Build thread : Cedar Blanket Chest for a Client an its got a couple Nice twists to it

Important Note : Do not set your Inlay like I did an get rain that drops the temperature more than 10 degrees
Well I removed all the tape an had seen that my inlay went off some due to the temperature change before it was dry



Repair Inlay 01.jpg

An now I need to repair these areas

Repair Inlay 01-1.jpg

Its not hard to do Just V it open some an remove the glue an make up some Putty with the dust from the wood with thick CA an mix it quick an fill in the areas then sand it down some

Repair Inlay 02.jpg

If it looks off some don't worry it will be alright once the finish is on, some areas will be darker than others, next clean out the stars an make a wedge shape for the liquid inlays, the wedge shape will help hold the inlay without it coming out

Repair Inlay 03.jpg

Here is a close up of the wedge inward of each star I'm talking about

LI 01.jpg

Once you are for sure everything is good make up your liquid Inlay, I'm using Blue Pearl an Stone flakes that the client likes an then I pored each area

LI 02.jpg

Now let it cure so back to the Lid for now sanding again
 
Well after I got the Inlay sanded I started to make a Poor Mans Dovetail Spline Jig. But first, I set the blade

setting.jpg

I took the extra pieces I milled with the sides an need to cuts some 45 degrees on them I have enough for 2 joints, I used my Sled to do this

Test Pieces 01.jpg

Next glue them up an I used corner clamps to hold them

Test Pieces 02.jpg

In the next part I will make the Poor Mans Dovetail Spline jig
 
Poor Mans Dovetail Spline Jig

I'm going to show how I make a Dovetail Spline jig, but I'm making 2 of them. First one is for the main dovetail an the second one is for a Inlay Dovetail

First I pulled out a scrap piece of Baltic Burch Plywood 3/4 inch

I'm going to making (2) X 7 Inch rips on the scrap

Jig for Dovetail Splines 01.jpg

Next on each piece I'm going to make (2) 7 inch cuts an (1) 11 inch piece

Jig for Dovetail Splines 02.JPG

Next on the 7" x 7" pieces I cut a 45 degree angle on one side,

Jig for Dovetail Splines 03.jpg

As you can see in the picture there is a recess cut across the grain on the 11" piece. Here is why all corners on the project theses jigs are made for are sharp corners so I cut a recess in the center across the board I only went in about 1/8"

Jig for Dovetail Splines 04.jpg

Next on the C/L I marked out for (2) 1" holes these hole are 3 1/2" from the recess on each side

Jig for Dovetail Splines 05.jpg

Next thing I did I found some scrap Oak an cut some 45s for support latter in the thread

Jig for Dovetail Splines 06.JPG

Now for the best alignment for this jig is to take it to your project an clamp the 7" X 7" pieces to the corner top an bottom with the long end of the 45s touching the wood , bring it close to the corner

Jig for Dovetail Splines 07.jpg

While it is clamped check an see if the top plat sits nicely on the 45s, if not adjust until it does. On mine it looks great so I took the pieces off an put some wax paper on the corner an reattached the pieces

Jig for Dovetail Splines 08.jpg

Double check fit-up an adjust as needed, If you are ready put glue on the 45s an set your top plate on an brad nail it in place

Jig for Dovetail Splines 09.jpg
Jig for Dovetail Splines 10.jpg

Continued in the next part
 
Now next thing to do is get your 45 degree pieces of scrap an glue then in place an brad nail them in place this is the added support

Jig for Dovetail Splines 11.JPG

Jig for Dovetail Splines 12.jpg

Now that I am making 2 of these I will make the other one on the other corner same way as this one

Jig for Dovetail Splines 13.JPG

Jig for Dovetail Splines 14.jpg

Now I leave them in place until dry
So be back tomorrow
 
Well it time to finish the jig, the next step is to find what size of my guide bushing since my router bits are Half inch shank so I am using 5/8 bushing , so I got out my 3/8 inch strait bit and set it up in my router table

