10" blades for CS

I resisted the urge to hijack the TS blade thread. After we sell the old house and pay off a bunch of debts I might someday have a leisure tool budget (I do have a plumbing tool budget, but plumbing is not a leisure activity). I enjoy using my EZ Smart system, but sometimes 7 1/4" is just shy of what I want to cut, so I am thinking about getting a 10" CS someday for use with the EZ Smart rails.

I know that with my RAS, I need to be very aware of using positive hook greater than 10 degrees or so for pull cuts, as blade climb may result with poor technique.

For a handheld circular saw, especially on a rail, are there any types of blades to avoid for safety reasons? It seems like [what, on a TS, would be called] a kickback event would simply bog the blade, right?

Is the TS blade discussion simply also relevant for handheld CSs?

Hi Mark! Good question. The same laws of physics apply, in that more teeth tends to equate to a cleaner cut, but also more resistance and heat. I'd guess that the same angles that are appropriate for a TS are also appropriate for a CS. Be sure the blade kerf is compatible with any splitter or riving knife that might come with your CS.

Mark Kosmowski said:

It seems like [what, on a TS, would be called] a kickback event would simply bog the blade, right?

Click to expand...

If you've never experienced kickback from a powerful handheld circular saw, I recommend you pass . Binding or misguided cuts will stall the blade on lower powered saws but, kickback is very real on circular saws (and jointers for that matter), just not as well published as the result is usually just a bruised set of hand/arm/shoulder muscles along with your pride.
As to blade choice, I would look into the geometry used on circular hand held beam saws. I would think this might port-over to what you are wanting to do.

i can attest to not wanting a larger circular saw, mark. you should do your croscutting with a normal circular saw or your RAS, your pride and fingers or body will be glad you did.