Old dewalt 10" Radial arm saw

larry merlau

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18,741
Location
Delton, Michigan
this is one of the green ones with all the knobs and levers and single phase 10", what is it worth? even the legs and table isnt junk either??/ i passed it up but wil go back tomorrow if its worth what they are asking? from what i remember they are rock solid tools back then.
 
Love my old Red Star. It's rock solid. Sure it doesn't have indexing features or what not, but it's a strong saw.

BTW, Love your TimberDoodle avatar Larry! Great job on the branding!
 
What are they asking? Location often has an impact on price.

Mine is also rock solid. Cleaned up nicely. I don't remember what I gave for it. I am thinking around $200. Was worth it. I made it a dedicated dado machine. I use a SCMS for crosscutting. What did you want to use this for?
 
i can get it for 150 carol and i really dont need another but its built better than the craftsman i now have built in.. if i could have found one of these then the craftsman wouldnt be where it is now. was thinking maybe ken cook could use it or john pollman
 
i can get it for 150 carol and i really dont need another but its built better than the craftsman i now have built in.. if i could have found one of these then the craftsman wouldnt be where it is now. was thinking maybe ken cook could use it or john pollman

Thanks for thinking of me Larry, but I'm pretty satisfied {for the time being} with my {not as} old DeWalt.
Sounds like a good bargain at that price though! :thumb:
 
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The prices on them do vary widely, I've seen them from $50 to $350, though I think $150 to $200 is a more common range. In my opinion they are so far superior to the Craftsman it's not a fair comparison (as a past owner of 2 Craftsman's and current owner of 3 Dewalts). Anyway, the green ones that used 10" blades generally had a 1.5HP (Frame 245 on the motor plate) and it has to be one of the best motors ever hung on an RAS. Certainly hope this works out for you.
 
well got there today and it was still there:) broke one small knob on the dismantle but i got few people that use spinny things that could make me a new one. to try and find a old one to replace it probably isnt very likely.. so this winter i will rework the shop for it.. got a dada head and shaper attachment and guards for that two sets of cutters and several blades but those i dont need havew better blades already even got a blade sharpener for it??/ need to look over the goodie box more but not today. will try to get apicture or two later on.. fred it does have thew 245 motor all knobs were there the one that broke is the one that allows it to rotate 90degrees for rip cutiing.. so its not a necessary knob.. so if anyone is looking for a good craftsman radail arm saw i will have one available... i got all of it today for half price specail sale day today and got a free donut and jug of water too:) if anyone knows of where i can get the little knob that broke i am intersted in getting a red on to replace the broke one..

11532-438x.jpgthe model number is 103038, machine number is 1030, the SN is 335399. can anyone tell me what year this is and where i could get another red knob that goes just to the right of the handle that allows it to make bevel cuts? its got a 1/4" coarse inner thread.
 
Try OWWM.org to track down more information. I found all the information on mine starting here. Mine is a turret model, but you got s great motor in a great casting.

If the red knob is plastic, any number of plastics venders that sell knobs ought to be able to help you. Try usplastic.com.
 
i saw that a guy got a alum. knob from mc master and carr to replace his.. but evry thing on this is almost new condition.. paint, finish on the metal and any where else.. it had been used very little or well taken care of.. will take some major remodeling to get it in the shop setup i now have:( but it should be much better saw than the craftsman i now use.. might even be able to trust the angle cuts on this one.. the detents are even still square and tight.
 
thought i mentioned this but i see i didnt,, that pic is to show the style of what i got and the one i got is as clean as that one with a larger stand with handles.. that was just a pic i found to show the stlye..
 
You did very well, that saw is in much better condition than mine. Those knobs usually break because someone doesn't release the clamp before they pull the knob. That saw is a 1030K, and one of the better ones, the earlier 1030's were round arm saws...the "K" was added to the square arm models. . You can date it by looking at the serial number on the motor. The first 2 digits will be the year, the second 2 the month of motor manufacturer, which should be about the age of the saw unless the motor was swapped out. Curious to me is that blade guard, the discharge is at the operator end, most of this model I've seen have the discharge on the column side. If you tune that saw, you'll find it as accurate as any miter saw, and really able to earn it's keep in the shop. I have a couple of pdf files written by a Dewalt guru named Roger hill. One if a cliff-notes rebuild article which you might not need but has some good info. The second is a tuning approach that gets it dead nuts, and is the ones I've used for 3 different saws. They use a 925 as an example, though they apply to any Dewalt; I'd be glad to e mail them to you if you want to PM me your address. The last tidbit is that if that motor coasts a long time after being turned off (with a blade, more than 30 seconds or so) it probably needs bearings. It's a fairly easy job, and the bearings run about $20. BTW, if you decide that saw isn't for you, I might be persuaded to drive up there to take it off your hands!:thumb:

Edit in: I have a second 1030K I tried to save but couldn't (motor was damaged). Anyway, I'm parting it out (for the postage) and happen to have a BLACK knob from the swivel lock. It's yours if you want it.
 
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