A Plate around the face

How was that for a quick and short start?!:rofl:

kaplan 2.jpg

This is actually what I mean by the "faceplate" surrounding the components. I had to do three others just this last week so I thought I would show you the set up and progress in jigs and fixtures.
 
Thank you Gentlemen, for the kind words. :)
Let us first consider the options... Components visible or hidden. If they go behind doors they still look like this

RandyB (3).jpg

when the door is opened or retracted. What I would like to share is merely the way I go about dressing up the area around the pretty little faces of all the neatly spaced components. The results will be something like this...

RandyB (5).jpg

Shaz
 
The face plate enhances the entire area, I agree.
The reason I put this thread in "jigs and fixtures" is because there are several jigs necessary to do this job.
With accurate jigs, proper measurements, and good technique you too can make faceplates of your own for fun, friends and profit...Send only $9.99 ........Or I can come to your home or job site for only the cost of air fare and ground transportation, room and board for two days and a large but necessary fee...:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I use 1/4" plywood most of the time, birch, oak, maple, mahogany or whatever matches the unit. I use 3/4" material for the shelves thus I have at least 3/4" between holes when done cutting. Since most components are 17" wide + or - ,I try to accomodate a 20" wide face plate or more when building the unit giving me 1 1/2" on each side.
 
Thanks Rennie, glad you like it.

Let us imagine all components are in place.
We need to measure the hole size that we intend to cover, considering the method we plan to use to mount our faceplate. That may be gone over in another thread. With this thread it is the intent to show some tips on how to cut the holes.
Measuring the components and their placement. I use a story pole for the vertical and one for the horizontal.
My horizontal is usually 18 1/2" - 19" long. That way I can flush it at the left side and mark it on the right end without too large of a piece of wood.
horizontal story pole.jpg As can be seen I mark the exact size with a tick mark then number the line according to the position of the component. When I go to lay it out on the 1/4" plywood I will add 1/8" in the over all width.
 

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This photo is more easily viewable, it is a vertical story pole for the components, which indicates the vertical face, top and bottom, positioned on the shelf. The feet are usually set back so you don't need make allowances for them with the thin 1/4" ply.

Fp and resize (13).jpg

With the vertical pole I have already added 1/8" above and 1/8" below the actual faces and I check each component on both left and right side to know if they are set level. Also, with this story pole I set it at the correct height that the faceplate will be sitting, so that I can reproduce these marks directly onto the faceplate. I am often unclear with my explanations, as when I reread them, I some times scratch my :huh: . Ask if you need clarity.:D
Shaz
 
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With the story poles (jig #1 horizontal and #2 vertical) I can layout the component positions.
Faceplate.jpg.

I mark the vertical marks then figure center and do the width. Then connect the lines.
I will then dropcut the long lines about 1/8" inside the line with the table saw, and then rough cut out the rest with a jig saw.
 
With the holes cut out it is my intention to true the holes with a hand held router. To do this we need a jig( #3 )for the router, for making straight lines and we need a way to hold the work piece in place so as to make our work easier and more professional, (jig #4).
For making straight lines with a router I have this jig here. #3
for routing.jpg
For holding the uncut faceplate I use this jig #4 attached to wooden saw hourses.
for holding the uncut FP.jpg
it looks like this in a simple drawing
drawing of FP jig.JPG
The grey is the saw horse, the green is the 3/4" attachment piece to the sawhorses, the dark blue is a full length connectin piece, the light blue is the edge of a 3/4" piece i will use as a solid base to squeeze clamp the router jig to, the yellow is the top of a 1/4" piece of plywood needed because... when the 1/4" face plate is laid down to cover the red line the yellow 1/4" makes the two pieces flush for clamping on the router jig.:eek:
 

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I set the edges of the 1/4" plywood faceplate on the red edges shown in post 12 and move the sawhorses closer til the yellow 1/4" plywood squeezes the faceplate tight. Then I will screw on the end bumps (shown) to not only hold the sawhorses tight together but to keep the faceplate from moving left to right/ perpendicular to the sawhorses.
faceplateSteveM.jpg

Fp and resize (3).jpg

faceplateSteveM (1).jpg
 
With the jig set to hold the faceplate so as to finish off the holes with the router, this photo is inserted to view the router corner jig, which makes clean up of the holes relatively simple router corner guide.jpg


The jig is clamped in place each time to rout either the left side and the top, or the right side and the bottom for each hole, ie. 4 holes = 8 alignments.corner guide.jpg



Here is a photo of two such face plates, which I should be installing this week.faceplateSteveM (4).jpg
 
Here is the before and after photo of the console/credenza with the adding of the "plate around the face", correctly stated the faceplate around the components.:D
Steve components set (600 x 450).jpg

copy then delete 004.jpg
Thes photos are reproduced in the thread "Client Options"
Thanks for following.
Shaz:) :wave:
 
Hi Shaz, That really is a cool set up you have for doing those! How do the components breath when they are closed in? I always thought you needed to leave the components sell vented so they don't overheat.:dunno:
 
Hi Shaz, That really is a cool set up you have for doing those! How do the components breath when they are closed in? I always thought you needed to leave the components sell vented so they don't overheat.:dunno:
You are correct with the heat issue Ed. That is addressed behind "closed doors". :eek: Actually with this unit I applied a 1/4", ha ha ,(closest thing to 1/4" is baltic birch, a/c ply and mdf) full length back to aid in rigidity to the piece then came in about 2" from all points of attachment in the back and cut out the centers, then I made a few 2" holes laterally for wires and cross ventilation and called it good. The shelves can have hugh gaping:eek: holes in the bottoms too, as the components only have four little feet.:rolleyes: There are ways, ways that are not obvious:rolleyes: to the untrained eyes:rofl: to really butcher the inside for ventilation sake:type: , however those holes need to look planned and pleasing as possible, after all, who wants hugh gaping ugly holes in a 4 and 5 figure entertainment center!:D :rofl: ..Oh Ed, here is a solution to the flat panel I could not send PM...
Shaz
for Ed.JPG
 
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