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Thread: veneer glue line trouble

  1. #1
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    veneer glue line trouble

    this panel has a glue line coming threw after being coated for sometime, and it doesnt seem to want to be hidden.. have tried to dye it and it wont accept color ,yet alone being so small.. this is a ply panel and i think the veneer has either opened up some or i might have sanded it to much but barely sanded it.. this is cabinet grade cherry ply not the china birch stuff.. the coating thus far is a double light coat of toned shellac, am going to top coat with lacquer and is now getting a double light coat of lac sealer.. if you stand on one side you dont see it but if you stand on the other side the light shows it in Florescent light.. being so thin its probably not gonna be picked up by most folks..

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    any ideas of how to fix it ? hopefully after its done being coated with lac sealer,,
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  2. #2
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    I hate the board splits. I usually will not put a piece like that on anything that is a front panel. One of those things that you need to V cut the glue out and fill before staining. Or you can veneer over it, which would be the quickest solve.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  3. #3
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    What did you use for glue? Titebond, etc., tends to creep with age, and will sometimes bleed up at joint lines (That's why I use either hide glue or resin-based for veneers and laminating).

    Dave gave you the solutions for your problem., and the re-veneering will likely be the best way to go.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  4. #4
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    like i said earlier i didnt glue this up its cab quality cherry veneer ply.. and reveneering is out of the question.. thanks for the advice thought maybe there was a way to paint it out some after the sealer is down..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  5. #5
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    Dave has a good solution for you - notching down, filling, etc.

    When I've had an oops show up on a panel glue-up after sealer, whether veneer or solid, I carefully scrape the coating off, then apply dye to match as close as possible.

    For veneer, especially when doing larger panels with multiple pieces of veneer, I always use plastic resin glue. If there happens to be a hairline seperation, the glue will take dye pretty well.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
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  6. #6
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    I agree with Dave V cut the glue out an fill it an there is color pens out there where you can shade it in. When gluing in panels yourself use the cheapest masking tape you can find to hold the joint tight so this wont happen, just make sure you cover the whole joint here is a picture of a table top I did an I veneered on to a thin wood panel to be used a bigger project there table tops

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    https://www.facebook.com/BgCouger

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  7. #7
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    Larry if you do the V cut take some fine sand paper and sand a cherry board then mix the dust with the clear sealer. Make it thick so 2 passes over the V cut will fill it. This should give you a good color to work with.
    Jarrod love's this lil trick.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  8. #8
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    If I understand Larry right, this is some cherry plywood, not a plywood panel that he veneered with cherry. Many of the solutions so far assume he veneered the panel, and could fix it with another layer of veneer. I don't think that is an option.

    Since it is cherry, you have a double zinger - Roy's color pens may be a perfect match now, but a few years from now the wood (cherry) will change colors differently than the color pens. The perfect match today will not match in the future.

    Mixing sanding dust with sealer to fill a crack is a trick that I use a lot, but all of the sanding dust is essentially end grain, so will finish darker than the face grain veneer. Therefore I sometimes cheat and put some maple dust with the native wood dust (cherry dust), to lighten the filler.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  9. #9
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    Good idea with the maple Charley. Another mixture larry you can use are the powder pigments. Maybe 1/3rd cherry and 2/3rds maple.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  10. #10
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    I cannot offer you a solution, its way above my pay grade.
    I would change lumber yards because that is unacceptable, on a 100-130 dollars piece of plywood.(I pay 130 bucks for cherry ply, one side)
    Human Test Dummy

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