An RV Electrical Question

I have a RV trailer. I've had it since 2008. The only problem I have encountered so far is a electrical switch for using the hot water tank with electricity verses gas. Actually there are three switches involved. One on the outside of the trailer that you have to turn on whether using electric power or gas. Two inside, one that lights the gas if using gas to heat the hot water tank and one if you are hooked up to electricity. The one inside, for electric power is a paddle type that is placed about 3" above the kitchen counter. Right where things get pushed up against it. It must be a very cheap paddle switch because now for the second time the switch has broken. It will not switch on. The first time this happened I took it to the RV place and had them replace it. $90!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT A RIPOFF!! It takes them about 15 minutes to replace it, but you have to pay for an hour labor at their rate. The switch itself is $14 if I buy it from them, for the same cheap switch.

I wondering why I couldn't buy a regular switch at the BORG an install it. Maybe even forget the paddle type and go with a toggle type. I don't understand the electrical ins and outs of an RV, so not sure if there is some electrical reason a regular light switch may not work. Can anyone enlighten me before I do it and find there was a reason I should not have?

I'd at least pull the switch and see what the ratings are on the existing switch. Is it 12 volt or 120 volt?

It is 120v. But since I took it out of the wall I see it would take some work. The switch itself is the enclosed box. There is a back to put on to enclose it. If I go with an regular switch, I will have to figure a way to mount a box to put it in. The "sheet rock" of coarse is only about 1/4" thick there. I'd need to glue some support to the back of the sheet rock. I'm thinking maybe Liquid Nails would hold the support? Probably would have to replace the receptacle next to it because it is also self enclosed and probably would not fit in an electrical box.

Here are some pictures of the situation.

I agree with Darren. There's nothing special about RV electricity, other than the fact that it might be 12 volt or it might be 120 volt. And of it's 12 volt, a 120 volt switch will work just fine.

The only other concern in this case is the configuration of the switch. It is a single pole single throw (like a standard wall switch) or a single pole double throw (like a standard 3-way switch)? Or maybe something even more complex, like a double pole double throw? If you can pull the switch out of the wall and post a pic of the back of it - especially with the wires still connected to it - I'll bet the gang here can help you figure out the answers to those questions.

paul, if that switch has given you fits before i would look at using a remodel box, a double one and replace both the power outlet, and the switch with a normal one from the borg.. take your old defunck box with you for a idea of sizing but the they look like the old hole would work.. they have ears that fold out to put pressure against the wall to hold in place..

Correct Larry, I remembered those boxes. My next concern is if I could find a box that is shallow enough. It is only 2 1/4" deep there to the outside of the wall. Guess I need a trip to the store. I guess if I have to I could build out from the wall a little with some nice looking wood. But I really don't want "Micky Mouse" it.

Humm, looking at it, a normal light switch only has three connections. One wire not attached to it. This switch has all the hot and common wires attached separately (I can't remember is that is the correct terms, been a while since I have done the electrical stuff). Is that an indication of a different type switch? Like Vaughn is talking about.

Paul Douglass said:

Humm, looking at it, a normal light switch only has three connections. One wire not attached to it. This switch has all the hot and common wires attached separately (I can't remember is that is the correct terms, been a while since I have done the electrical stuff). Is that an indication of a different type switch? Like Vaughn is talking about.

Click to expand...

Looks like a single pole. If you have an ohm meter you can probably check the white pair and see if they are just patched thorough to make installation easier. You should be able to find a shallow box, but may need to use a couple of the metal clips that slip in the hole on each box and bend over the edge of the box to hold them in.

You may have to get a couple of these metal ones and remove the side screws to make a larger box... http://www.lowes.com/pd_141473-427-...t=old+work+electrical+boxes&page=2&facetInfo=

it will require those metal clips above for installation.

here is a source of parts for you paul link

Oh, oh, while i was checking the switch with an ohm meter too see if it was single pole, I checked it to see if it worked. It appears to work, at least with the ohm meter. Maybe I had better figure out how to check the element! Even if it is the element, I will eventually change out the switch, I just don't trust not like the switch they use.

