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Thread: Rust convertor anyone used this stuff before

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    GTA Ontario Canada

    Rust convertor anyone used this stuff before

    Hi All

    Some of you might know i am helping my son at present get his car in order.

    Did some research and came across this product and wondered if anyone had used it before or used a similar product that appears to paint on and convert rust to black oxide.

    This stuff looks almost like PVA glue being painted on. But sure makes sense to do before applying a coat of paint.

    We dont have much rust to deal with but i wanted to give what we have a beating and hopefully stave off the inevitable for a bit longer.

    Dont seem to be available our side of the border but i will call them once i get to find out about its success and see what i can do about that.

    Thanks for any feedback in this regard.
    Last edited by Rob Keeble; 05-29-2014 at 11:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Escondido, CA
    FWIW, Rustoleum makes a rusty metal red primer in a rattle can that works well. Just to give you a price comparison.

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    S E Washington State
    I'm a little skeptical. I did a search on it looking for reviews, and came up blank. It it was as good as the video indicates, I would expect it to make a big splash on the internet.
    "We the People ......"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
    This is probably oxalic acid. I used it years ago when working on a car. It converted the rust to black metal, and left a surface that could be sanded and painted, if it didn't need further help.

    The other member of Mensa, but not the NRA

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Kansas City, Missouri
    I think Roger is right, remember using that on my first truck in the 80's repairing rust holes, same description. It turns black and similar to a painted surface, worked best if you cleaned off as much of the old rust as you can first.

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    just south of the LA/MS border off of I-55
    I have owned three auto body shops here is sunny southern Louisiana. We are enjoying a week of liquid sunshine as I type! All of the magic stuff that seems too good to be true is. From what I have seen you don't get 100% rust conversion regardless of the amount of magic goop you use. In a short time the rust is back. Might take awhile to discover under paint and filler but the rust never stops doing damage under your "repair" or so I have found. Tried it on some galvanized metal that had started to rust too, with identical results.

    Not sure if the stuff being discussed here is exactly the same as I used, I tried a few things but too long ago to remember what all. Always came down to the only real fix was to cut to white metal and repair. That is one issue in my mind, that black is still a form of oxidation. Never accept work sandblasted with black remaining on it for the same reason. Metal has to be blasted to white then immediately protected so you have to know and trust the shop.

    Anybody wanting to play with this stuff might do some homework. If it is the same stuff a thin liquid can be bought at hardware stores by the gallon for far cheaper prices than the smaller quantities, I had to special order though. Might be even cheaper online if there aren't shipping issues. The thin liquids seem to be better than thicker liquids and gels at penetrating through any remaining rust after wire brushing, usually under power. Still won't last in my opinion but does a better job and is cheaper.

    I hate wire brushes and I hate grinding, particularly metal. I wish there was a better solution than grinding to white or air. I haven't found one. Anything that leaves black behind is highly suspect in my opinion.


  7. #7

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    I have used this material in coating the inside of a soil hopper for greenhouse soils. The stuff was applied and then painted over with 2 coats. Ten years later when I left the greenhouse the hopper was well worn but no rust just the black oxide showing where paint had worn off. When the stuff was applied the surface was sanded down but not to a bare metal condition. As I remember at the time it was a little costly but I felt it beat replacing the whole hopper

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
    Phosphoric Acid does a good job of 'killing' rust, and leaves a coating that's rust resistant and can be primed and painted over. You can get a gallon of Phosphoric acid in the paint department at Home Depot, for about five bucks.

    I used it on my garden trailer about five years ago, then painted Dupli-color bed coating over it. No rust yet, and the trailer sits out behind the barn 24/7.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

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