Feb 01 Build Report:
First we worked a bit more finessing the shape of the inner stems. This is done with a block plane or spokeshave. You want to end up with an edge that is only about 1/8” wide. We just lay a piece of cedar along the forms and use that to eyeball the shape. Near the strongback, this is pretty easy as it is a basic V shape. But up top, near the keel area, it is a much wider V, so it takes a bit of care.
Another view:
Then it is time to start fastening cedar strips.
But wait! Getting ready for that first strip takes time.
We start with clamping all these notched jig pieces along the bottom edge (gunwale edge) of the forms. These are to support the first strip as it’s position is finalized.
(you need every C-clamp you own and then some for this…
Then we lay the first strip there, bead side down, and make adjustments.
Along the edge, as shown here, is pretty easy. Then we had to fuss a bit to make sure it fit well at the bow and stern. We start with aligning it to the edge of the form, but for the ends you just need to bend over and eyeball the curve and see. The eye will show you if there is an unsightly dip or wobble that needs addressing. Then we staple the first piece into position. These staple holes are later covered by the gunwales, so they are not unsightly.
On the other side we check every spot for level before stapling these also.
I also forgot to mention, we check the spacing between each form, to make sure we are maintaining the 12” spacing. The forms can tend to flop around at first.
Each form is also checked for plumb, and we tack a strip along the keel to hold them in position. This is a temporary piece.
First glue on the entire craft is when we glue the first pieces to the stems at the end.
My buddy elected to go with the “staple—less” method. NO STAPLE HOLES. This is a bit more work along the way, but the end result is a hull with no tiny holes.
First we clamped all those L-shaped jig pieces to each form so that they ready for use. We also cut a bunch of wedges from scrap bits of cedar. We need wedges for the top, and wedges for the face. Finally we practised a dry fit with one piece of cedar so that the whole gang knew what we were doing. Then it was time to go live and we laid a bead of glue down the cove of the strip, fitted the jig pieces into position and clamped them tight. And finally forced wedges in. Note that the jig pieces are not clamped tight to the strips; you leave a small gap so that the wedges can be forced in. Those will lock the beads into the coves.
And then we moved over to the other side where we got fancy and glued two strips at once and then clamped it. You do this by first laying a bead of glue into the strip that is on the form, and then also into another strip, and then fit two strips into place.
Clamping near the stems is tricky, but manageable.
And then we went back to the first side and glued in two more strips.
This is the glue we are using. We went with this new titebond as it is supposed to set very quickly. We’re not that worried about water resistance, given that the whole canoe, inside and out, will be encased in fiberglass and epoxy resin.
At the end of the session we have to hoist it up onto braces, since the shop is a multi-use facility and we can’t just leave the canoe out.