Jig for Dovetail Splines 15.jpg

Jig for Dovetail Splines 16.jpg

As you can see I cut in a small run from one end to the first hole it helps me for setup an clean out when I cut the Dovetail Spline areas

Jig for Dovetail Splines 16-1.jpg

Next thing I did is set the bit height to the highest it needs to be. I set my digital gauge to 0 an lowered the bit to 1/4" above the table then set my center point with the fence. Next I ran 1 grove through the holes an turned it around an did the same I was off by 1/32 from center so not to bad, I raised it an did another passes until I reached my max height

Now I'm at the max height I need to make it wider so I marked where my fence is an moved the fence in small increment's until I needed to where I need to be for the bushing size

Jig for Dovetail Splines 18.jpg
Jig for Dovetail Splines 17.jpg

Now here is what the jig looks like after cutting the grove for the bushing

Jig for Dovetail Splines 19.jpg

Next I got out one of the test pieces an I set up the height of the bit an clamped my jig to the test piece, time to find out if its going to work for my project

Jig for Dovetail Splines 20.jpg

Next I do my cut , this is the first time the jig is used so I'm also cutting the jig to for the router bit an it looks good

Jig for Dovetail Splines 22.jpg

I removed the jig an checked my test piece

Jig for Dovetail Splines 23.jpg

No blow outs an nice clean cuts so this jig is ready for the project, but before I do anything I mark the top an size of the dovetail bit used for this jig. I plan on keeping this jig for future projects

Jig for Dovetail Splines 24.jpg

Now you can make this jig for strait bits also for splines for your bigger projects or an size of dovetail bit. Since I made 2 of these I will be making a inlay dovetail with the other one for future projects

I was going to cut in the Dovetail Splines for the chest but rain is moving in on me, so I will wait until I have a full day to cut the Dovetails an Splines an get the Splines glued in the same day :thumb:
 
Well its time to cut the Dovetails for the splines

First I clamped down the carcass so it don't slide round on you when you start the cutting

Setup for cut 1.jpg

Next I did some math so where the Splines are going to be places from the top to bottom
2" then 4 3/8 then 4 3/8 then 4 3/8 then 2 inches to the bottom nice an even
Important Note Write it down

Setup for cut 2.JPG

Now mark out the carcass an make strait lines , on my jig I marked out center for the cut, so it makes it easier to line up with the lines on the carcass

Setup for cut 4.jpg

Setup for cut 3.jpg


Now make all your cuts

Important Note Do not do the cuts unless you have 8 hours with very little change in weather
See in next thread
 
Well I got all my cuts done an looking good

Cut is done 1.jpg

Cut is done 2.jpg

Now to make the Splines, Here I'm using Walnut. The dovetail bit I used was a 7 degree bit so I set my table saw blade to 83 Degrees an did a test cut

Spline 1.jpg

I checked the Spline on my test piece an it looked sweet so I checked the Carcass an so its all good :thumb:

Spline 2.jpg

Time to get them glued in an I'm using Titebond 2

Spline 3.jpg

Spline 4.jpg

Once there all glued I time to let tem dry an with no pressure on an of the splines so I set the carcass up on 2 boards

Spline 5.jpg

So hopefully back tomorrow but got an appointment an it might rain tomorrow
 
Well I started cutting the Dovetail Splines with a flush cut saw an chisels, then started to sand them down by hand with a block an 320 grit sandpaper

Finish Spline 1.jpg

Finish Spline 2.jpg

An here is a picture with some mineral sprits on the dovetail splines

Finish Spline 3.jpg

Been talking with the client for the past 2 days an found out this one is going overseas to Italy an it needs to be ready by the end of the month, also waiting on Sentry Safes to come over today to take measurements of the inside an do a templates for a shallow safe. :bang: So I'm on hold until they get here an I hate waiting on some one that can't answer there phone :cry:
 
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