someone help me here please

allen levine

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Location
new york city burbs
I never had a problem learning about diuretics and the ascending loop of Henle, but every after market accessory I purchase, never seems to work or fit right with what I own.
Im waiting a week for the rain and humidity to go away so I can finish the driveway, I decided instead of another day of doing nothing, Ill install the wolverine jig on my grinder.
simple, 6 screws, 1 hour tops, 2 hours tops,

so I discovered the mounting holes on the grinder are in the way of the wolverine jig, seems the base is just too wide and I drill new holes, the base is curved on the top side, so I don't think Ill get a good hole or bolt through straight.

from the pics, you can see the top of the diamond shaped hole on the jig, has to be centered under the wheel.
Even lifting the grinder up, the mounting bolt hole is gone, totally blocked by the inside of the jig.
Im stuck, what can I do?

How can I mount the grinder and set the jig close enough?

maybe theres just some simple solution Im missing, my brain doesn't seem to work great lately.

Im running over to HD to check out other grinders, not to purchase, just to see if between the base and the center of the wheels, theres at least 1.5 inches of space where the wolverine would fit.
Im curious.

Im not ashamed of my lack of knowledge to figure this out. Its frustrating.
 

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With 6" wheels you may need to fabricate a spacer to meet the distance from the center of the wheel to the jig and that would provide the solution for the mounting holes. Mount the grinder to the top side of the spacer and the jig to a bottom base. That's what I did with my 6" grinder. The 'stack' would look like this: A base (piece of plywood works), the grinder spacer, and the jigs along side the spacer mounted to the base. And the grinder on top the spacer.

The distance is around 6-7 inches but as I recall it is relatively critical so everything works. Check your instructions.
 
Allen, I think I have the same set up. I have a 5 inch delta, the base is 5.75 inches wide. I had to make a 2.5 inch riser the same width as the base to get the delta up off the bench. The jig was then able to go under the center of the wheel and the jig was screwed to the bench top not to the base of the delta. Not sure if this is the same as yours but the jig is a wolverine.
 
The real support for the grinder is at the four rubber feet. Those feet are normally removed if you put the grinder and Wolverine parts on a single mounting board. Therefore the pointy part of the base that allows the grinder to be bolted down easily could be removed. At least in theory.

An option I would explore is that your grinder looks good enough to get a premium price on Craigs List. Woodcraft has a "slow speed" (1725 rpm) grinder that is usually on sale for $99 or less - I have one and it works easily with the Wolverine jig. Therefore for the difference in price selling your grinder and buying a new one, (perhaps $20 or so), you could solve your problem.

I won't make any comments about nothing is as easy as it seems in New York city area.
 
Allen, Here's what I would do, get a piece of 10 Ga. plate(1/8") big enough to allow you to make a mounting hole in the front and the rear of the grinder similar to what you show on the sides. (think copy the base and turn it 90º), Then drill the new plate and the base with a pilot hole that will allow you to Tap threads into the grinder base, closer to the center of the grinder, inside of the original mounting holes, then countersink the bottom of the plate and attach the new plate with flat head screws up through the existing base. This will raise the grinder slightly, but I don't think it will be enough to cause a problem. Then you could mount the grinder with the holes in the new base plate.
Probably not a clear explanation of what I am trying to say.:huh:
 
Allen, Here's what I would do, get a piece of 10 Ga. plate(1/8") big enough to allow you to make a mounting hole in the front and the rear of the grinder similar to what you show on the sides. (think copy the base and turn it 90º), Then drill the new plate and the base with a pilot hole that will allow you to Tap threads into the grinder base, closer to the center of the grinder, inside of the original mounting holes, then countersink the bottom of the plate and attach the new plate with flat head screws up through the existing base. This will raise the grinder slightly, but I don't think it will be enough to cause a problem. Then you could mount the grinder with the holes in the new base plate.
Probably not a clear explanation of what I am trying to say.:huh:

Charles, as I recall, he will need to raise the grinder more than slightly to get the centerline of the wheel at the correct height in relation to the jig. Carol and Sayer solved the problem like I've seen others do it. :thumb:
 
Sort of along these lines...

51kawLXUpCL._SY300_.jpg
 
that would have been much easier if I had that base on my grinder. My grinder base comes out to form a v shape and is much wider than that one show In pic.
but I wasn't worried, figured if sayer says he did it, guess who was coming over next weekend for a bbq and wolverine jig installation day?

why cant I have the grinder 7.5 inches off the base? I don't see why not, so after a little lunch, I went back out there, and this is what I have now.
Unbolting the grinder from the base or tightening is tough, but theres 1.5 inches of space, enough that I could stick a wrench in there to hold the bolt.
All lined up, works fine. Im happy. I appreciate the help here as usual, its triggers off something in my brain along with info I get here, its like pooling it all up and then figuring it out.

it was close sayer, I was going to impose on our friendship and ask you to come down here next weekend. (you can always come, but this was a special needs day)

I reground a shape onto the gouge I flattened out on one side, Not perfect, but its usuable now.

if you notice the base of my grinder, it fans out for the bolts, the base is under the wheels, not lilke all the other grinders I noticed the base is 1.5 inches from the wheels.

Its amazing how mechanically disabled I am In the end, I had to put the jig base underneath the spacer a bit.and the board I bolted it too, I cut the edges on an angle to slide the jig in a tad closer..(the grinder was only used for less than 10 minutes, I didn't know there was a wheel dresser hooked into the back of it, still had the plastic on it.

now I just have to learn how to sharpen.

Charlie: I read to take the rubber feet off, and I attached them on the bottom of the base board so it wont slide or move on my benches.(theres a huge used tool market here in NY area, tristate area, jersey, pa, conn, tons of used grinders. that was my next step, figured sell this for 50, get a used one for 75)
 

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Gotcha, I don't have that grinding jig so I was way off base, As I usually am :huh:


no sir Charles, its shared thoughts that help me trigger off things in my own brains. Sometimes a different view helps me understand clearer what I need to do, I always appreciate any help I get here. Id be a fool not to take advantage of the knowledge here, combined 1000s of years of know how.
 
Glad to see you got it figured out and working. Allen. :thumb: I suspect you're going to enjoy sharpening your lathe tools now more than ever. (And sharp tools make for happier turning.)

And Charles, while your suggestions might not have worked for this particular application, at some point in the future someone is likely to read it and it'll trigger a light bulb for them and help solve some completely different problem. ;)
 
nope. could be made with wood, but Im not looking to put 100 things on my to do list anymore.

I have tons of cabinets to make, bedroom furniture, so I treated myself to the wolverine.

(I also got the shelf pin hole guide and a honing guide because Im tired of bleeding fingertips)
 
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