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Thread: Misson Lamp - Prototype

  1. #1

    Misson Lamp - Prototype

    Thanks, everyone, for your advice in my other thread:

    I built a prototype from dimensional lumber, mdf, and plywood of the various correct thicknesses. I had to make a few design tweaks due to limitations of my tooling... I built a "clamp-down" style taper jig, which required a 3/4" base. 3" of material + 3/4" of jig = 3 3/4" or about 1/4" more than my saw can cut. So it's 2.5" tapering to 1.5" instead of 3" tapering to 2". Need a bandsaw!

    That base change obviously impacted the sizing of the entire rest of the design. I chose to keep the reveals constant. That means they're proportionately larger. I think it looks fine, except for one.


    The only thing I really don't like is the final reveal at the base. It's 1/2". I'm changing that to 1/4". The base just seems too visually heavy. Even after the reveal change, I think it will still be visually weighty, but I'm hoping the shade will balance that out. Sorry folks, not doing a "real" Arts & Crafts style shade.... just going to the store and buying a simple white round drum.

    Building a prototype worked really well for me as I was able to work through the individual setups for the different cuts, write that info down, and, most importantly, see what did and did not work, safely! I still need to figure out exactly how I'll attach the socket (it's just sitting there in the photos). I didn't realize 95% of sockets available are female. I had intended to sink a nut into the top and screw the socket in there. I may end up doing exactly that, but putting a short (1/2" or 3/4" long) IPS threaded rod in instead... We'll see!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC06031sm.JPG   DSC06032sm.JPG   DSC06033sm.JPG  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
    Looking good. I too have built prototypes out of old pallets, cast-offs or whatever. This can really help as I go through the steps in showing me things I might do differently or simply build confidence in things I might do the same

    Pallet wood and an old door skin versus pecan and cherry.

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    Pallet wood and resawn 2x4's versus stained ash.

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    I think your modified proportions are fine and look forward to tagging along.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Delton, Michigan
    good idea on making a proto type first..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    I'm a big believer in building prototypes. Lamp looks fantastic. About the shade. You would,be surprised at the good deals online for "arts & crafts lampshades. Google it.

    In arte voluptas - in der Kunst liegt Vergnügen - in art lies enjoyment

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Humid Gulf Coast
    Your lamp looks good.

    So 95% of sockets available are female huh, and they say it's a Mans world--lol
    It's kind of fun to do the impossible

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    East Freeetown, Massachusetts
    I think more angle on the base reveal would help keep it strong and also thin it out.

    I am assuming the real thing is going to be QSWO?

    Looks Awesome

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    S E Washington State
    I think it is a great looking lamp. I personally don't find anything wrong with the base. I would think as a finish product, I'm assuming you will round over the edges some, that it will like right with the rest of the lamp. But then it looks good to my eye and we are not all the same.
    "We the People ......"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
    I really like your lamp. A shade is going to add visual weight to the top. Purchase your shade and try it on the mock-up before you alter the base.

    Fastening socket options:
    1 Run threaded tube the entire length of the lamp with enough threads projecting on the top to hold the socket. Anchor the tube at the bottom with a recessed nut.
    2 Drill down from the top making a hole that will just (friction) hold a couple inches of the threaded tube and epoxy the two-inch threaded piece in place. If the wire is to come out of the side of the base, just drape it over to the hole you have drilled in from the side of the base. Insert a short piece of threaded tube horizontally. Recess for and thread on a satin finished black dohingie that they use for looks and to keep the tube from wearing through the insulation.
    3 If the wire is to come out of the side of the base (which is usually the case) use threaded tube down to a right angle (or two 45 degree) elbow. Use another piece of tubing out to the base periphery and thread on a black plastic piece like they did way back when.

    Switch options:
    1 A pull chain works well in this kind of lamp. The chain hangs down so it can be reached easily and it is down below the warm socket. The chain could have a glass ball, or jewel or whatever for easy grasping and as a design factor for that era.
    2 If you really want a "turn" handle type of switch, I would opt for one with a "paddle" type of end for easy turning.

    I think a white cylindrical shade would be fine. I think an Arts and Crafts shade would be, "wowieee."

    As my wife's brother would say, "That's one darn fools opinion." I don't think darn was the word he used however.

    I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

    Last edited by Jim C Bradley; 03-14-2014 at 12:11 AM.
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.

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