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Thread: Shop floor decision and Update

  1. #1
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    Shop floor decision and Update

    For my Barn project I'm going to be using 2x6's 12" on center with doubled up boards around the rim. I'll be putting down 3/4" PT as the initial floor (wood floor to follow as budget allows.
    This is what the plans call for; actually they specify 16" on center, but since I'll have tools rolling around in there, figure a few more joists won't hurt. I'm planning on putting in blocking between the joists as well. How much and how far apart is the question. I'm figuring on 4' apart running the length of the building. Is that going to be sufficient or should I plan on more?
    Thanks guys, working on the budget here, and need to figure in the extra boards.

    see my post from 4/7
    Last edited by Ned Bulken; 04-08-2007 at 01:32 AM.
    -Ned

  2. #2
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    ned, adding beams under the 2x6`s would offer much more support than blocking!....blocking or "x" bracing is used to stop the joists from rolling over under load and really don`t help carry the load....whereas if you install a built-up beam or two crossways to the joists you`ll effectively shorten the span of each joist giving you a much stiffer floor....tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tod evans View Post
    ned, adding beams under the 2x6`s would offer much more support than blocking!....blocking or "x" bracing is used to stop the joists from rolling over under load and really don`t help carry the load....whereas if you install a built-up beam or two crossways to the joists you`ll effectively shorten the span of each joist giving you a much stiffer floor....tod

    Ditto
    A very wise man once said.......
    "I'll take my chances with Misseurs Smith and Wesson. "

  4. #4
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    My 12 X 20 barn sits on four 4 X 6 pressure treated 'sleepers,' so that the 2 X 6's are supported every four feet. That makes the floor very solid. I also used " material for the flooring, screwed every six inches.
    Jim D.

  5. #5
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    What's the reason for double rim joists?

    I went 2x8's on 12" centers, with one row of blocking down the center, mostly to control the bow of the 2x8's. Then added 3/4" t&g plywood flooring, screwed down with Liquid Nails under the plywood.

    Floor does not move or squeak and I could probably park the car on it, if I could get it through the door.

  6. #6
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    Ned,

    (Not a contractor or experienced builder, I'll defer to Steve there, just asking questions)

    Do you really need PT plywood for the floor? It's not going to be coming into contact with the soil.

  7. #7
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    I was going to ask about the doubled rim board too, but Carol beat me to it.

    Easiest way to block for twisting is to use offcuts from your joists, if you have them long enough. If not, crossed 2x4's work well- thats what I was using the nasty, almost cull, lumber from the big supplier for.

    Have you done an span-looking up? I found a nice span calculator online if you're interested, lets you adjust for species and wet conditions. Other thing to note with workshops is that though machinery is technically a live load, its kinda more like a dead point load and could use some beefing up below. Extra blocking would help too, but its good to put any better lumber you get in the package under your heavier machines if you have any.

  8. #8
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    First off, thanks all for the help and the interest, this is a HUGE step for me, and I know my limitations.

    Tod,
    I asked that last night without my plans on hand. They spec additional 2x6's cut to fit between the joists, presumably to keep the joists from rolling.
    I 'm really beat tonight, but I'll have questions galore in the morning,

    One thing, though, the barn is designed not to need a poured floor, it spec's 4x6 PT. I was going to use paired 2x6's because I could get 4x6x12, but not 4x6x16. Now that I'm going with 20' for the long dimension, I think I'm going to go with 4x6 since I can get 10' easily enough. (going on 20 hours up right now, so bear with me).
    The barn is designed to be built on grade over crushed stone or gravel or piers. If I go with concrete deck piers every 4' on the perimeter (and at the middle of the 20' span) and also supporting the joists every 4' in the middle, will that help spread out the load? OR should I just go with 4x6 sleepers as Jim did over the crushed stone? (I Like that solution, actually, think I may just go with that) (after I sleep on it)

    As for why PT ply, call it hedging my bet, our water table is relatively high, and while I'll be putting in gravel over landscape cloth below the piers, I don't mind spending a bit more just in case for the PT subfloor. (eventually I want to put down a Marty-style flloor, love the look of that Oak)

    OK, off to bed.

    THank you to all who chimed in. I REALLY appreciate it.
    -Ned

  9. #9
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    I had time and opportunity today to swing down to the lumber yard and this time I spoke with the owner. Figured out that it will be Cheaper and Stronger to use 2x8x12's for the floor, so phase 1 will commence in three weeks (I'll be out of town part of that time, and the PT shipment won't be in until I'm gone). On the plus side, my shop just got cheaper by a couple of hundred dollars (woohoo!) (actually I think it just stays closer to budget, knowing full well I'm estimating on the overall cost, and will undoubtably run over somewhere)
    -Ned

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