Al Launier
Member
- Messages
- 1,683
- Location
- Bedford, NH
I'm about to start making a small music box, or a jewelry box, or both if i can get the LOML to make up her mind. In any event, I'm planning on making the walls 1/4""-3/8" thick depending on my inclination at the time of cut. With walls that thin, and despite having a mini dovetail/box template on the P-C 4216 jig, I'm thinking it might be better to miter & glue the joints as the dovetail/box end grain pieces might not look so hot. I was also thinking that a mitered half-lap joint would also be a strong joint, but that still exposes the end grain of one of the pieces.
So, moving forward with the gluing approach, I have the Titebond II & Elmers Carpenter's Wood Glue on hand, as well as some superglue. The wood glues tend to leave a visual semi-thick glue line. The superglue basically leaves no glue line, but leaves no time for adjustment if needed, and it does hold well (test piece broke apart, but not at glued area). I wonder how many of you use superglue for joints? I assume any spillage on adjacent areas would affect any finish. What other downsides are there to consider?
So, moving forward with the gluing approach, I have the Titebond II & Elmers Carpenter's Wood Glue on hand, as well as some superglue. The wood glues tend to leave a visual semi-thick glue line. The superglue basically leaves no glue line, but leaves no time for adjustment if needed, and it does hold well (test piece broke apart, but not at glued area). I wonder how many of you use superglue for joints? I assume any spillage on adjacent areas would affect any finish. What other downsides are there to consider?
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