Damaged arbor thread - Pic attached

Carol Reed

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Finally got down to the innards of the saw and discovered the threads on the arbor where the blade would sit are totally mashed. This old saw wasn't in production long enough to have a chance of finding new parts. So what can be done? I can try to get a picture but things are kind of tight in there until I get enough things apart. Its soaking in Blaster now.

Damaged arbor.jpg
 
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Are (were?) they Acme threads? If so, there's little recourse. I'm guessing a loose retaining nut, and a slipping/spinning blade has worn the metal away?
 
I agree with Jim as to the cause. This is not Acme thread. This is the usual 5/8" table saw arbor, maybe fine thread? Haven't gotten that far yet. I have taps and dies. I'll try to get a picture.
 
Wow and i thought i like a challenge. :) My first thought was use a die to try clean up threads and see if it helps. But i would think the arbor has also been hardened so dunno. Just for info if you dont have the die a die that size on its own will set you back quite a bit, i recently priced a tap of 14mm and here it was $40 before tax. So i changed my plan.

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...This is not Acme thread. This is the usual 5/8" table saw arbor, maybe fine thread?...

If it's 'fine thread' then it's not the usual TS arbor. Delta, Powermatic, Jet, Grizzly, Shop Fox, and who knows how many others, all use an Acme thread in their contractors saws and cabinet saws. Been a long time since I've owned a Craftsman saw, but as I recall, they used Acme threads, too.
 
Hmm, well I'd take it apart and measure everything to see if there was another arbor that I could make work. Might require replacing the bearings and pulleys as well to make it all go back together but if you can find the right parts it may not be all that bad price wise (less than $100 I think.. if you're lucky anyway).

Failing that, you're basically stuck building up the arbor. The redneck way would be to use devcon (or jb weld) and carefully file to diameter - I wouldn't expect that to last a really long time. Better would be if there was a machine shop that could lay a few beads around it and then mill it back to the correct diameter. That will probably cost more than the saw is worth.

Or find another saw with a dead motor and a good arbor and .. well.. the rest is obvious (and then you'll have another saw body to .. make a drum sander? a router table? an I dunno what..).
 
Uhm, check your dead saw pile? You've been collecting iron for a reason.:rofl:
After using them, I prefer rethreaders/thread chasers and thread files to a die. (may cut more metal off and have issues) I have also done the buy multiple nut trick and use a couple nuts to bring the threads in line, then use a brand new nut when done. (arbor nuts used to be sold at several hardware stores, along with tool brushes) Ace hardware was the one I had better luck seeing that stuff in.
Check CL, for another dead parts saw.
 
I'm going to bet a small doughnut that trying to reform the threads here won't yield salubrious results because there likely won't be enough meat left to properly seat the blade. If they are seriously chewed up you have the problem that the blade won't sit centered on the arbor so it will be off balance. Even if it seats against the flange if it can slip up/down because the bore has slop against the arbor it still seems like a problem.

Edit: looking at the picture now...

Put a blade on it and hold it against the flange and try to move it up/down or side/side and see how much it moves.. If there is any movement that's not great... and you'll need to build that area up somehow.
 
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I may be way out in left field as usual, but are you sure there were threads in that area? Could be just some scoring due to loose blade or washer spinning?

here's a google find photo{from someone replacing their old with a new} showing what I'm referring to...again, it's me, left field and all, just blabbering on :D
RTS (3).JPG
 
@Ryan - good idea, but it will have to wait until later this week.

@Ken - Ooooh, that looks nice. I wonder how 'standard' those things are and I wonder how big the second mortgage would have to be. Where did you find that picture? Is there more to be learned at that site, whatever it is?

I sent a picture to a friend with much machining experience. He thinks it is just galling and can be fixed with a file. If I can get it out, I will send it to him so he tell me what can be done.
 
@Ken - Ooooh, that looks nice. I wonder how 'standard' those things are and I wonder how big the second mortgage would have to be. Where did you find that picture? Is there more to be learned at that site, whatever it is?
Google image search (http://www.google.com/insidesearch/features/images/searchbyimage.html) claims its probably from here :D
http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop Projects/rebuild-table-saw-1.html
and also found me a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPcP0jNUBhk

Looks like much cheaper than you might think "The price is attractive too: $18.50 for the arbor and $15 each for the bearings, making this a very cost effective repair. It turned out that the bearings were not in stock, so I ordered those from another source. That was a better deal anyway, since I got those for $2.77 each plus shipping." - nice! I suspect if you can find an arbor with the right bearing-bearing and bearing-flange spacing you might be able to make it work with the right bearing replacement... I wouldn't be very surprised if a lot of the imports ended up with unsurprisingly similar dimensions to some of the older tools around most of these common parts...

Oddly this woodgears link was higher on the result list :huh: http://woodgears.ca/saw_arbor/

I sent a picture to a friend with much machining experience. He thinks it is just galling and can be fixed with a file. If I can get it out, I will send it to him so he tell me what can be done.

That would be a lot better than hoped for! Although if you could find replacement parts for $25 like that fellow did, well...!! Determining if they would fit (or could be made to fit) might be .. interesting...
 
Ryan found it, but I thought I'd through in how I did...

I Googled 'table saw arbor' then selected 'images', found an interesting photo and clicked on it which enlarges it and add's some info. In that info is a 'visit page' button which allows/takes you to the location of said photo...I included a capture shot in-case some folks might not have known.
View page.jpg

Also found this {snag/copy/paste} from here....might help...keep in mind he's referring to steps related to delta saws, but should be very similar to most I would think....
LJ Steps.jpg

Hope all works out for you!
 
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Got a much closer look at the shaft yesterday. Looks like the blade spun a few times and galled the surface. Don't think it is too serious. Still have to try a blade on it and see how well it sits. Having seen the picture of a new arbor helped me to see what I was looking at. So thanks, guys, for helping in that area. There is that unthreaded area for the blade to ride, which is what is marred. The threads running up to that area are in fine shape. Still need to get it out of there, especially with all this bearing talk going on. The shaft turns smoothly but a little stiff. May have little to no lube left there and no way to get any in there. More excavation, or is it surgery, is in order. :rolleyes:
 
Carol,
I know i'm late to the party, but if there's a gouge worn where the blade sits on the arbor, you could do just fine filling it with epoxy. Most all of the blade support is provided by the flanges as the arbor nut presses them against the blade. As long as the shaft effectively centers the blade, you should be fine. I had a saw once that had the arbor threads go all the way up to the flange instead of having an unthreaded section near the flange. Centering the blade wasn't a big deal, but getting my stacked dado set centered on the threaded portion of the arbor was a major cause for drinking, which is generally not recommended when operating machinery or attempting exacting work.
Maybe you can file the high spots down, fill the voids with JB Weld (and file it flush), then see how it works. I'm optimistic that you don't really have much of a problem with that arbor.
paulh
 
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