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Thread: Veneer question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Veneer question

    I have a project a client has asked me to do for them. They have an existing stairway with painted skirts and risers. They would like them to be in oak to match the treads.
    Removal of the stairs would be quite expensive and a mess. My thought was to strip the paint from them down to the bare wood so I would have a clean surface to adhere to and then veneer them in oak. The skirt against the wall may be more effective to replace with a solid piece as I can get it out with minimal fuss but that still leaves the risers and the outside skirt which is cut to the treads.

    I cannot clamp nor can I use a vacuum bag here for obvious reasons so.... does any one know what kind of adhesive I could use? I am hesitant about using the hot glue backed that is ironed on in this application as the surfaces are quite large. Regular adhesives require clamping so...
    I am considering going old school and using the old stand by real hide glue. I know it stinks but it doesn't require clamping and actually draws in the stock being glued.
    Having never worked with this Im not sure the pitfalls. Also, is there a better "modern" solution that would allow me to have enough open time to fuss with the pieces getting them aligned (the outside skirt is going to have to be almost slid into position behind the returns on the treads so that eliminates contact adhesives as well.)
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
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    thats a real tough job rich, my best ADVICE would be to contact Todd Evans and frank fusco can get you his info.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Austin, Texas
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    Paper backed veneer is probably the best for this... it can be applied with contact cement - it is designed for use by construction crews, not fine furniture makers. The veneer itself is very thin, and the paper shows at the edge, but neither are issues for this use. It typically comes in 2x8 or 4x8 foot sheets so your crew can veneer doors and walls.

    Premixed hide glue doesn't have the high initial tack required for "hammer" veneering, so you have to go to real hide glue - the warm kind that you have to mix. I would be worried about trying to use that on stripped paint, which may not have enough open wood pores for the hide glue to stick well.

    Check Joe at Veneer Supplies - especially his page on glues. http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm - he includes a Heat Lock veneer that you brush on, then iron the veneer in place (the first one in the list), but more exciting is the FSV glue near the end of the list that allows you to veneer a painted surface. I have always found Joe's recommendations to be good.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    5,998
    While you might not think ironing the veneer on is workable, it sounds like your best bet, especially if you're ruling out contact cement. I've done very large, irregular shapes in a commercial shop by rolling yellow glue on the substrate and back of the veneer. Let it dry to translucent, roll on another light coat, let it get tacky, use tape to hold the veneer in position, then start ironing.

    Using contact cement, I would tape sticks in place across the substrate areas after rolling on the adhesive. Work your way along the area, pulling out a stick at a time to press the veneer in place.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    So. Florida
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    268
    Maybe you could just use " Oak plywood, and if the edges can't be hidden, use a small trim moulding. You could just use glue and a few pin nails.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Thanks for the info guys!
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

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