Which Glue or Superglue?

Al Launier

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I'm about to start making a small music box, or a jewelry box, or both if i can get the LOML to make up her mind. In any event, I'm planning on making the walls 1/4""-3/8" thick depending on my inclination at the time of cut.:rolleyes: With walls that thin, and despite having a mini dovetail/box template on the P-C 4216 jig, I'm thinking it might be better to miter & glue the joints as the dovetail/box end grain pieces might not look so hot. I was also thinking that a mitered half-lap joint would also be a strong joint, but that still exposes the end grain of one of the pieces.
So, moving forward with the gluing approach, I have the Titebond II & Elmers Carpenter's Wood Glue on hand, as well as some superglue. The wood glues tend to leave a visual semi-thick glue line. The superglue basically leaves no glue line, but leaves no time for adjustment if needed, and it does hold well (test piece broke apart, but not at glued area). I wonder how many of you use superglue for joints? I assume any spillage on adjacent areas would affect any finish. What other downsides are there to consider? :huh:
 
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Another approach to those you mentioned is a keyed miter. Miter the corners, use wood glue to adhere them together, then cut across the corner and add a triangular key pieces. The key could extend inside the box to hold a tray. I've made boxes with 1/2" thick sides on which I ran a spline from top to bottom in each of the miter joints.
 
Another approach to those you mentioned is a keyed miter. Miter the corners, use wood glue to adhere them together, then cut across the corner and add a triangular key pieces. The key could extend inside the box to hold a tray. I've made boxes with 1/2" thick sides on which I ran a spline from top to bottom in each of the miter joints.

Bill this sounds interesting & it would really strengthen the corners. However, I was hoping to not have "exposed" joints, prefer a blind joint for this project. I'm going to hold onto your suggestion for future use. I like it & it gives me a a new fixture project to do.

Yet, with the thin walls, you did give me the thought of cutting a small 45° triangular shape piece of wood either in small block form or equal to the height of the wall & glue it to the inside corner(s) of the box to reinforce. With the thin walls, the block type could be used to support a tray or the floor of the box while reinforcing the wall corner. Either type would be covered with Velvet.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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Super glue is a brittle glue. Normal wood movement would probably cause the joint to fail. I'd use Titebond II and rub the joint tight.
 
Here's an image of a splined miter joint, Al:
SplineDetail.jpg

A keyed miter joint is like this:
keyed-miter.jpg
You can stop the cut before it extends inside the box, or you can extend it far enough to provide a ledge for a tray to sit on.
 
Here's an image of a splined miter joint, Al:
View attachment 80434

A keyed miter joint is like this:
View attachment 80435
You can stop the cut before it extends inside the box, or you can extend it far enough to provide a ledge for a tray to sit on.

Now that's what I'm talking about! :thumb: Thanks Bill, you have given me the solution. I really like the full length splined miter joint! :thumb: The keyed miter joint is nice also, and I will be using it, but not on this specific application.
 
TB or TBII and keyed miters.

BEmapleShedua 7.jpg5th ann boxes 6.jpg

Or just miters.

LaceBEmaple (1).jpg

The smaller boxes don't get much stress. Larger boxes I would key the miters. You could also spline them so that the reinforcement doesn't show. Just some ideas.
 
Kinda pricey for me. I'm not in that much of a hurry! Also sounds like a CA glue with retarder. Wonder if it cures as brittle as regular CA.
 
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