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Thread: FWW - Lamont Table

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)

    FWW - Lamont Table

    Ok, This is the 1st real piece of furniture that I have built. It will be gift for my daughter's wedding on May 12th.

    Here is what Fine woodworking thinks it should look like.

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    I had to use Sketch up to figure out some of the dimensions and I really just wanted to learn Sketch up. The FWW article for this piece of furniture really makes you think through the whole piece. I have read it at least 10 times.

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    I purchased the wood for this from Peach State Lumber Products . One of the thing I wanted todo was do book match the top and shelf pieces. The top is 17" x 21". So I picked out an 8/4 rough piece of cherry. I also picked 2 pieces of 3/4" for the sides and another piece of 8/4 for the legs. I got a piece of soft maple for the drawer sides.

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    I started by really looking at the big 8/4 piece to find where I could get the best pieces for the top and shelf. I cut the big piece in half and then had to joint an 11" wide 8/4 x 4' piece. I DO NOT have a 12" jointer. I used a piece of 3/4 MDF, shims and hot glue. Then used by 12 lunch box planer to get a flat surface on the big board. I did OK !!!

    Next I cut the two piece that would be the top and bottom and finished planing them.

    Then I got to really use my Laguna HD16 BS. It made the cut with no problem.

    So I now have the bottom shelf ready to glue and I am going down to get the top ready. My goal today is get the top glued up.

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    I also got to use my old jointer which I finally got completed a few months ago. It is NOT great but it did allow me to get a good straight edge to run thru the saw for a dimension cut.
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    Comments are welcome.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)
    Sunday Afternoon. I spent a few hours working on parts.

    Here is what I ended up with.

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    When I did the re-saw on the 8/4 board so I would have book matched top, I got some curl in the board. I have read several times on forums that wood need s to "recover" from being re-sawn.

    Is the stacking with concrete blocks any kind of a good idea ????

    I found out how much sawdust resawing can make.

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    This is not good since I do not have any dust collection.

    All I have is my homemade dust filter.

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    Which does a great job, but still have LOTS of very fine dust in the air.

    So I hope someone is reading this that can give me some guidance on the curl in my re-sawn boards. The top is going to be 21" wide x 17" deep. So the only way I will have to flatten after glue up will be a hand plane. Which BTW I have never done either.

    Do I have any hope ? Worse case I can crate a new top from 3/4" s2s cherry boards.

    But I am having fun !!!

  3. #3
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Looking good

    Yes on the curling when resawing stock. It happens a lot.

    Cut, weight it down as soon as you can

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)
    Steve, I only waited about 2 hours, but I understand what you mean.

    Being a craftsman is all about experience and learning from your mistakes. Thanks for the advise.

    I will let you know how it works. I am going to leave them under the weight until next Saturday.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    bartee, how will the top be affixed to the table? quite often a stubborn board can be forced into submission by attaching it to the apron using wooden buttons....don`t forget the router bridge trick if you get tearout using handplanes on the figured boards .......tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Cumming, GA
    Bartee - Not much I can add on the curl factor. Just wanted you to know that if you ever need access to a 14" jointer - I've got one and am located just north of you in Cumming. I'm always open nights and weekends!

    The project looks great BTW!

    - Norb

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)
    Norb, WOW what an offer.

    I sent you an eMail.

    Tod, Great idea. I have seen those jigs, but did not think about it for this purpose.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)

    This weekends tasks: Need comments on mortise and tenon design

    This weekend I hope to cut the legs and sides. This will include the mortise and tenons.

    I still like to draw by hand, so I did this drawing to figure out the exact size of the cuts.

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    The FWW article is very sparse on dimensions.

    Do these mortise and tenons look the right size. The scale on the drawing paper is 1 to 1.

    Here is a link to the article. You may have to be a FWW web subcriber to see this.

    Here is a link to the same article from Google Books.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Alpharetta GA ( Metro Atlanta)

    I had a good weekend.

    I am having fun.

    I got the legs cut. I had them roughed out but had to get to the final 1 3/8" x 1 3/8". I learned the best way to do this is using my lunch box planer.

    Next I went for the mortises. My mortiser did great. I did find I needed more light, so I added that little light in the top right corner.

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    I was surprised at how much clean out there is todo.

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    My 1/4" Two Cherries chisel did great. I bought these 3 years ago, knowing that I would need them once I started building real furniture and not just shop stuff.

    I did make my plan getting the sides cut out and planed down to 3/4". I cut the shoulders of the mortises on the TS and cut finished the cuts on my HD16 band saw. The BS is great for this. The 3/4" resaw king carbide blade is great. This is the way to do tenons. I found that I really have a hard time fine adjusting the BS fence. I am thinking I would really like to have the Laguna Drift Master BS Fence (link). BUT is is very expensive. $295 I actually think I can build a suitable fence adjuster with some threaded rod. I will have that for another thread.

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    I had to test fit just so I could see progress. I have some adjusting to do on the mortise and tenons, but that is nice hand work, which I am enjoying more and more. It really sorta looks like a table here.

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    I also spent some time on the top. Remember it was re-sawed from an 8/4 piece of cherry. So I have a book matched top from the 2 pieces. I am having serious challenges with it staying flat. But I am close. I went ahead and did the glue up. Sorry for the poor image, this glue up table is in a darker part of the shop.

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    I am going down in a few minutes to scape the glue line with a chisel while it is still a little pliable.

    Next will be the front pieces above and below the drawer. Then I got to fit all the mortise and tenons. The will come the inside support pieces which will all be custom fitted.

    I will have to get some time during the week day nights inorder to get this done by May 5th.

    Well more later. Thanks for looking. Any comments are always appreciated.
    Last edited by Bartee Lamar; 04-16-2007 at 01:19 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Punta Gorda, Florida
    Lookin good Bartee!

    There is one thing though. You mentioned that you were supprised at the amount of clean out that you had to do with your mortises. After looking at your photos I think that there is something wrong. It might be that your bit and chisel setup is not right. I would be inclined to think that your bit is not set deep enough in relation to your chisel. The photo below is not very good quality but I think that it is good enough to see how clean my mortises are. This is a three inch deep mortise with one pass and is straight out of the machine with just a small scape and tapping out the cuttings. If you get it working correctly you should have very little clean up, if at all.

    This method of setting the correct bit/chisel relationship works for me. Look under Chisel and Bit Spacing.

    If I am off base accept my apologies.

    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 04-16-2007 at 05:27 AM.

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