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Thread: Jigsaw Problem

  1. #1

    Jigsaw Problem

    So I've been quietly working away on my Adirondack Chairs and have run into a problem with getting square cuts from my jigsaw.

    It's a Makita JV0600K, about 6 months old. Infinitely variable speed from 1 - 5 (500-3,100spm) I have it set on 4. 4 orbit settings from 'none' to 3. I've tried all settings. I'm using a Bosch t234x blade (variable sized teeth 8-12tpi, .06" thick).

    I am cutting 1.5" pressure treated pine. In this particular instance, I'm trying to cut a dead straight line.

    What's happening is the first 3-4" of cut are pretty good. Then it starts under cutting. After the full 6" or so of cut, it's tilted fully 1/8" towards the inside, undercutting the workpiece.

    I've tried cutting really slow. I am using a shop-made straightedge guide. I THINK I'm holding the jigsaw flat to the workpiece; I'm trying really hard to do that, at least.

    After Googling, I think I may be using the wrong blade. I think I need something thicker w/ fewer teeth, such as a Bosch t144DP (6tpi, .07" thick).

    What says FWW? (other than "Buy a bandsaw!" )

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    S E Washington State
    Maybe not a bandsaw, but if you are trying to cut a straight line, I would suggest a circular saw. Jig saws are not really meant for cutting straight lines, at least not for any distance. My experience has been as you describe. Maybe a new, stiffer blade would help not sure.
    "We the People ......"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    The Gorge Area, Oregon
    Or even a quasi decent handsaw would probably be both faster and easier to hit a line on.

    1.5" thick is on the upper end of where I've found it easy/possible to get a jigsaw to track very well (well.. actually I have trouble getting them to track very well even on thinner stuff but that might be a personal problem )

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Amherst, New Hampshire
    I have the same problem with my expensive Bosch. I only use it when I really, really have to. I have the best luck using the shortest blade possible to cut deep enough.
    Faith, Hope & Charity

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Add another vote for a circular saw or handsaw. I've run into the same issue with my good Bosch jigsaw when cutting thicker lumber.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  6. #6
    Hmmm, interesting ideas. I don't have a quality handsaw. Just an old $12 general purpose Stanley from the Borg. I've been meaning to get a back saw but just haven't gotten around to it.

    I don't think I'll be circular sawing THIS:

    At least without any bleeding!

    I couldn't find my desired t144DP anywhere, so I got a regular, thinner (.06") 6tpi blade. I guess we'll see how it goes!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails jigSaw.png  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Escondido, CA
    A pull handsaw would be my choice. Super thin blade. Super control because it cuts on the pull stroke. And very capable to safely make that part.

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    The Gorge Area, Oregon
    yeah for that you don't need a fancy hand saw. Any old rip filed carpenters "panel" saw would do the job just fine as long as its reasonably sharp. I see them all the time at local estate and yard sales for ~$5 or so and have a (perhaps embarrassingly large - but they're soooo cheeaap and I can't leave them for the saw painters, just can't do it) stack of them in the garage and when I'm not wanting to work on anything else I refurb one or two. I'd vote for rip filed if you only have one, it will crosscut just fine as well but leaves a smidge more blow out on the backside of the cut, whereas a crosscut filed saw is paaaiiinful to rip with. Heck until a hundred and some odd years ago all saws were filed rip (although being hand filed some variation in tooth shape made them perform somewhat a little bit of both). I'm betting you have more invested in jogsaw blades at this point than a saw and a couple off files would cost

    That's one of the nice things about Adirondack style furniture is that its designed to be made by folks with a set of fairly simple carpenter style tools.

    Side note: why are they called "panel" saws anyway.. I've always wondered that!!

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