Dave Hawksford
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I use Hope's tung oil and I order from www.realmilkpaint.com
hu, i am not a turner as yu well know but i think folks turn wet wood then leave it in a paper bag for some time to dry out slowly before finishing it.. so i would ask one of these spinny guys the best way to go from wet wood to a good bowl.. the anchorseal is for the blanks when yu cut them to rough size not for coating after you have your shaped piece..
wet shavings or dry one vaughn?
Whatever's on the floor. Typically they're at about the same moisture content as the blank since they just came from the blank...assuming the bowl was turned in a single shop session. The general idea is for the shavings to be a bit of a buffer and help slow down the drying. If they're a little drier than the roughed bowl, they're fine. If they're a LOT drier, they can end up sucking up water pretty quickly from the bowl, kind of defeating the purpose. (And if the blank is already dry, I don't worry about shavings or even bagging it.)
hu as for using glue for the sealing part to guard against checking i think your supposed to use white glue not yelo glue like tite bond,, white glue is Elmer's or similar
I did try the bag with shavings a few times. Water would run down my arm picking up the bowl a day or two later! Some success just sticking a handful of rough turned blanks in a bag. I'm fixing to spend the day roughing blanks if the back lets me, cut a half dozen or so yesterday evening. A bright spot, been sharpening my own chain and tuning on my chainsaw. The wood was melting in front of it so easily that I rarely used the dogs.
Mold is indeed a major problem here. Probably need to dip or spray the blanks in a mild Clorox solution before bagging. Haven't tried it yet but instant mold is a fact of life. A little better here than where I was but still pretty wet by most standards.
A big thank you to everyone! I do gain something from every post.
Hu
As it happens my stuff went in a tub with a few shavings yesterday, then a few more shavings and a loose covering. I might be wrong but I'm working on the theory that the initial drying is way too fast and I need to slow it down. My thoughts on the inside and outside of roughed blanks cracking is similary to bending metal, the outside wants to crack when it reaches maximum stretch and the inside is in compression so not much obvious happens.