A rust convertor that works.

Rob Keeble

Member
Messages
12,633
Location
GTA Ontario Canada
Some may remember a few weeks back i asked for advice on a product.
Well the one i linked to know one knew about and was pretty expensive.
After lots of recommedations and comments i was skeptical of any. Well after some further research i discovered the white milky like almost weldbond looking stuff that is marketed by a few companies is legitimate. It was made in UK and patented.
So i bought this one from amazon because of reviews and price
uploadfromtaptalk1402869938277.jpg

Here is proof of the pudding.
We took 17 year old knuck and shock mount forks and cleaned them up a bit with airneedles to descale and bit of wirebrushing. Then a clean up dip in evapo rust for very short time just to clean surface without using solvents and then applied the white thick glue like "paint" . not long after it turned black and is drying as i type.
I am thinking this could be a real cool treatment for a rusted plane would look like Japaning :) after.


Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • uploadfromtaptalk1402870267551.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1402870267551.jpg
    53.9 KB · Views: 54
  • uploadfromtaptalk1402870290056.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1402870290056.jpg
    43.1 KB · Views: 51
  • uploadfromtaptalk1402870322036.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1402870322036.jpg
    60.7 KB · Views: 48
Last edited:
Jim I dont know yet. Takes at least 24 hours to cure. My jury is still out. I have plans to take a piece of metal that we are discarding and put the treatment on then let it cure then paint as they say this is a primer too then i will make up a salt bucket and dunk it and see what happens. Its claimed it will stand up to salts so we shall see :) then i will truly be a believer. Time will tell.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Sounds about like the stuff I used to use when cutting out rust from my old truck in HS, we'd use that along with some sheet metal and bondo to patch up the cab corners and rear wheel wells. Of course I didn't know any better at 17 and used aluminum pop rivets as I didn't have a wire welder. A few months later we had rust again, but it was due to the electrolysis between the aluminum rivets and steel. The areas where we used the rust converter were fine.

I'm surprised you didn't setup an electrolysis cleaning tank for those.
 
Top