Duct question for DC

Sean Wright

Member
Messages
902
Location
WNY, Buffalo Area
As I continue my research on dust collectors and systems, it looks like I will be going with a standard 1 1/2 hp or 2 hp at the most system (no hookup for a 220 either) . Sorry Stu, the cyclone just isn't in the budget.... maybe some day :dunno:

What type of ducts does everyone use? PVC or metal?

I know about having to ground the ducts especially if using PVC. Has anyone ever run it to a problem caused by the static build up?

I have never run duct work before, how hard is it to run metal ducting?

Which cost more?


Thanks for you input! :thumb:
 
All my ducting is metal. The most difficult part of running meteal duct that I have run into is suspending it from ceiling. The second hardest thing was making strong, tight joints. I've used two methods so far: Metal/aluminum tape, Pipe clamps with an aluminum sleave.

I dont like either method as the tape is hard to remove if you have to re-locate the duct and the clamp/sleeve doesnt hold the duct strongly enough.

I prefer the sleeve method only because it is easier to relocate the duct if needed.
 
There is some discussion regarding static electricity in PVC ducting, so you may want to read up on it before making a decision. I'm using PVC w/o grounding and really don't worry about it. Two reasons, a) I really don't think I have enough "fine" dust to worry about, and b) in Houston it is rarely dry enough to be able to generate static electricity.
 
I was initially considering PVC, as it seems easier to work with than metal. Being that my shop is in my basement, static discharge & burning down my house is a concern. :eek:

For about half the year my house has the right conditions for static electricity. My son and my wife can attest to this after being zapped periodicaly by me :D


Edited: As I can't run ducting under my shop (concrete basement floor), I was going to run it overhead and across at least one of the walls.
 
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Most of mine is PVC, under concrete.

I have just a dab of metal ducting, not much.

PVC is much easier to install.

None of mine above concrete is grounded
 
Hey Sean,
All my ductwork is metal, suspended from the ceiling. Hardest part is the planning. Don't remember what machines you have, but its a good idea to think about making the dust ports bigger. Those 2 inch ports just don't do much. Looking back, I wish I had taken a jig saw or hack saw and opened a couple of them up to 4 inches. Try to keep the amount of plastic flex hose down to a minimum - lots of friction and reduced air flow. Try to 'cluster' your machine so one drop can serve a few machines.

If you only use one machine at a time, a portable might work for you. They make quick connect fittings for moving hoses easily.

Don't count on being able to find all the connectors and such you need at the Borg. Woodworker's supply www.woodworker.com has a pretty good supply and reasonable prices.
 
Hey Sean,
All my ductwork is metal, suspended from the ceiling. Hardest part is the planning. Don't remember what machines you have, but its a good idea to think about making the dust ports bigger. Those 2 inch ports just don't do much. Looking back, I wish I had taken a jig saw or hack saw and opened a couple of them up to 4 inches. Try to keep the amount of plastic flex hose down to a minimum - lots of friction and reduced air flow. Try to 'cluster' your machine so one drop can serve a few machines.

If you only use one machine at a time, a portable might work for you. They make quick connect fittings for moving hoses easily.

Don't count on being able to find all the connectors and such you need at the Borg. Woodworker's supply www.woodworker.com has a pretty good supply and reasonable prices.


Tools needing connection to a DC are:

Table Saw (base is mobile, as it is a small basement shop)
Router Table in TS extension
6in Joiner
13in Planer
4in Belt/6in Disc Sander
Compound Miter Saw
Small Bandsaw

I was also planning on building a down draft table once I get a DC.

I would also like to put in a floor sweep, if possible.
 
sean, there`s no cheap way to install d/c piping....hvac duct might work for a while if less than 6" but it`s not a good long term solution....i don`t care for pvc just `cause......no good reason.....just used to metal...for starters, on a budget get a pump and a short (10`) piece of good flex and one good blast gate.......play with it for a while moving it from machine to machine before you consider hard-piping your shop.....after you`re used to what you have and know its capabilities and shortcomings then start thinking about the logistics and associated costs involved with hard-piping......tod
 
I am using 6" stove pipe with fittings from penn state. The dc that is in my shop is the hf 2hp model and it does a good job. If I had the money I would consider the spiral pipe, but around here it cost over $3.00 a foot. Heavy gauge stove pipe(26 gauge) is is around $1.30 a foot. PVC(6") is around $2.00 a foot, but the fittings are hard to come by and costly.

PVC does cuase some shock, but it is not enough to couse problems in the houe. You do not have to worry about it burning down your house.
 
I orignally had all flex plastic pipe and connections from rockler. Problem was to many dips in runs so I replaced with 4" metal pipe from menards and used all the connectors from before now the only plastic is the drop to the machines.
Ken
 
Tools needing connection to a DC are:

Table Saw (base is mobile, as it is a small basement shop)
Router Table in TS extension
6in Joiner
13in Planer
4in Belt/6in Disc Sander
Compound Miter Saw
Small Bandsaw

I was also planning on building a down draft table once I get a DC.

I would also like to put in a floor sweep, if possible.

Hey Sean,
The big payoff is going to be hooking up the joiner, planer, and disc sander.

Its very difficult to control the dust around a miter saw, usually needs some sort of hood built and then its way from perfect. Same story, but not quite as bad for the bandsaw. Tablesaw probably doesn't make too much dust, but its easy to fit, though you will still get dust on the top unless you rig something up.

I have a loose piece of flex in the middle of my shop with quick connect fasteners. I move it between the disc/belt sander and the floor sweep.

You're starting on a long journey, usually any thread on dust collection gets into an argument sooner or later, lots of opinions. But doing anything is better than doing nothing.

Let us know how it comes out.:thumb:
 
I don't have a final solution in place for my shop, but much like Tod suggested, and like Jesse described, I've got two 4" flex hoses going from my machines to the DC. Until I have a real shop set up in something other than a crpeted garage, I'm not going to run permanent ductwork. The longest run is about 12', and it's got a quick disconnect at the end to let me switch it between the bandsaw and the jointer. I've got a Y on that line that also goes to the table saw, with its own blast gate. The second flex line coming off the DC is about 10' long and it's got a Big Gulp scoop on the end for use with my lathe. This line also has a quick disconnect, so I can move it if necessary to my bench to hook up into planer or my downdraft box for sanding small flatwork pieces. (I still use the Shop Vac attached to the sanders instead of the 4" DC line.)
 
I'm using 6" PVC. and haven't gotten a shock yet. I can feel some static in the hair on my arm, but when I touch the pipe, nothing. My understanding is that the dust concentration combined with an ignition point (static spark) isn't going to happen in a home shop. Just not enough concentration of dust to explode. Now a spark from a nail hitting your impeller and landing in the dust bin would be more of a worry, and is the reason I didn't pipe dust collection to my drill press. I've drilled metal almost as much so far as I have wood. I'll use the shop vac, or broom and dust pan there. Or just keep a trash can close and sweep the pieces into it as I go. Jim.
 
For those of you using PVC, how are you joining the pipes? Are you using the purple PVC glue or some other method?

Also for the PVC users, has anyone installed a grounding kit?
My understanding is that the wire runs inside of the piping, and connects to each tool, and the DC/ground on the other end. Is that an accurate understanding?

Thanks for all of the feedback! :thumb:
 
Sean, as stated earlier I do not worry about grounding. I connected my 6" ASTM 2720 by slipping the joints together (angles, 90* etc) adding a couple of 1/2" screws, and taping the joint with aluminum tape. It is a tight joint and can be taken apart if necessary.
 
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