Rubbing out a lacquer finish methods

When I've done a rubbed out finish, I usually start with fine pumice, soapy water to spritz it and a soft cloth like t-shirt material. I wait a week or so to begin the process. After getting it the way I want it in that step, I switch to rottenstone and repeat the rubbing with soapy water and a cloth. Now, I have also done the rottenstone step using a 6" buffer like you use for car polish. After I'm satisfied with the rubout, I use the buffer to apply and buff out a polish.
 
the ones i have trouble with are the one that i toned to match the others and used a different gun, so got worse pattern and need to make them right. i took and used some 400 abranet anf then some 1000 mirlorn and think that will fix them.. what is this mirlon lube will something else work? mineral spirits?
 
to add to the fire.

A friend uses Howard's Feed N Wax with gray pads. Smells really good, too. Used to be a product called WoolWax. No longer available. I used to give a bottle of Howard's when I delivered a piece and a short instruction sheet on how to care for their new furniture. Howard's is available at HD, etc.
 
...i took and used some 400 abranet and then some 1000 mirlon and think that will fix them.. what is this mirlon lube will something else work? mineral spirits?

Larry, I get things flat and smooth with 400 - 600 abrasive, as you did. Then one of the ways I refine the finish (smooth the scratches) is with dry mirlon (light use, so I don't bother with lube). But I haven't seen 1000 Mirlon. The Red/Maroon "very fine" is pretty coarse - about P360 grit. The next is dark gray "ultra fine" at about P1500 grit, but I jump to the light gray "micro fine" at about P2000.

I use water base lacquer and other finishes, which I can rub out dry within an hour or two of spraying. However if I want to wet rub, with rubbing compounds or wet abrasives, the finish has to be fully cured first - officially 5 days at 70 degrees. I don't know how this translates to solvent lacquer, since I haven't used that in years.
 
Very interesting with everyone recommending all these extra fine grits of sand paper and different waxes and polishes when all I ever use now are the purple 3M foam sanding blocks in the fine and the X-fine. The finishes come out silky smooth with no rubbing out needed.

Larry I would just sand the pieces your having trouble with and hit them with a thinned down coat and not rub anything out.
 
Larry, I get things flat and smooth with 400 - 600 abrasive, as you did. Then one of the ways I refine the finish (smooth the scratches) is with dry mirlon (light use, so I don't bother with lube). But I haven't seen 1000 Mirlon. The Red/Maroon "very fine" is pretty coarse - about P360 grit. The next is dark gray "ultra fine" at about P1500 grit, but I jump to the light gray "micro fine" at about P2000.

I use water base lacquer and other finishes, which I can rub out dry within an hour or two of spraying. However if I want to wet rub, with rubbing compounds or wet abrasives, the finish has to be fully cured first - officially 5 days at 70 degrees. I don't know how this translates to solvent lacquer, since I haven't used that in years.
the mirlon is the 1500 i think ,, light gray, charlie, and i had done the sand between coats and usually come out fine but this time with the other gun layer i got some orange peel and so i am getting that gone..



Very interesting with everyone recommending all these extra fine grits of sand paper and different waxes and polishes when all I ever use now are the purple 3M foam sanding blocks in the fine and the X-fine. The finishes come out silky smooth with no rubbing out needed.

Larry I would just sand the pieces your having trouble with and hit them with a thinned down coat and not rub anything out.

alan, the main dresser cases came out great but the drawer frnts on one set are the trouble makers and i also use the ultra fine sponge pads from woodworker supply for the touch up and a very light touch on the last coats and they are ready sometimes just a paper bag will do it..
 
Larry the lube works about the same as a soft rag that has lacquer thinner on it but not quit dry just enough to loosen the top film of the finish and smooth it out. It has some softners but. I use that to briskly burnish or "rub out" a finish when needed.
 
to add to the fire.

A friend uses Howard's Feed N Wax with gray pads. Smells really good, too. Used to be a product called WoolWax. No longer available. I used to give a bottle of Howard's when I delivered a piece and a short instruction sheet on how to care for their new furniture. Howard's is available at HD, etc.

what does the Howard's have over other waxes? i am thinking of sending some along with these carol.. i have used minwax paste wax in the past but its almost gone now..
 
As far as protection, I think wax is wax. But Howard's is a liquid wax compared to Minwax. Easy for the client to apply. Easy to shine up after a few minutes. Less work than Minwax. And it smells better!

My clients always loved it and it assured them their piece was special. I gave them a bottle and told them it was especially for their new piece to help keep it looking like new for a really long time. They would come back and say how they used it on their 'other' furniture and how much better it was. Perception is reality and there is no reason you can't get that to work 'for' you.
 
As far as protection, I think wax is wax. But Howard's is a liquid wax compared to Minwax. Easy for the client to apply. Easy to shine up after a few minutes. Less work than Minwax. And it smells better!

My clients always loved it and it assured them their piece was special. I gave them a bottle and told them it was especially for their new piece to help keep it looking like new for a really long time. They would come back and say how they used it on their 'other' furniture and how much better it was. Perception is reality and there is no reason you can't get that to work 'for' you.

well anything to help out the little people is a good thing:)
 
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