Oh, ya, I checked the fuse.

The saga continues. Looking at my RV again, the switch is working. Checked it both with ohm meter and power tester. So I figure must be the heating element. I uncovered it. I get a reading with an ohm meter across it, but no power reading. I really don't know much about testing the heating elements, changed a few on hot water tanks in houses, but don't know what reading to take. Can any explain to me? I hate to take it in, if it is just replacing an element, the little switch cost me $90, I hate to think what they would charge to change an element!

Paul Douglass said:

The saga continues. Looking at my RV again, the switch is working. Checked it both with ohm meter and power tester. So I figure must be the heating element. I uncovered it. I get a reading with an ohm meter across it, but no power reading. I really don't know much about testing the heating elements, changed a few on hot water tanks in houses, but don't know what reading to take. Can any explain to me? I hate to take it in, if it is just replacing an element, the little switch cost me $90, I hate to think what they would charge to change an element!

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You might check to see if there is a reset/breaker switch on the heater itself. Test the element with the wires disconnected. The guy below does a good diagnostic using a ohm/multi meter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlyStHM9Nr0

Paul I have a trailer and am quiet comfortable with the heater aspect but before i can help guide you can you check the make of the hot water heater in your trailer. There is no question in my mind that given what i have seen you do with your hands there is nothing on the trailer you cannot do with a little help.

The trailers are as basic as they come. You should have a switch panel inside the trailer which has circuit breakers. If you could post the model and a few pics we can get going on it. I dont know how old your unit is but these things usually have a $12 sacrificial cathode in the tank as well. If you have not changed that ever you may want to check it out too while you are at it and at the same time flush the tank.
Do you drain the tank each year for winter? I know this may sound like a stupid question but i dont know where you store this unit.

But before we go there lets get down make and model of your trailer and heater. I have rustled up manuals for mine online even though dealer gave me some i wanted them digitally. They not hard to find. The industry as a whole uses pretty generic systems.

It's a 2008 Artic Fox trailer model 25P. the hot water tank is a Suburban model SW10 DE. It is one I can run on either gas or electric. The circuit breaker is not tripped, and I turned it off and back on to make sure. There is an electrical switch out side where the tank access is that I have to turn on and one inside to ignite the gas if I'm using gas and an paddle switch I turn on if using electricity. I took the paddle switch out of the wall and checked it because it is a cheap thing and I already had to replace it once. It checked out okay. I took the wires off the electrical heating element on the hot water tank and measured it with an ohm meter. It read a short, on my meter and if I under stand it correctly it should read a few ohms resistance. But I don't have a very good meter and I don't know if I could really tell with it if it was a short or a actually there was a few ohms resistance. I going to borrow a better meter tomorrow, hopefully. I haven't figured out the thermostat yet. It is not part of the heating element like a house water heater. I haven't found it on the parts drawing yet. There is also a rest switch on the panel outside where the tank access is. I have never had it trip but I pushed it several times to see if it was tripped. Didn't feel like it was.

I drain the tank every year in the fall and suck remaining water out. Blow out all the water lines for winter. I keep an eye on the cathode and have replaced it a couple times.

I will take some more picture tomorrow and post them.

Pictures

Okay here are some pictures. I can't locate a thermostat. May be on the back side of the water heater or there may be a module somewhere I don't know what they use.


Inside switches



In the access area outside

where it asks you to turn this off and that on does it mention the temperature setting part? usually on the heater it self is the temp setting device

The resistance of the heating element, measured with an ohmmeter, will be near zero. If it were shorted out you would be blowing breakers, but if it is just VERY low, it will heat the water very fast.

It didn't sound like you had an option to run the heater on 12 volts, but if you did, a 120 volt switch would work, but it would have to be a very heavy duty switch since it would take a lot of current at 12 volts.

try this

link fix it you tube

Well, Larry that video answered the thermostat question! Thank you, they are here in this picture, called T-Stat/Hi-limit? One is for 12V and one for 120V.