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Thread: Quick question about finishing a table top

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Quick question about finishing a table top

    The Memsahib put a gun to my head this morning, so I am in the middle of refinishing our tiger oak dining table and buffet - the tops only. I used a finish restorer on it a few years ago, and it did a great job of matching the existing finish, and I have more than half of it left. I have taken the scratches and stains down with 220 grit sandpaper on my ROS, and it looks good, nice and smooth. I am planning to wipe on the stain restorer once I am quite sure the table top is dry after wiping off the dust. I didn't see any noticeable effect on the grain. Oce this dries, I am planning to use the Minwax Tung Oil finish I bought last year for another project, but didn't use on advice I got here.

    I remember being told that the 'Tung Oil' product I had was Tung Oil in the sense that a hotdog is pork. (Not those words exacttly, but....) Anyway, will it likely put a nice shiny finish on our table without undue labour on our part, or should we do something else?
    Cheers,
    Roger


    The other member of Mensa, but not the NRA

    Everyone is a self-made person.

    "The thing about quotes on the internet is that you cannot confirm their veracity" -Abraham Lincoln

  2. #2
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    Rodger last time I checked the Minwax Tung oil finish was nothing more then a wipe on oil based Poly and contained no Tung Oil. That said it will provide a nice finish but it is not necessarily as hard a finish as some of the others.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
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    Our dining room table - which we use for every meal - was finished with Behlen's "Rock Hard Tabletop Finish" twelve years ago, and it still looks great. I put maybe half a dozen coats on, a day or two apart, with sanding or steel wooling between coats. A lot more work than what you're suggesting, but worth it.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
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    I'm pretty sure Minwax Tung Oil finish does not contain polyurethane, but as Don said, it's a wipe-on oil/varnish. (The oil part is likely linseed oil.) It'll put a nice shiny finish after you wipe on 3 to 12 coats. It'll look nice but won't be as durable as a true poly finish like the Behlen's product Jim mentioned. Here's some useful info:

    http://www.rockler.com/how-to/what-i...e-top-varnish/
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan View Post
    I'm pretty sure Minwax Tung Oil finish does not contain polyurethane, but as Don said, it's a wipe-on oil/varnish. (The oil part is likely linseed oil.) It'll put a nice shiny finish after you wipe on 3 to 12 coats. It'll look nice but won't be as durable as a true poly finish like the Behlen's product Jim mentioned. Here's some useful info:

    http://www.rockler.com/how-to/what-i...e-top-varnish/
    Sweet - I love that answer.

    I would encourage anyone to click the link and READ the description.

    Makes all the sense in the world.

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