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Thread: Need table saw blade advice!!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Northwest Georgia U.S
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    Need table saw blade advice!!!

    Ok well I have a home made table saw and I'm using a craftsman 10in 13or maybe 15 amp motor and the blade I have now is way to hard to push threw the wood now it is a little dull but I think it's because I bought the incorrect type for what I need because it's hard to cut threw even regular pine. I think it's a finishing blade type not high finish but the tooth count is up there. My question is what type style brand whatever should I get I don't need a ridiculous clean chip free finish. Plus it's just to much work on my little table saw.
    I found this one on Amazon CMT 215.050.10 Industrial Combination Blade, 10-Inch x 50 Teeth 4ATB+1TCG Grind with 5/8-Inch Bore, PTFE Coating by CMT http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4JPAM/..._geK.sb0PNTVS2
    And I THINK that's what in looking for something in between and also still be able to cut threw wood fairly easily

    And I understand the science behind the tooth count and what not and less teeth =more room for chips whilst in the cut. But I just need something that easily cuts threw the wood and a name brand that's not retardely hard to find.


    ~Ninja~

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Ninh,
    For your saw, I'd recommend a thin kerf 40 tooth combination blade. The thin kerf really does help a lower powered saw to work well, and the fewer teeth cuts down on its workload, too. Something like this would be good, although it's a bit pricey.

    If you can afford two blades, the one above, and a 24 or 30 tooth thin kerf rip blade would be a good combination.

    The higher tooth count blades are really finishing blades, intended for cleaner cuts when crosscutting plywood, etc.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    If you're really unconcerned about it and " don't need a ridiculous clean chip free finish" then I'd suggest you just use a thin kerf 24T rip blade.
    Dave

  4. #4
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    Need table saw blade advice!!!

    But how BAD of a finish are we talking here with a 24 th blade ? Is it that bad?


    ~Ninja~

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninh Shepherd View Post
    But how BAD of a finish are we talking here with a 24 th blade ? Is it that bad?


    ~Ninja~
    Not bad at all.

    As Jim mentioned, ideally you would have two blades: One for cutting across the gran (crosscuts) and one for cutting in the same direction as the grain (ripping). I use a 24 tooth thin kerf blade for ripping and a 40 tooth thin kerf blade for crosscuts. Both blades produce very smooth cuts when used in the right direction, and the 24 tooth even does a presentable job on crosscuts. (The 40 tooth blade can do rip cuts, but it's harder to feed the wood through the blade, and it runs the risk of burning the wood.)

    Also as Jim suggested, go with a thin kerf blade. Your saw will thank you for it.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  6. #6
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    The CMT blade you linked to is 1/8" full kerf, which will be harder for your saw to spin than an equivalent 3/32" thin kerf. A good 24T rip blade will be the easiest on your saw and it should give glue ready edges, though they'll be more borderline than those from a decent 40T or 50T TK blade. A 24T ripper and a good 60T crosscut blade would be close to ideal. In that same price range as the CMT, I like the Infinity blades a lot. The Freud Diablo line and Irwin Marples offer a great bang for the buck....HD or Lowes should have those.
    Got Wood?

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Ninh i have a Craftsman table saw and it dont have a huge motor so to get the best power i use thin kerf blades. To get a really good cut and incedible bang for my buck i use the Freud Diablo 50 tooth combination blade most of the time. At the US home depot they only $38. They very good value for money. I dont bother sharpening them even though they claim that can be. When i get to be a way better woodworker i will graduate to the higher priced blades. These blades are construction grade intended so maybe the carbide aint what the $80 or so ones are.

    Then for rip cuts i purchased the equivalent 24 inch blade and its excellent for ripping. For the price of one of what most buy i can have both of these.

    Again what we need to take into account here is where we are on the learning level. I am a weekend warrior, were i retired and had more time to devote to woodworking then i would be looking to buy higher end blades take more time doing my projects and attain better results. Someday i hope this happens. But at that time i will also upgrade my table saw. Right now these blades do amazing things.

    The other issue is what you cutting. Some woods kill blades. Laminate kills blades sharpness. But when you cutting ply, if you an idiot like i was and forget to change your insert on the table saw and then cut ply expect to have tearout no matter the blade.

    That brings me to a point that i wanted to mention to you and your table saw design. I dont recall seeing any splitter behind your blade on your saw. I realize you have upgraded the surface from a cast iron top etc but consider then adding some basic safety feature like a splitter.

    Here is the one that many of us use on our table saws because it works. This is the micro jig splitter. What i have done is installed the inserts for the splitter on the zero clearance insert that i replace depending on the blade i am using.

    You have seen how safety orientated us old geysers can be but believe me we have many posts here were you can witness mistakes on the saw that resulted in injury even with guys who know better. The splitter keeps wood from closing on itself after it has gone through the cut. It also helps to keep the wood against the fence if you are cutting something like sheet goods and if you do this (ROB!!!! talking to myself here too ) you are more likely to have a parallel cut piece of wood after.

    Now if i recall correctly you do not have provision in your table for an insert. Do you have plans to change that or do you never have the intention of using a dado blade or blades of varying thickness? Normally we have many to cater for varying thickness of blade setup. What you can also do is given you have access to precision is to make your own splitter like you can see in the picture below.



    What the insert is going to do is support the wood under the edge thats getting cut and prevent tearout. The splitter will stop a board from binding on the blade and possibly getting thrown back in your face or worse.
    cheers

  8. #8
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    Northwest Georgia U.S
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    Need table saw blade advice!!!

    Well that settles it on the blade guys! I am going to the Home Depot today and getting two new blades Freud 24 tooth ct and a 40 or maybe a 50 combo blade
    And answer I would like to use one blade for both cross cutting and ripping but I mainly rip on the will the ripping do """O.K""" at cross cuts ? TS and I would love to have the splitters rob because a home made TS is way more likely to have misalignment with the fence to the blade causing kick back and I'll post pics of my table saw inserts haha it's comical but fast and works lol
    And I will probly purchase a dado blade as well
    Any recommendation on that guys I mainly want a dado for just cutting box joints I do all of my dados and rabbits on my router table but box joints if rather do on the TS
    and type of wood mainly pine I try to stay away from oak and the hard stuff because it puts too much strain on my TS and I don't need to go have to buy another lol but I would love too haha don't tell the misses lol


    ~Ninja~

  9. #9
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    Yeah, a rip blade will do decent crosscuts, especially in soft woods like pine.

    For box joints, you'll get a lot of hearty recommendations for this set:

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ASGV1E/...l_9k0ujnk183_b
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninh Shepherd View Post
    ...And I will probly purchase a dado blade as well
    Any recommendation on that guys I mainly want a dado for just cutting box joints I do all of my dados and rabbits on my router table but box joints if rather do on the TS
    and type of wood mainly pine I try to stay away from oak and the hard stuff because it puts too much strain on my TS and I don't need to go have to buy another lol but I would love too haha don't tell the misses lol


    ~Ninja~
    Your saw will have the easiest time with a 6" dado set, but Vaughn's suggestion for a box joint set is right on the money if you'll mainly be doing box joints with it. HD will most likely only have the Diablo and Avanti dado sets....doubt they'd have a box joint set. Your local Sears might have an Oshlun Box Joint Set ($60). The Diablo set is a solid dado choice if you want to buy it from HD, but I'd advise against waisting $50 for the Avanti set. (Avanti used to be by Freud, but no more..... now they're just run of the mill cheap junk blades). You might find a nice deal on an Oshlun or Avenger set online, or a better price on a Freud, CMT, or Marples set.
    Last edited by scott spencer; 02-14-2014 at 09:49 PM.
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