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Thread: TS Wing Router Ver 2.0....?

  1. #1
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    TS Wing Router Ver 2.0....?

    Looks like I need to remake my Tablesaw Wing Router set up, I was using it the other day and I noticed that the top had warped. Not happy, so I have to rebuild it. A while back I put my router table insert into the wing of my SawStop, utilizing the SawStop's laminated wing, it is not that thick and it looks like it has sagged. This is a real problem for me, as I'm just about ready to do the doors for my humidor, and the sag makes doing that job just about impossible

    I think I will double up with some thick MDF and some angle iron too, just to make sure the next one does not sag.

    It's always something ain't it......

    I'll take this as an opportunity to build an even better router table
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  2. #2
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    Funny you should mention this Stu i have the same problem. I have purchased some nice thick aluminum angle iron to do the job and try keep the added weight down. You right its always something. My always something list is so long i dont have a clue when it will end.
    cheers

  3. #3
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    I see a wonderful opportunity for you to make the router station of your dreams . . . just trying to look on the bright side My first attempt, single layer MDF top also distorted. It took a few parts that didn't fit correctly before I realized what was going on. Good support distributed across the surface area seems to do the trick whether it be angle iron, hardwoods or ply on edge. With your metal working skills I would also lean toward a metal solution. Any subtle deviations across the span can be dealt with by shimming if required and it will stay put for good. If you are in a time crunch, a temporary top might be cobbled together to get you through the humidor. That way you won't be in a hurry while designing your 'ultimate' router table .
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  4. #4
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    I have a double layered MDF table for the left wing of my Unisaw with a free used Hitachi 3.25 plunge $10 for plastic parts no problems with sag. I also have a Rockler top that I got for $20 with a free promo Hitachi 2.25 standard. I also have a 29" deep cast iron top with miter slot that will be a router table some day. Gee I like free routers.
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    Funny you should mention this Stu i have the same problem. I have purchased some nice thick aluminum angle iron to do the job and try keep the added weight down. You right its always something. My always something list is so long i dont have a clue when it will end.
    I hope it is really thick Rob, as aluminium can be quite flexible, just saying

    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I see a wonderful opportunity for you to make the router station of your dreams . . . just trying to look on the bright side My first attempt, single layer MDF top also distorted. It took a few parts that didn't fit correctly before I realized what was going on. Good support distributed across the surface area seems to do the trick whether it be angle iron, hardwoods or ply on edge. With your metal working skills I would also lean toward a metal solution. Any subtle deviations across the span can be dealt with by shimming if required and it will stay put for good. If you are in a time crunch, a temporary top might be cobbled together to get you through the humidor. That way you won't be in a hurry while designing your 'ultimate' router table .


    I did beef up the bottom of this piece rather significantly, but it still went sideways. I think that the wing from the SawStop was just not that great to start with, I should not have used it Also the plastic laminate on the wing seems to have popped in a couple of spots too.


    Just to the left of the "Woodcraft" you can see the bump that I'm working against.


    Yeah, that is not going to work.


    You can see that this wing has become kind of a junk collection spot.


    As you can see the space is not that well used.

    Here is the clean slate that I'm working with.....



    What I'm thinking of doing is adding two large lengths of angle iron that will go front to back, as the rails on the saw go side to side, that will give me a solid angle iron frame around all four sides. Then I'll weld some nuts on the bottom of the frame with some bolts that I can adjust the top in say 8 or ten spots, kind of like the router plate has those leveling screws in it. I figure that the doubled up MDF top (18mm x 2 = 36mm or 1-13/32" which is just a tick over 1-3/8") should be stout enough, but I'm going to add a couple of pieces of angle iron to that too.

    I hope to have a good dust collection area and a cabinet too, I need to use the space better.

    The other thing is the laminate I'll cover the MDF top with will most likely be a cream color this will have the added bonus of not being black, should brighten up the space just a little bit!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  6. #6
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    Like this......



    I'll weld some ends onto the angle iron, and bolt it in place, I think that is better than welding it in place.

    I'll shim the table top into the steel frame, should be able to keep it all nice and flat and straight.
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  7. #7
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    Stu I misunderstood I thought your router was on the left side of the table-saw. Do you stand to the right of the saw when routing or in front of it? The reason I ask is I've always felt that a router table system should be run like you would a shaper while standing along side of it for better control. I also was able to make an extension that clamps on (the white laminate covered panel) for when I was routing a large door. The switch has 2 or 3 plugs on the back side I use one for the router & one for a shop vac. The fence is from a wood magazine back a few years ago.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails router table G.jpg   A1 myshop 055.jpg   Unisaw tilt control.jpg   1940 Delta Unisaw switch.jpg  
    Last edited by Bart Leetch; 10-01-2013 at 08:48 PM.
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  8. #8
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    Bart I stand at the end of the table when I use the router table, the fence to the TS would be on my left hand and the back side of the TS would be on my right hand, it seems to work OK for me.
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
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    Thatt should be a real stout wing when you finish..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart Ablett View Post
    Bart I stand at the end of the table when I use the router table, the fence to the TS would be on my left hand and the back side of the TS would be on my right hand, it seems to work OK for me.

    So your at the right end of the TS facing it pushing through from right to left with the finished material coming out of the RT on the in-feed side of the TS?
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

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