy to give advise. With that in mind I borrowed some money to buy the General brand new. I chose it over a uni in a heart beat, after looking at the trunions and things.

But now it is 25 years later and I an 69 and I don't move and bend as well as I used to. I would hate to sell the general for what i could get out of it because it is such a great saw and it is even harder when you are on a fixed income. I would have to sell it to get something else. But I wrestle with this because I believe the sawstop is the saw to have even if one had to barrow the money like I did. But the fixed income doesn't help that problem. I guess I am trying to saw if you haven't already bought an old saw it is even less expencive to by a saw stop. In this case it is like buying insurance for your belongings.

I am starting to sell off a lot of my things because my time is getting short, and with that statement, I just bought some old iron, a bandsaw, and I think it was a great buy, but a left tilt tablesaw with all the safety features is hard not to pay attention to. Did I mention really good dust collection. If I was 60 or younger it would be a no brainer.
 
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