Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: mixing oils failure?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    new york city burbs
    Posts
    10,188

    mixing oils failure?

    I needed some dishes/small platter to hold some gifts.
    I spun them out of blocks of sapele.
    The first coat of Formsby tung oil mix, went on perfect. Put a second coat on, the sapele really soaks it up.
    After the second coat, I intended on letting it cure for a week, then spraying it with some can lacquer, just for glossy look.
    I didn't like the few sanding marks that seemed to show a lot more in the center after I oiled it.
    I sanded out the center again and this time used Danish oil.
    Its been a week, the coat of Danish oil on top of formsby tung oil is not drying properly.
    Is it time to abandon them? Any tricks or did I make a big boo boo.
    Human Test Dummy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    somewhere east of Queen Creek, AZ - South East of Phoenix
    Posts
    8,529
    allen i could be wrong but i believe. the tung oil is actually tung oil finish and is a poly not really an oil. if that is the case thhe danish oil can't soak into the wood since the poly is acting as a sealer.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    St. Mary's, Georgia
    Posts
    398
    Don is correct Forbs Tung oil has a poly mix to it, so either way you can't use Lacquer at all . You can sand it down some an use Shellac dewaxed an then use your Lacquer
    https://www.facebook.com/BgCouger

    If you are going to make something nice, make it with a statement, use quality an do it right the first time

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Outside the beltway
    Posts
    5,259
    Al, you can stay with the tong oil, ? Mix it 50/50 with DNA apply thin coats. Brush each coat till tac after 6 hrs add another coat. Light sand between coatings. About 4 coats then 2 to 3 coats straght tong oil mixture, sand between coats with 320. Brush each coat till it starts to tac. Final coat you can leave or buff out. I can explai b the procedure we use to buff if you want to go that route.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Wapakoneta, OH
    Posts
    611
    I'm thinking it might be a different problem. According to Flexner, Formby's Tung Oil finish is simply a wiping varnish. I looked at the MSDS and it's 78% thinners, the balance presumably varnish. If by "danish oil" you refer to Watco Danish Oil (the most popular) that is also simply a wiping varnish (it's 75% thinner according to the MSDS). Neither have oil, except what was cooked into the varnish. So for the Watco (again, assuming that's what it is) to not be curing, it may just be bad.....the varnish in the mix may be past it's life. But maybe I should ask: was this Watco, a home brew, or something else? One trick that might be worth trying: the curing of these finishes is a reaction with oxygen after the thinners evaporate, so maybe just a little breeze blowing across it may make it cure. If not, you may be stuck trying to remove it, though I'm not sure that will be a sanding operation.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    new york city burbs
    Posts
    10,188
    watco, and for the last 3 days Ive had it sitting on my recumbent exercise bike under the ceiling fan, running it on slow to keep the air moving.
    (I don't use the bike, might as well be useful for something), its a bit more dry, but Ive never waited so long for any oil to dry.
    I wont topcoat it with laquer, if it ever dries, Ill use some wipe on poly.......if it doesn't dry.....oh well, its only wood I guess.
    dave, yours is a perfect process to start with, but I think I missed the bus with this already.
    Human Test Dummy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Escondido, CA
    Posts
    5,172
    Allen, if it doesn't dry to your satisfaction, here is an opportunity to use shaped scrapers to remove the finish. Use two jam chucks to pin the bowl between centers on the lathe. Turn it very slowly and scrape off the finish. Fortunately you got a lathe that turns real slow when you want it to.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	shaped-scraper-set.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	32.7 KB 
ID:	85617

    And learning to use the scrapers and keep them sharp is a great skill to have. It is one of those 'why didn't I do this sooner' things.
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Outside the beltway
    Posts
    5,259
    Al take some Lacquer thinner and wipe it down , start over it will go faster in the long run.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    ABQ NM
    Posts
    30,020
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hawksford View Post
    Al take some Lacquer thinner and wipe it down , start over it will go faster in the long run.
    That'd be my suggestion, too. I suspect the Watco stuff is getting old. And Fred is right...both products are simple wipe-on varnishes.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

    workingwoods.com

Similar Threads

  1. best penetrating oils
    By Frank Fusco in forum Off Topic Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 12-12-2012, 12:02 AM
  2. Whats the difference with these oils?
    By Tom Baugues in forum Finishing School
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 08-13-2011, 01:02 AM
  3. successful failure
    By Frank Fusco in forum Lathe Project Showcase
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 08-08-2011, 10:23 PM
  4. Non-toxic oils or waxes for finishing bowls
    By Dawson Mossman in forum General Woodturning Q&A
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-29-2008, 12:29 AM
  5. Mixing Shellac
    By Aaron Beaver in forum Finishing School
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-08-2006, 07:12 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •