Jointer generator woes continue

Rob Keeble

Member
Messages
12,633
Location
GTA Ontario Canada
Well on and off or should i say in between capacitor deliveries I have neen pushing ahead with my jointer woes.

just as a recap this is a 3hp motor 8inch grizz jointer.
Trying to get it to run on 6250 watt starting and 5500 running champion genrator.

Have as of yesterday now blown 3 of the start caps. So no more.

What i did before this one was to haul motor out, put a 10 guage flex cable 5 ft long directly from motor wire windings through to generator 220v socket.

I wanted to be sure there was zero voltdrop and shortest physical lead with excellent connections. Minimal switches in place, used generator output switch as load control/start switch.

Also in the process i checked on the operation of the centrifugal switch and its contact and continuity. even slightly adjusted it so it had less swing needed before it cut out/in which every way u want to say this. All good.

Motor fires up and runs but dont get to the point where it drops out the start cap.

Unfortunately i dont have 220v in this house so no ability to bench test the motor.
Did let generator run and warm up for about 5 min. and even tested each output individually to check its producing voltage/current on each leg.

So now my next step is going to take motor to a repair shop and have them test it on a bench. Finding a shop is going to be a challenge. I will also look to have a new start cap fitted but will insist on way higher voltage than the chinese version grizz supplies. They use 250v for a system operating on 220v . Thats way to close for comfort in my view.

I will also buy a cheap stove element from the appliance parts store and hook it up to the generator to see if it can supply 5500 watts and maintain the voltage at 220v. That will at least eliminate the generator load bearing capability. I am betting it falls over at 4000 or less watts and the voltage drops to my guess is going to be less than 200v. We shall see. Its a easy and cheap enough test to do to get peace of mind.

But now i am thinking about a smaller hp new motor that will work on 110v.

Sure i wont have power but with slow enough feed i should still be able to joint wood and get past this. Also in my neck of the woods, the labor costs etc for a motor repair quickly will get to the hundreds so i aint exactly willing to spend that on repairing motor if its found that the centrifugal switch is faulty. Also a cap here is not what grizz charge even inc. shipping.

Any other ideas or thoughts from braintrust??

Checked motor label and it should only need 2200 watts running. Now i know startup current can go very very high in order of spikes greater than 20 amps if thats the case this motor is a poor design which is quiet possible given its origins. But a startup power of 6250 should give allowance for a current of 28.4 give or take amps. I would have thought i should be easily out of the woods here.


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Hmmmm. Watching with interest. Bought a generator to run my Griz table saw at 220v. Keep us posted, Rob. I haven't had a chance to try mine yet. A;so have a Jet 1642 lathe 220v model. There I will need to condition the power for the electronics. Another alligator to fight for another day.
 
Rob just an FYI from my motors days. the cent. Switch is designed to kick in a 2/3 of the full speed of the motor so if the inertial load is suck that the motor can reach 2300 RPM's in a reasonable time then that's why the caps are going. See is any of the motor repair shops have a hand tack they can loan you for a few hours.
 
Well the stove outlet has 220v but i would not like to mess with the electrics in this place. They scary bad and the person who owned it prior to passing was supposed to be an electrician. :what:

Think i found a place to get a higher rated start cap also worked out i have a element for some decent wattage in a dumb waiter we brought with us from Sa but have never used. Gonna hook it up to the generator and see if this thing is capable of providing the power and holding the voltage.

Still looking for a place that can run a load test on a bench to check the motor out.

Another thing i have found out a out is a solid state device that is called ISOVOLT and take the place of the centrifugal switch.

At the moment my money is on me finding that the generator just cannot produce the power and hold the voltage while doing it.

When ever did the marketing hype / stickers tell the truth a out something.

220v @ > 20 amps is a lot of juice and to regulate it and have it even resemble sinusoidal wave, well sorry but i am a skeptic, I have had some heavy current experience its been a while but anything high current pushes the component costs required to handle a power in that league.
Best way to resolve it is going to be testing.
Time will tell and i will report what i find.

Good idea on the handheld tacho Don, can get one for $30 here at our version of HF.



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